The Oxygen Sensor Game
#21
Hello from Germany everyone,
long-time reader, first time poster here. In the last few years, I have just been sponging off info from this message board here and it's been very helpful. Never had anything to contribute, though, but finally I have something...
After failing TÜV (the local version of the MOT) because of bad emissions readings, I finally had new oxygen sensors installed in June of 2022. I bought two of the FAE 77185 sensors (european cars only need two). FAE is a Spanish manufacturer, the sensors are fairly easy to find on eBay and were quite cheap, actually. I had checked several British sellers of Jaguar parts (including one that I had bought other items from several times before) and had noted that they were selling sensors with this parts number, too, so I thought they must be alright ... And the best thing is, they did the trick, so my car is on the road still, running well with normal fuel consumption. It's been over a year now and no problems.
The FAE 77185 is a titanium sensor, 12mm diameter, with four wires that are 730mm in length (so 6mm longer than the original NTK OTD3J-5B1).
First-hand experience is always good to have, so here you go.
Have a great week-end, everyone!
Thomas
long-time reader, first time poster here. In the last few years, I have just been sponging off info from this message board here and it's been very helpful. Never had anything to contribute, though, but finally I have something...
After failing TÜV (the local version of the MOT) because of bad emissions readings, I finally had new oxygen sensors installed in June of 2022. I bought two of the FAE 77185 sensors (european cars only need two). FAE is a Spanish manufacturer, the sensors are fairly easy to find on eBay and were quite cheap, actually. I had checked several British sellers of Jaguar parts (including one that I had bought other items from several times before) and had noted that they were selling sensors with this parts number, too, so I thought they must be alright ... And the best thing is, they did the trick, so my car is on the road still, running well with normal fuel consumption. It's been over a year now and no problems.
The FAE 77185 is a titanium sensor, 12mm diameter, with four wires that are 730mm in length (so 6mm longer than the original NTK OTD3J-5B1).
First-hand experience is always good to have, so here you go.
Have a great week-end, everyone!
Thomas
The following 3 users liked this post by Emerald_Dream:
#22
#26
#28
If youre doing the rear sensors, having small hands and some long needle nose pliers helped to manipulate things around some. Still a pain though. The clips for the wiring harness on top of the trans bellhousing at the very back were a pain too. I had a piece of slightly bent rebar laying around with very dull, rounded ends. I was able to VERY carefully wedge it between the block/head and the firewall to slowly push the wire harness backward out of the spring clips. Do this at your own risk though.
#29
The rear O2 sensors pigtail clip can cut you on the bell housing split
To get more room it is like starter motor upper mount bolt removal
Remove the transmission cross member while in is on a jack , take 2 bolts on one side all the way off and the other side 2 bolts unthreaded until jjust before bolt removal , this keeps the assembly located
lower the jack slightly and it will pivit the engine assembly down giving some room up top at the engine firewall
There are some precautions to doing this like having the hood open and other I will have to recall
To get more room it is like starter motor upper mount bolt removal
Remove the transmission cross member while in is on a jack , take 2 bolts on one side all the way off and the other side 2 bolts unthreaded until jjust before bolt removal , this keeps the assembly located
lower the jack slightly and it will pivit the engine assembly down giving some room up top at the engine firewall
There are some precautions to doing this like having the hood open and other I will have to recall
Last edited by Parker 7; 12-21-2023 at 11:19 PM.
#30
And all this is to loosen the wire from the bellhousing? How about I loosen the CO2 sensor, disconnect the connector under the wiper motor, cut the wire at the connector and pull the wire out. I then can install the new CO2 sensor and connect it at the opposite end and simply zip tie it down. Way too much work just to secure a wire. What are your thoughts?
