Removing ignition coils / spark plugs
#1
Removing ignition coils / spark plugs
Any trick to doing this on my 96 VDP? I have a misfire that I'd like to take care of as quickly (an cheaply) as possible since I just put a new converter on it a couple months ago and don't want to double my expenses.
I took the cover off with the T27 (3 screws) and see the leads but not sure if I can just pry them off from the top with a screwdriver or something (to confirm if a coil or plugs are the problem).
I'm 35 years old and not a mechanic , however, I am not afraid to learn anything. Just haven't felt compelled until I bought this old gem......
Any tips or links would be greatly appreciated!
Also, can someone tell me (should I need a new coil):
1. Should I REALLY buy a whole set? I mean will I possibly do the car any justice by putting them in now? I'm thinking if I am able to do them myself, and they are working, they are working?
2. Does it really matter if I get the $200/each version or the $$50-60 version everyone seems to sell that doesn't have jaguar in their url?
Thanks a bunch!
I took the cover off with the T27 (3 screws) and see the leads but not sure if I can just pry them off from the top with a screwdriver or something (to confirm if a coil or plugs are the problem).
I'm 35 years old and not a mechanic , however, I am not afraid to learn anything. Just haven't felt compelled until I bought this old gem......
Any tips or links would be greatly appreciated!
Also, can someone tell me (should I need a new coil):
1. Should I REALLY buy a whole set? I mean will I possibly do the car any justice by putting them in now? I'm thinking if I am able to do them myself, and they are working, they are working?
2. Does it really matter if I get the $200/each version or the $$50-60 version everyone seems to sell that doesn't have jaguar in their url?
Thanks a bunch!
#2
#3
Dan,
The coils simply pull off after you loosen the 2 8mm bolts securing them. Beneath the coils are rubber boots which seat on the spark plugs themselves. Coil replacement is truly as simple as replacing a light bulb. Just unbolt, pull out, put in new coil, and rebolt.
You'll get responses all over the map re: "Factory" or "Cheap" coils. My philosophy is: If I get 100,000 miles out of a cheap coil, vs 150,000 out of a factory coil is it worth the $150 savings? For me it's a no brainer. It's a part that's easily replaced in 5 minutes, so $50 cheapies just make the most sense. I'd purchase 2 cheapies, & sit one of em in the trunk so I've a spare with me if another fails.
The coils simply pull off after you loosen the 2 8mm bolts securing them. Beneath the coils are rubber boots which seat on the spark plugs themselves. Coil replacement is truly as simple as replacing a light bulb. Just unbolt, pull out, put in new coil, and rebolt.
You'll get responses all over the map re: "Factory" or "Cheap" coils. My philosophy is: If I get 100,000 miles out of a cheap coil, vs 150,000 out of a factory coil is it worth the $150 savings? For me it's a no brainer. It's a part that's easily replaced in 5 minutes, so $50 cheapies just make the most sense. I'd purchase 2 cheapies, & sit one of em in the trunk so I've a spare with me if another fails.
#4
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Eighteen months ago I bought four cheapie coils (Beck Arnley) and a couple months later two more of them same. All six of those have failed.
Of the six failed coils four failed within the twelve month warranty and were replaced. That leaves us with four replacements and two from the original purchase. Of those, five have failed. The only remaining BA coil is one of the warranty replacements.
So, if you buy the cheapies my advice is to buy extras to carry in the car and the tools needed to replace 'em by the side of the road. That's what I ended up doing. Cheap or or not, the fun and adventure of this drill sorta begins to wear off after a couple times.
Until recently I have been using used Lucas coils (typically getting a few months life out of them) but thanks to a sharp fellow enthusiast who pointed me in the right direction I've bought a couple of these, one is on the car and the other to have on hand in preparation for the inevitable failure of the last remaining BA unit:
Jaguar XJS XJR XJ6 Ignition Coil 95 97 | eBay
Judging from the labels these are the exact same manufacturer as the so-called "Lucas" coils so I'm hoping they'll last a few years. If so, the extra $50/each is well worth it.
Genuine "Lucas" replacements from Jaguar, in a Jaguar box, are now over $400/each which is stupid-expensive by anyone's measure.
