Rear Suspension struts average install charge
#1
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Haleiwa, HI & Beverly Hills, CA
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Got a 97 Xj6 and one shop quoted me over $500 just to install the rear struts.
Does it really take that long to install to charge $250 labor per strut?
I got the front struts installed for about $115 labor per strut
is it twice as hard to install the rear shocks or am i being over quoted?
Thanks!
Does it really take that long to install to charge $250 labor per strut?
I got the front struts installed for about $115 labor per strut
is it twice as hard to install the rear shocks or am i being over quoted?
Thanks!
#2
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Fronts are a piece of cake, the rears are a different thing totally.
I did a search here or was it JL, dont remember, and found several excellant write ups on doing the rears, and it is NOT a simple procedure. I am about to do mine (one day soon), and I reckon about 6 hours all up IF it all goes as per the info I have gathered, bet it dont hahaha, plenty of JD on hand just in case.
I did a search here or was it JL, dont remember, and found several excellant write ups on doing the rears, and it is NOT a simple procedure. I am about to do mine (one day soon), and I reckon about 6 hours all up IF it all goes as per the info I have gathered, bet it dont hahaha, plenty of JD on hand just in case.
#4
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Thanks guys...
@ Grant... Do you know if there are any special tools needed for the job?. I have the time but the tools are another issue. But then again even if the tools cost close to $500 it would be worth it to me... Do you know where I could find a step by step procedure list if there is such a thing for the x300.
Thanks again
@ Grant... Do you know if there are any special tools needed for the job?. I have the time but the tools are another issue. But then again even if the tools cost close to $500 it would be worth it to me... Do you know where I could find a step by step procedure list if there is such a thing for the x300.
Thanks again
#5
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No special tools as such, just time and patience, jacks, jack stands, BIG hammer, BIGGER hammer, Lots if Jack D for inner lubrication. I have been taking the time to spray all the bolts and nuts I can reach with penetrating oil in preperation. Might do some good, might just be a good feeling, time will tell.
I will stooge around and find the write ups, mmmm, maybe I saved them on my PC, hahaha, now to find them, then I will send to you what I find sometime tonight.
I will stooge around and find the write ups, mmmm, maybe I saved them on my PC, hahaha, now to find them, then I will send to you what I find sometime tonight.
#6
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Sent you a private message, found the Abobe document on the write up, I have NO idea how to attach to this reply, computor dumb, bad luck.
My email address is in that private message. Let me know your email address and I will send you the document, or someone speak PLAIN language and I will attach it here for all to read, whatever, no problems for me.
My email address is in that private message. Let me know your email address and I will send you the document, or someone speak PLAIN language and I will attach it here for all to read, whatever, no problems for me.
#7
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Grant,
I also am looking at doing my rear shocks and would love to see the file you have! Here's a link to the forum's instructions for uploading / attching a file (need to do it by starting a new post...)
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...b3_attachments
Hope it works!
Thanks
I also am looking at doing my rear shocks and would love to see the file you have! Here's a link to the forum's instructions for uploading / attching a file (need to do it by starting a new post...)
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...b3_attachments
Hope it works!
Thanks
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#10
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Attachment 4798
Not sure if this will work, the file "uploaded" OK, but I cannot open it from the attachment logo above, dunno.
If it dont work and anyone wants it, send me a "private PM, and I will oblige.
Not sure if this will work, the file "uploaded" OK, but I cannot open it from the attachment logo above, dunno.
If it dont work and anyone wants it, send me a "private PM, and I will oblige.
Last edited by Grant Francis; 05-12-2011 at 03:42 AM.
#11
#12
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Thanks for the file Grant, we don't have it in the the FAQ but that will be put right shortly
Looks to be a good write up that the guy Chris xyz did.
I agree, saving stuff on your PC, can be a bit like remembering where you put the needle before you made the haystack.
Good luck with the shocks.
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I agree, saving stuff on your PC, can be a bit like remembering where you put the needle before you made the haystack.
Good luck with the shocks.
#13
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The big kick with doing the rear shock replacement is the long, 22mm bolt that goes through the bottom of the shock. Although it's the easiest bolt of any of the bolts involved in the whole ordeal to access, it's generally the toughest to get out. Basically, once the nut has been removed and the rear hub has been supported, you need to first make sure the bolt will turn and that it's not seized up in the lower shock mount. Then, it'll require a lot of pounding with a big hammer to get it to back out. Be careful though, too much pounding and you'll mushroom the end of the bolt, and at that point, you'll have to cut the end few threads off to be able to re-use it....ask me how I know. I had to do it on both sides of my car. Beyond that, the rear shock R&R, while not a quick job, isn't particularly any sort of rocket science. I had mine done in about six hours. Do make sure to spray EVERYTHING down with a good penetrating oil first, especially the four upper spring pan mount studs/nuts (13mm), as you don't want to break one of those off...and fingers crossed, I didn't...but they sure looked corroded, so I soaked them and let everything work its magic for an evening before I attacked.
#15
#16
Join Date: May 2009
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Thanks Rommel! that link is very helpful as well & you don't need to download anything since its online. Although it is good to have a pdf saved in case the internet goes out half way through the job
Thanks again everyone. Im going to install my new shocks but first I am going to replace the valve cover gasket seal and valve cover spark plug seals as I found a lot of oil in more than one cylinder hole when I threw in new plugs.
