Afternoon People,

I thought I would join this forum on a positive note - however that is a distant feeling right now, I recently bought myself a Daimler Six 4.0 X300 - A midlife crisis purchase that has now bitten me in the *** !! Any help would be greatly appreciated I will keep to the point,

After approx 200-mile drive home - everything running sweet as a nut the following took place:

The battery light came on
The volt meter dropped to the red and the engine cut out, coasted the car to a stop, and tried starting it - nothing dead as a dodo.
Hazards were working
Highway Agency came to help, Put their NOCO booster pack on and the car started for a couple of minutes then cut out
Recovered the vehicle home, the car would go in and out of Park with ignition on however now this is what the situation of play is:

Checked Interia Switch - All ok
Checked for Fault codes - None - All ok
Remote Central locking / Alarm works
Horn works
Electric windows work
Electric seat work
Heater works
Interior lights work

No Main/Dipped beam
No Indicators or Hazard lights
No wipers
No washer jets
The car will not come out of Park

When you turn the car to 2nd Accessory all lights on the dashboard come on as they should, and gauges work
The radiator fan comes on straight away
When you go to start Nothing - and fan then switches off
No Voltage getting to the Starter Motor.

The vehicle Battery is brand new and fully charged - All ok
Checked the white plug by the washer bottle - All ok


This is what I am upto - Once again sorry in advance for another "Won't Start" thread but thought I would share my vehicle symptoms

Regards
Amar

 

Based on what you're seeing I would firstly suspect a failed/poor connection in power or ground somewhere, rather than a component failure.

Without getting out the electrical guides, I would first check voltage drop along the main power supply to the engine bay and fuse boxes. The power goes from battery to big fuse under the rear seat, then to studs that pass through the bulkhead (these are a common source of problems). There are three studs

On RH and LH side, follow the thick cable from the fuse boxes back to the bulkhead. Check for corrosion and tightness (remove the cable, don't just eyeball it)

Also on RH side lower down is the starter/alternator connection. Do same check on that and at the starter motor (where there is a connection to alternator)

Ideally check voltage at these studs with amultimeter and compare to voltage at the battery.

Also check ground studs. Some on firewall, and main engine ground goes between starter motor lower bolt and LH lower chassis.

Let us know the result and we can dig further. Suggest you get hold of the electrical manual/diagrams (can download from the Stickies). Look at circuits for what is working and what isn't and try and identify a common failure point.

 

Thank you so much for the advise, I have a friend coming to help me on Saturday morning to go through it - Will keep you posted on the outcome good, bad, or indifferent.

Kindest Regards

Amar.

 

If you remove the battery to charge it do not hook it back up backwards , ask me how I know

Do not over tighten the battery positive post , breaks the special nut under neight

Did you get an alternator charge light ?

Editing with further information

 

The battery charge light comes on and there is one small fuse for the alternator , it takes power to make power

 

 

Notice the relay as it can be swapped with the left engine bay fuse box in the box corner relay as this one only controls the car horn

 

The alternator voltage regulator that can be changed is a IN435 , If this fails you will get not voltage from the alternator

In the states an auto parts store can spin up the alternator ( VR inside ) and print out what's going on if your issue is the alternator

The alternator mount has a busching than does not come out , for the long pivot bolt , best from under neight

The alternator can be pinched in with the alternator mount , long screwdriver

The alternator comes out from the top , keep track of the 2 small wires ( different then the round plug , VR power and alternator indication ) ) attach point as this is your voltage noise suppressor.

 

Thank you for all the tips, I am looking into it tomorrow morning and will update the thread as I make any progress.

 

Welcome to the forums Amar,

Sorry to hear your X300 ownership experience has got off badly.

I may be missing something here but if I'm driving along normally and the battery light comes on, my first thought is alternator drive belt or alternator. A different situation from walking into the garage to find a parked car won't start.

As you have posted directly in the model forum without first posting in New Member Area - Intro a MUST, please read the guidance for new members ( https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/n...ned-up-241802/ ) which answers many of the most frequent questions about getting started.

Graham

 

Apologises for missing that section I will do an Introduction on that section too, I did look at some old threads but everyone fault symptoms seem to vary hence I started a new thread.