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Parker 7 (12-21-2023)
#32
The 2 / O2 sensor 8 wires / bundles ( 2 sleaved bundles ) simply pulls out of the clip direction fwd or aft from a C shaped clip that stays attached to the engine split
To drop the rear of the engine may not be necessary
There is a edge on the clip that can cut into the wires or hand , this was subject to a TSB , coming
There are 2 of the with one covering the connectors relocation
And this one 3rd
05-1-11a (jagrepair.com)
Don't cut any wires as that could be a dead end in the process of becoming and becoming one with your engine regulation
Don't get frustrated and twist the fragile O2 sensor pigtails
Anti seize on the O2 sensor threads but be careful to no get on sensor bulb
Crush washers , mine were missing on previous owner
!7 mm hex size on the sesnor . 12 mm thread size
I have some pics from someone else ( either the original location or the modified ) on an old computer , Mine was the easy connector location VIN # 755xxx
Ask Questions
To drop the rear of the engine may not be necessary
There is a edge on the clip that can cut into the wires or hand , this was subject to a TSB , coming
There are 2 of the with one covering the connectors relocation
And this one 3rd
05-1-11a (jagrepair.com)
Don't cut any wires as that could be a dead end in the process of becoming and becoming one with your engine regulation
Don't get frustrated and twist the fragile O2 sensor pigtails
Anti seize on the O2 sensor threads but be careful to no get on sensor bulb
Crush washers , mine were missing on previous owner
!7 mm hex size on the sesnor . 12 mm thread size
I have some pics from someone else ( either the original location or the modified ) on an old computer , Mine was the easy connector location VIN # 755xxx
Ask Questions
Last edited by Parker 7; 12-22-2023 at 01:19 AM.
#33
Great! Thanks for the sound advice. What did you mean by "dead end in the process of becoming and becoming one with your engine regulation"? If you cut the wires near the CO2 sensor that could cause a short circuit and mess with the ECU? I guess I didn't think of that one. Unless you cut them individually. I will give a shot your way though. I still say it would make things easier to remove the wiper motor. The connections are buried behind it.
#34
On mine there is a small bracket attacked to the rear engine block for the connectors
On yours ir may be easier to remove your bracket
If you cut the wire to pull through a new sensor the wires can not be soldered as galvanized wire so would not except solder so that part would be shot
Removing the wiper motor is not bad and neither is the whole wiper assembly ( black rectangle box ) , I did that before for the wiper system but did not have to for the O2 sensors
The O2 sensor pigtails can be accessed on the cars right side as they go down and really the only side you can see the clip on the bell housing seam to hold the pigtails
Is yours right hand steering ?
On yours ir may be easier to remove your bracket
If you cut the wire to pull through a new sensor the wires can not be soldered as galvanized wire so would not except solder so that part would be shot
Removing the wiper motor is not bad and neither is the whole wiper assembly ( black rectangle box ) , I did that before for the wiper system but did not have to for the O2 sensors
The O2 sensor pigtails can be accessed on the cars right side as they go down and really the only side you can see the clip on the bell housing seam to hold the pigtails
Is yours right hand steering ?
Last edited by Parker 7; 12-22-2023 at 10:47 AM.
#36
If you look at your O2 sensor connectors on the car side , the car side will have 4 wires with 3 being the same color and the 4th being different
This 4th wire determines the correct sensor connector location
This from the pic in above post # 27
Blue is for bank 1 aft
Red is for bank 2 aft
Green is for bank 1 fwd
Brown is for bank 2 fwd
If you are not replacing the fwd sensors and the connectors are in the wrong position it is advisable to leave the connectors where they are at
This could cloud your picture of your engine run results ,
This 4th wire determines the correct sensor connector location
This from the pic in above post # 27
Blue is for bank 1 aft
Red is for bank 2 aft
Green is for bank 1 fwd
Brown is for bank 2 fwd
If you are not replacing the fwd sensors and the connectors are in the wrong position it is advisable to leave the connectors where they are at
This could cloud your picture of your engine run results ,
Last edited by Parker 7; 12-23-2023 at 07:54 AM.
#37
So Gents, I replaced the CO2 sensors and boy, what a difference! Before I would have to pull over after 15 minutes of driving, shut off the engine, wait 5 minutes and continue the journey. Now she just purrs like a kitten. Problem solved. Thanks so much for all your help guys!. Without this forum I would have to sell my car.
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