Remote won't program (yes i have read other threads)
#41
@John Herbert i received my kit today. And hope to install it soon, (may have to wait until after xmas tho now)
i have a question tho regarding which wires to connect.
Black and red = to power.
Brown (hazards not sure exactly where to connect this, i would like lights to flash.) i would guess somewhere in the hazard light circuit but no idea where
Blue = to the boot release actuator.
but which wires to power the doors?
are the doors a NO or NC circuit?
i assume i only need to connect maybe the yellow and the yellow black wires? As i think its a NO circuit?
i have a question tho regarding which wires to connect.
Black and red = to power.
Brown (hazards not sure exactly where to connect this, i would like lights to flash.) i would guess somewhere in the hazard light circuit but no idea where
Blue = to the boot release actuator.
but which wires to power the doors?
are the doors a NO or NC circuit?
i assume i only need to connect maybe the yellow and the yellow black wires? As i think its a NO circuit?
Last edited by Spud Maat; 12-18-2021 at 04:03 AM.
#42
#45
The 1995 wiring guide is lacking but if you look at the 1996 it shows the seperate left and right door lock switches
See Page 207
jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/jagxj1996.pdf
I think there is a difference in the pins as they enter the SLCM and this can be a issue with the wrong SLCM installed
This would be pin CA18 - 4 and 10 for Rest of World vs, 6 and 12 for the others like LHD and RHD and NAS ( North American Specification )
If you look on page 206 the SLCM puts 1.74 volts on the pins sensing the status of the lock
If it sees a ground and the 1.74 volts resulting in 0 volts now on the pin it has an agreement that the lock is locked
On the 95 it states this is a momentary contact switch but on the 96 it is not labeled as such
So with the key in the lock . the rotation of the key to the lock position if spring loaded will return to neutral position to remove the key would be a clue somehow
This may be a reason you are not reading it if the switch is only linked to the key barrel and not to the actual lock as it goes over center into lock position
We should stay talking on one print page ( 1996 ) as the differences will get confusing if refering back and forth between the 1995 and 1996 print
See Page 207
jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/jagxj1996.pdf
I think there is a difference in the pins as they enter the SLCM and this can be a issue with the wrong SLCM installed
This would be pin CA18 - 4 and 10 for Rest of World vs, 6 and 12 for the others like LHD and RHD and NAS ( North American Specification )
If you look on page 206 the SLCM puts 1.74 volts on the pins sensing the status of the lock
If it sees a ground and the 1.74 volts resulting in 0 volts now on the pin it has an agreement that the lock is locked
On the 95 it states this is a momentary contact switch but on the 96 it is not labeled as such
So with the key in the lock . the rotation of the key to the lock position if spring loaded will return to neutral position to remove the key would be a clue somehow
This may be a reason you are not reading it if the switch is only linked to the key barrel and not to the actual lock as it goes over center into lock position
We should stay talking on one print page ( 1996 ) as the differences will get confusing if refering back and forth between the 1995 and 1996 print
Last edited by Parker 7; 12-19-2021 at 01:43 AM.
#46
interesting.
i will start reading the 1996 elec guide then.
didn't get a chance to get into the car to look at it today.
i can trial which of the 3 lock and 3 unlock wires is required on the car when i eventually get a chance to do the install.
but back to the wire to flash the indicators, i assume if i connect direct to the wires near the rear tail lights its will only flash those and not flash the front also. i was trying to see if the was a wire that came out of the SLCM that would send a signal to flash the lights that i could tap into. i would assume there is but i couldn't see it when reading the diagram.
there is CA21-9 Visual Warning, that goes from the SLCM to the BPM but is that for the indicator flash on remote lock/unlock? or for headlight flashing when car in programming mode? or what exactly? not really sure.....
because otherwise i will need to run a wire all the way from the boot where i am mounting the keyless entry kit all the way to the front of the car to the hazard light switch.
i will start reading the 1996 elec guide then.
didn't get a chance to get into the car to look at it today.
i can trial which of the 3 lock and 3 unlock wires is required on the car when i eventually get a chance to do the install.
but back to the wire to flash the indicators, i assume if i connect direct to the wires near the rear tail lights its will only flash those and not flash the front also. i was trying to see if the was a wire that came out of the SLCM that would send a signal to flash the lights that i could tap into. i would assume there is but i couldn't see it when reading the diagram.
there is CA21-9 Visual Warning, that goes from the SLCM to the BPM but is that for the indicator flash on remote lock/unlock? or for headlight flashing when car in programming mode? or what exactly? not really sure.....
because otherwise i will need to run a wire all the way from the boot where i am mounting the keyless entry kit all the way to the front of the car to the hazard light switch.
