Languid:
Back to your "conservation of power" equation for the fan. Your "something doesn't seem right about that" is that the power (watts) is not equal in both conditions. In series, the fans are essentially running at half speed each. The power conumed by a fan is proportional to the cube of the speed. So, fans operating at twice the speed are consuming approximately 8 times the power. (therefore, fans running at half speed consume 1/8 he power of full speed)

Vic:
While you may very well be testing the relay circuit to determine "powerei s running through it", that does not really fully describe anything. If you are accurate that the relay is closing, AND has power on its output terminal, THEN your problem is simply the solenoid or the power wiring for the starter. However, if that was the case, the original "jumping" to the starter would not have worked. Understand, it is hard enough to diagnose something not standing in front of it, so a very accurate description of the exact conditions will help a lot.

So, When the key is turned to the start position, do you read 12 volts to ground at the white wire at the relay? How about at the white wire at the solenoid? If so, does the solenoid click? With these answers, you are very close to an accurate diagnosis!

 

Sicfc3s,

Put a multimeter or test light across the termials for the relay checking both the power cct that drives the relay (the ident should be on the relay itself showing the correct pins), and the feed contact for the solenoid. If power & earth are present, swap the relay with another such as the A/c relay just to make sure the relay itself isn't 'kaput'. If those things check out OK, then it is either the solenoid, or the BeCM thinks you're trying to steal its precious charge and giving you the finger. It is unlikely that the BeCM is crook, just has an alarm signal and thinks you should be in Wandsworth Prison, not in the driver's seat. It will need to be reset, and that needs a workshop with OBD II diagnostics.

Cheers,

Languid

 

I really don't mean to be picky or start a controversy, BUT "across the termials" is either wrong, innaccurate, or not clear, depending on how yiou want to characterize it. The tests in question need to be done from each terminal to an earth (meaning frame ground) point.

 

Are you referring to the "Engine Immobilization" feature of the security system?

If so, it isn't applicable in this case, as USA market cars did not have the feature.

Not picking nits. Just trying to avoid strolling down non-existent paths :-)


Cheers
DD

 

I used the test light on both sidrs of the engine bay on the different fuse boxes and they all had power, so that woulf mean that the relay is ok right? The relay wad then switched around.

 

Back in Post #13, Doug gave you a very explicit, well researched test procedure. I suggest you follow his advice and report back if it is not clear to you what the results mean. In fact, report back if you need more basic clarified instructions and we will gladly help. Otherwise, just keep poking about and you MIGHT find something. Even a blind squirrel finds an acorn from time to time.