Keeping my fingers crossed thats all it needs to stop the leaks
I will update everyone with pics as the job goes along if I run into anything worth mentioning
now its time to
Thanks again everyone. Im going to install my new shocks but first I am going to replace the valve cover gasket seal and valve cover spark plug seals as I found a lot of oil in more than one cylinder hole when I threw in new plugs.
Keeping my fingers crossed thats all it needs to stop the leaks
I will update everyone with pics as the job goes along if I run into anything worth mentioning
now its time to
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#17
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So I've spent a good chunk of my vacation re-doing my rear shocks...quite a job! I used the info Grant posted earlier in this thread... also located in the "X300 FAQ quick link" sticky (https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4798&d=1282980455)
The info there is extremely helpful and will get you through step by step. I will be finishing mine in the morning...just have to install the 'A-Frame Mounts' and put the wheels on!
I was fortunate that corrosion is nearly non-existant on my Jag and everything came apart with relative ease.![Icon Razz](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)
There are only a few very minor differences between the downloaded instructions and what I encountered on my '97 X300: 1) I had no 8mm bolts or hose referenced in step 5. 2) Step 8 had no bearing on my vehicle...non-existant bolts mentioned here! 3) It may be helpful to use a support as mentioned in step 9, but the A-Frame is not very heavy and I held mine in place with one hand while removing the last bolt with the other. A little awkward getting it back up there though.
A few notes I'd suggest keeping in mind;
-Reference the rear suspension section of the service manual before starting so as to familiarize yourself with what parts come off of what.
- Where you have a nut on a bolt (such as the 4 leading edge A-Frame bolts) you'd do well to loosen the nut before even trying to turn the bolt. You just might save a bolt this way! Some knuckles too.
- Grease the u-joints while you're in the area as the document suggests, but also...grease the lower shock mount bolt (shank only of course!) as the service manual indicates as well as the caliper bolts/guide pins. Prior to applying a thin film (only) of grease, use a wire brush or some steel wool to remove any old gunk spots from the bolts. The wishbone fulcrum bolts take grease also. You might want to do that with everything already apart and all tension is already removed. Support the hub end well if you do so.
- Before assembling the shocks/isolaters, remove any old gunk/sticky spots on the spring/strut mounting left over from the old isolators. Any stuff left over there will only serve as abrasion spots for the new isolators.
I had some trouble translating the service manual recommended greases into something useful for my local purchases. I found a few web sites very helpful, you might too:
http://www.lubeandtune.com.au/html/lubekey.asp
http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp...es_B112520.pdf
http://www.lubricants.com/
I'm looking forward to a quieter smoother ride tomorrow!!!
The info there is extremely helpful and will get you through step by step. I will be finishing mine in the morning...just have to install the 'A-Frame Mounts' and put the wheels on!
I was fortunate that corrosion is nearly non-existant on my Jag and everything came apart with relative ease.
![Icon Razz](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)
There are only a few very minor differences between the downloaded instructions and what I encountered on my '97 X300: 1) I had no 8mm bolts or hose referenced in step 5. 2) Step 8 had no bearing on my vehicle...non-existant bolts mentioned here! 3) It may be helpful to use a support as mentioned in step 9, but the A-Frame is not very heavy and I held mine in place with one hand while removing the last bolt with the other. A little awkward getting it back up there though.
A few notes I'd suggest keeping in mind;
-Reference the rear suspension section of the service manual before starting so as to familiarize yourself with what parts come off of what.
- Where you have a nut on a bolt (such as the 4 leading edge A-Frame bolts) you'd do well to loosen the nut before even trying to turn the bolt. You just might save a bolt this way! Some knuckles too.
- Grease the u-joints while you're in the area as the document suggests, but also...grease the lower shock mount bolt (shank only of course!) as the service manual indicates as well as the caliper bolts/guide pins. Prior to applying a thin film (only) of grease, use a wire brush or some steel wool to remove any old gunk spots from the bolts. The wishbone fulcrum bolts take grease also. You might want to do that with everything already apart and all tension is already removed. Support the hub end well if you do so.
- Before assembling the shocks/isolaters, remove any old gunk/sticky spots on the spring/strut mounting left over from the old isolators. Any stuff left over there will only serve as abrasion spots for the new isolators.
I had some trouble translating the service manual recommended greases into something useful for my local purchases. I found a few web sites very helpful, you might too:
http://www.lubeandtune.com.au/html/lubekey.asp
http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp...es_B112520.pdf
http://www.lubricants.com/
I'm looking forward to a quieter smoother ride tomorrow!!!
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Last edited by mailshack; 10-18-2010 at 12:28 AM.
#18
#19
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Thanks sparkenzap.
I'd say there was no single pain about the removal / install...at least not for what I ran into, but the whole thing together is quite the job to wrestle with!
Nice to have it done. Now instead of loud KA-THUNKS, BANGS and SLAMS coming from the rear end at each little road anomily (yes it was that bad...the top isolator was completely worn away on the driver's side!), all's I get is a gentle ~bump~.
I'd say there was no single pain about the removal / install...at least not for what I ran into, but the whole thing together is quite the job to wrestle with!
Nice to have it done. Now instead of loud KA-THUNKS, BANGS and SLAMS coming from the rear end at each little road anomily (yes it was that bad...the top isolator was completely worn away on the driver's side!), all's I get is a gentle ~bump~.
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