#48
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Spud Maat (12-27-2021)
#50
You tube video someone made for what ever it is worth in your trouble shooting
Notice the different chirps it makes as it successfully goes through the steps
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jSpzXuSOctg
Notice the different chirps it makes as it successfully goes through the steps
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jSpzXuSOctg
for now i will instal the aftermarket keyless entry kit and also keep my eye out for a factory remote to try......
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Parker 7 (12-27-2021)
#51
Ok, so in the process of wiring in the aftermarket keyless entry kit, and i have been able to test it as working.
my biggest query now is in regard to having the lights flash.
i thought maybe tapping into the SLCM "Visual Warning" Pin might work but it does not.
so ATM i think that leaves me with 2 options.
1. my prefered and i hope it works is to tap into the two indicator input wires in the Lamp Control Module. Just not sure if this will cause any issues, the light wiring from the keyless entry is equipped with diodes so it should be ok.
2. connect to the hazard light switch, a PITA to run the wires all the way.
3. connect to each different bulb output on the LCM. would be a complete PITA to tap into and connect to 8 different wires for this one.
am hoping option 1 works.
my biggest query now is in regard to having the lights flash.
i thought maybe tapping into the SLCM "Visual Warning" Pin might work but it does not.
so ATM i think that leaves me with 2 options.
1. my prefered and i hope it works is to tap into the two indicator input wires in the Lamp Control Module. Just not sure if this will cause any issues, the light wiring from the keyless entry is equipped with diodes so it should be ok.
2. connect to the hazard light switch, a PITA to run the wires all the way.
3. connect to each different bulb output on the LCM. would be a complete PITA to tap into and connect to 8 different wires for this one.
am hoping option 1 works.
Last edited by Spud Maat; 12-28-2021 at 04:09 AM.
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Parker 7 (12-27-2021)
#52
Ok so job practically done.
It is all working.
Unlock and lock works as intended and boot release pops the boot as intended.
- tapping into the door lock/unlock wires from the SLCM was straight forward.
tapping into the boot release was easy as the keyless entry kit sends out a negative trigger and the boot release relay is negatively triggered. i originally tried to tap direct to the boot actuator but then i realised the keyless entry kit sent out a negative signal so tapped into the relay.
now to get the indicators working was a little more work.
so i tapped into the indicator control input wires on the Light Control Module,
then i saw that nothing was then happening.
what i then realised was the KE kit was sending out + signal and i needed to input a - signal into the LCM.
so i then had to wire in a relay to convert the + signal into a - signal.
i connected this all up and had the lights flashing on lock/unlock and boot release.
Perfect.....
or so i thought......
what i then realised is that due to attempting to use one relay to control both the left and right sides what was happening was now that when i went to put an indicator on a signal was being sent to both the left and right sides and therefore both lights were flashing.
i now had no left and right indicator only hazards. LOL.
i tried to connect some diodes in after the relay but due to it being - trigger that caused no lights to flash.
for now i have disconnected the LH side and only have the RH side lights flashing on the locking.
so what i now need to do is buy another relay and wire in a seperate relay for the LH and the RH side and run 2 relays.
the wiring from the KE kit is split into 2 indicator control wires with diodes already so putting one of these wires into one relay and one into another relay will get both sides flashing without causing both circuits to be completed when the indicators are switched on.
It is all working.
Unlock and lock works as intended and boot release pops the boot as intended.
- tapping into the door lock/unlock wires from the SLCM was straight forward.
tapping into the boot release was easy as the keyless entry kit sends out a negative trigger and the boot release relay is negatively triggered. i originally tried to tap direct to the boot actuator but then i realised the keyless entry kit sent out a negative signal so tapped into the relay.
now to get the indicators working was a little more work.
so i tapped into the indicator control input wires on the Light Control Module,
then i saw that nothing was then happening.
what i then realised was the KE kit was sending out + signal and i needed to input a - signal into the LCM.
so i then had to wire in a relay to convert the + signal into a - signal.
i connected this all up and had the lights flashing on lock/unlock and boot release.
Perfect.....
or so i thought......
what i then realised is that due to attempting to use one relay to control both the left and right sides what was happening was now that when i went to put an indicator on a signal was being sent to both the left and right sides and therefore both lights were flashing.
i now had no left and right indicator only hazards. LOL.
i tried to connect some diodes in after the relay but due to it being - trigger that caused no lights to flash.
for now i have disconnected the LH side and only have the RH side lights flashing on the locking.
so what i now need to do is buy another relay and wire in a seperate relay for the LH and the RH side and run 2 relays.
the wiring from the KE kit is split into 2 indicator control wires with diodes already so putting one of these wires into one relay and one into another relay will get both sides flashing without causing both circuits to be completed when the indicators are switched on.