Cheers
DD
PS- I should add that the last coil failure I had (with the typical crazy gauges and Tokyo-at-night flashing warnings lights) seems to have created another problem. *Immediately* after the last failure episode my ABS warning light is on at all times.
Of the six failed coils four failed within the twelve month warranty and were replaced. That leaves us with four replacements and two from the original purchase. Of those, five have failed. The only remaining BA coil is one of the warranty replacements.
So, if you buy the cheapies my advice is to buy extras to carry in the car and the tools needed to replace 'em by the side of the road. That's what I ended up doing. Cheap or or not, the fun and adventure of this drill sorta begins to wear off after a couple times.
Until recently I have been using used Lucas coils (typically getting a few months life out of them) but thanks to a sharp fellow enthusiast who pointed me in the right direction I've bought a couple of these, one is on the car and the other to have on hand in preparation for the inevitable failure of the last remaining BA unit:
Jaguar XJS XJR XJ6 Ignition Coil 95 97 | eBay
Judging from the labels these are the exact same manufacturer as the so-called "Lucas" coils so I'm hoping they'll last a few years. If so, the extra $50/each is well worth it.
Genuine "Lucas" replacements from Jaguar, in a Jaguar box, are now over $400/each which is stupid-expensive by anyone's measure.
Cheers
DD
PS- I should add that the last coil failure I had (with the typical crazy gauges and Tokyo-at-night flashing warnings lights) seems to have created another problem. *Immediately* after the last failure episode my ABS warning light is on at all times.
#5
Join Date: Mar 2008
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#6
I originally bought the cheap ones they didn't last 15,000 k,s or 2 years only 2 went this time
I decided to get a full set again this time I got them from these guys Ignition Coil - LHE1510AB | Jaguar X300 - XJR, Jaguar XJS | Jaguar | British Parts UK They where pretty quick getting them to Australia only took 4 days also these coils had made in Japan on them and looked like the originals
I'll tell you how they last in the next couple of years I have already done 15,000 k,s on them
I decided to get a full set again this time I got them from these guys Ignition Coil - LHE1510AB | Jaguar X300 - XJR, Jaguar XJS | Jaguar | British Parts UK They where pretty quick getting them to Australia only took 4 days also these coils had made in Japan on them and looked like the originals
I'll tell you how they last in the next couple of years I have already done 15,000 k,s on them
Last edited by doc; 12-31-2012 at 10:10 PM.
#7
I was just about to go out to the garage and change all 6 coils with ones bought from British Parts UK (the same ones as Doc bought) when I read this thread!
The XJR6 has 82K Miles on it and since I've only done the last 2K Miles I though I'd be nice and replace the coils and spark plugs. It idles little bit rough sometimes after starting and on the highway at a constant speed with cruise control set it will have a bit of vibration at different times on the road. (May have a bit of balancing to do but since the vibration is intermittent at the same speed but possibly under different loads I though I'd try the coils as well)
Is there a way to tell if a coil is bad without some type of tester/computer and do you guys think I should replace all the coils anyway because of the millage?
Thanks for any advice!
Chris
The XJR6 has 82K Miles on it and since I've only done the last 2K Miles I though I'd be nice and replace the coils and spark plugs. It idles little bit rough sometimes after starting and on the highway at a constant speed with cruise control set it will have a bit of vibration at different times on the road. (May have a bit of balancing to do but since the vibration is intermittent at the same speed but possibly under different loads I though I'd try the coils as well)
Is there a way to tell if a coil is bad without some type of tester/computer and do you guys think I should replace all the coils anyway because of the millage?
Thanks for any advice!
Chris
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#8
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
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The only test I know of is to measure primary resistance ....between the two connector pins....which should be .75 OHM.
From experience I've learned that this test is of limited value. A coil that passes a "bench test" with correct resistance may fail while driving. And I've had some coils with high resistance that worked perfectly well....right up to the point that they didn't.
If you suspect a coil is flat-out, 100% inoperative checking primary resistance may indentify which one it is. Unfortunately, 100% inoperative is not the usual failure mode of these coils.
I'd install your new ones and save the old ones as spares. You might need 'em one day.
Cheers
DD
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