 

Graham makes a fair point about the Alternator belt so check that first. However as you said the battery was new and fully charged, I'd expect everything to work without the alternator until the battery is drained.

I had a quick look at the electrical diagram for main power and fuse boxes along side what you said was working and what wasn't. I've annotated a picture that might help your diagnosis. Horn is the fly in the ointment. Are you sure that's working?

 

X300 battery won't charge properly despite working alternator - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

 

Horn as the left engine bay fuse box relay is a special case and to test that relay is honk , honk , this verifies you have a valid swapping option to the right engine bay fuse box and other fuse boxes corner relay

To test all 5 fuse boxes that they are getting the correct close command ( with the exception of the left engine bay ) have the key in the run position and remove the fuse boxes relay and they should click in your fingers back to the open position

In all 5 fuse boxes fuse 1 - 9 are hot at all times

Fuse 10 . 12 , 14 , 16 require the fuse box relay to close

Which leaves 11 , 13 , 15 , 17 to be hot at all times

 

There was someone in England that did have a heavy battery cable terminal post on the rear engine firewall loose

There are 2 that go fwd to the engine bay fuse boxes

This is Brendan's purple circle

The person had to remove the engine side battery cable from the post and wiggle the post

If the post is not tight it will not clamp the battery cable aft of the firewall as it comes fwd from the battery

In Brendan's purple circle there is a 3rd large battery cable terminal post that is actually located just frd of the rear engine fire wall and the right wheel flare

This from reading has come loose

This heavy cable run does 2 things

Alternator B + post on the alternator to go back and feed the battery

battery to the starter during that operation

in between the right wheel flare terminal post and the alternator if you look down through the intake pipes is the tie point terminal post on the starter

This is someone's pic of the 3rd terminal post different then the 2 on the firewall



And this is your starter tie point terminal post

 

Thank you for all the tips and suggestions, I will come back to you in due course and fingers crossed I get the old girl to start and back to normal tomorrow.

Kindest regards

 

Try a new battery. Some of the modules are very sensitive to voltage, and if you drop below threshold, they won’t function correctly despite seemingly having power.

 

If you do find the fuse # 10 right engine bay fuse box ( alternator ) blown do not just drive off as it may blow again as other things share this same fuse like the wiper fluid nozzle jet heaters

You would have to disconnect those other systems until resolved

The sounder which is behind the right headlights has a history of shorting out from reading and it can be easily disconnected as the connector is right there , The sounder has to do with the security system ( extra horn and internal battery than can short from water intrusion behind the gaps in the headlight assembly )

 

Morning All,

Quick update: I can't believe it after having the new battery that was on the car, on trickle charge for 24 hours off the car and fitting it back into the car this morning the car started the first time and all electrics functioned as normal.
Checked the Alternator output and nothing coming out so it seems that the Alternator has given up. It looks to be the original one from the factory.

So I will get a new one ordered on Monday, get it installed then test everything again to make sure all is in order. I would sincerely like to thank everyone who has contributed to assist and I can say that this has to be one of the best forums I have joined from my initial assessment.

 

The original alternator as a whole assembly is a Denso brand / manufacture . 120 amp

Have it spun up on their bench tester at the auto parts store before purchasing another one

Have the new one spun up as well before installing

New ones can be bad off the shelf as common from reading

# IN435 Voltage Regulator for Denso Alternators, 12 Volt,On: Asuna (1993-1993) , Geo (1990-1993) , Isuzu (1990-1993) , Jaguar (1993-1997) , Jaguar - Europe (1994-1997) (alternatorparts.com)

The alternator belts are sensitive to size even though there is an adjustment

My original Jaguar EBC11306 marked belt off the top of my head is 295 cm , which is 116 inches so obviously wrong

Genuine Drive Belts-3.2/4.0/4.0 Litre Supercharged (3.2 Litre,4.0 Litre,4.0 Litre (california),4.0 Litre Supercharged) For Jaguar Xj 1995 - 1997 (from 720125 To 812255) Classic | Jaguar Land Rover Classic Parts

Belt # 1 alternator

Belt # 2 is AC compressor

Belt # 3 is supercharger as a 3rd pully on your crankshaft

Your 2 belts on your car ( other AC compressor ) if I recall are the same length but different rib count