#54
So i got around to installing the second relay today.
So now both left and right indicators flash with the lock and unlock and work independently correctly as turn signals.
now i have one thought.
do i leave it only with the visual warning or do i connect the second output from one of the relays to a sounder?
So now both left and right indicators flash with the lock and unlock and work independently correctly as turn signals.
now i have one thought.
do i leave it only with the visual warning or do i connect the second output from one of the relays to a sounder?
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Parker 7 (01-01-2022)
#55
The loud horn blast you want
The chipping comes in handy if proceeding through the reprogramming steps and you have agreements to proceed to the next steps and to know if alarm is armed when leaving vehicle
I haven't researched these outputs yet from the original design then crossing over to your aftermarket kit
The chipping comes in handy if proceeding through the reprogramming steps and you have agreements to proceed to the next steps and to know if alarm is armed when leaving vehicle
I haven't researched these outputs yet from the original design then crossing over to your aftermarket kit
#56
The loud horn blast you want
The chipping comes in handy if proceeding through the reprogramming steps and you have agreements to proceed to the next steps and to know if alarm is armed when leaving vehicle
I haven't researched these outputs yet from the original design then crossing over to your aftermarket kit
The chipping comes in handy if proceeding through the reprogramming steps and you have agreements to proceed to the next steps and to know if alarm is armed when leaving vehicle
I haven't researched these outputs yet from the original design then crossing over to your aftermarket kit
or i could install an aftermarket sounder/horn with a different tone.
the factory sounder is a decent idea.
from what i know if tapping into the horn i would also need to use a timer to enable it to be a correct length sound. Otherwise it just honks so short its not ideal.
time to find a train horn. Lmao!
#57
The original sounder has a limited life from the sealed in rechargeable batteries inside and damage to the inside electronics package from water injestion being behind the gaps in the headlights
Horn relay is in the corner of the left engine bay fuse box and the relay is ground seeking ( on the control half ) to close the relay
This will be the Green / Blue colored wire coming out of the bottom of the fuse box , it is already spliced into your original SLCM , this splice is located a aft of the engine firewall somewhere going toward the steering column button
See in section 20.1 of the 1996 wiring guide
jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/jagxj1996.pdf
This relay is in the position in other fuse boxes to close power to fuse 10 , 12 , 14 , 16 but is not used in this way on this fuse box
The rest of the fuses 1 - 9 and on bypass this relay and are hot at all times
Horn relay is in the corner of the left engine bay fuse box and the relay is ground seeking ( on the control half ) to close the relay
This will be the Green / Blue colored wire coming out of the bottom of the fuse box , it is already spliced into your original SLCM , this splice is located a aft of the engine firewall somewhere going toward the steering column button
See in section 20.1 of the 1996 wiring guide
jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/jagxj1996.pdf
This relay is in the position in other fuse boxes to close power to fuse 10 , 12 , 14 , 16 but is not used in this way on this fuse box
The rest of the fuses 1 - 9 and on bypass this relay and are hot at all times
Last edited by Parker 7; 01-01-2022 at 08:42 PM.
#58
The original sounder has a limited life from the sealed in rechargeable batteries inside and damage to the inside electronics package from water injestion being behind the gaps in the headlights
Horn relay is in the corner of the left engine bay fuse box and the relay is ground seeking ( on the control half ) to close the relay
This will be the Green / Blue colored wire coming out of the bottom of the fuse box , it is already spliced into your original SLCM
See in section 20.1 of the 1996 wiring guide
jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/jagxj1996.pdf
This relay is in the position in other fuse boxes to close power to fuse 10 , 12 , 14 , 16 but is not used in this way on this fuse box
The rest of the fuses 1 - 9 and on bypass this relay and are hot at all times
Horn relay is in the corner of the left engine bay fuse box and the relay is ground seeking ( on the control half ) to close the relay
This will be the Green / Blue colored wire coming out of the bottom of the fuse box , it is already spliced into your original SLCM
See in section 20.1 of the 1996 wiring guide
jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/jagxj1996.pdf
This relay is in the position in other fuse boxes to close power to fuse 10 , 12 , 14 , 16 but is not used in this way on this fuse box
The rest of the fuses 1 - 9 and on bypass this relay and are hot at all times
and yeah most things are - trigger. Which is why i have had to install relays into the indicator trigger circuits.
the KE kit outputs + signal via the indicator wires, and the jag LCM needs - trigger which is why the relays needed to go in to convert the trigger from + to -.
so connecting the 87a output from one of those relays to the GU wire going to the horn would provide the trigger needed to set the horn off.
just unsure at this point if i want the system quiet or noisy.
The following users liked this post:
Parker 7 (01-01-2022)
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