Hi there everyone, I've been studying the forum for a while but now have a question I can't seem to find an answer to! I've had an x300 for years and unfortunately it didn't make it due to rust taking over. I've just got another which appears in a very solid state having spent quite a few years garaged.
I wanted to find out how to rust proof it my self, I was looking at bilt hamber cavity wax, unfortunately I know little about the underside of the car, where and how do I get into the sills? Am I right in thinking that there are holes under the door tread plates? Where else can I spray the cavity wax and not damage anything, does anyone know of a diagram I could consult to guide me on how to treat the underside? Will the wax be enough to stop corrosion in sills and cavitys? Many thanks in advance for any help and advice.

 

Be very sure that before you spray anything into any cavities, that there is no corrosion or even the beginning of corrosion present. Rust will always appear last, on the outside, working its' way through from the inside. Spraying foam etc. inside, will trap the corrosion and force it to work through in the only direction available.

I recently had cause to cut a section of sill from my "very clean" donor car and was shocked to see the amount of corrosion inside, with some sections of the inner sill assembly completely eaten away!

Personally, I think the only effective corrosion prevention can be undertaken when the car is new or practically new, when there is absolutely no corrosion present. Otherwise it's not prevention.

I think a weak spot in the design is in the front lower inner sill area, where mud and dirt is thrown up and gets in past the inner fender liner. If you do any work, check this area and seal it up! I don't know if there are access holes beneath the plates, but if not, you could always put some in, or alternatively behind the carpet on the inside of the sill.

Good luck with it and sorry I can't be of any actual help.

 

Welcome to the forum Jagguyx300,

Jaguar have come a long way since they specialised in soluble cars in the 1970's but our climate (I think you're in the UK) and road salt can still combine to nibble away at them.

You could access the inside of the sills through the treadplate fixing holes but getting protectant to the far ends where the rust gets hold would be difficult. Probably have to drill holes in the end plates for suitable access and plug them afterwards.

Worth removing the wheelarch liners for a thorough cleaning and surface treat any existing rust. The 'lips' on the wings hold road dirt. Keeping these clean helps avoid the regularly seen rot on the edges.

Please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some information about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see. In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.

Graham

 

fluidfilm. the only option in my opinion. I live in norway with salty roads and snow for 6 months of the year. fluidfilm effectively stops rust. but you have to apply it every 2 years or so.

I've used this stuff on many cars the last years and I am really impressed and pleased with it.

https://www.fluid-film.com/

 

 

Don't know if it will help or just scare you but this is what I found when I was looking into sorting out some "surface rust" on my X300. I had bubbling showing through on the sill and lower wing/fender. This is at the front end of the car, unlike yours being at the rear, but the set up is the same.

The wing/fender would have been an easy fix as it's a standalone part. The plan was to remove the wing (just some bolts) and cut off the offending part and weld in a replacement panel taken from my donor car.

The repair to the sill meant cutting off a section of the lower sill from my very clean donor car and using this to patch in the repair to my car.

But after cutting off the panel you can see what I found underneath. You can see that part of the actual structure has completely corroded away, and this is before anything has become evident on the outside. Given how clean the exterior of my donor sill section was, as opposed to the exterior of the sill section on my daily driver was, I could only imagine what it was like underneath.

The pictures might illustrate this better and show you what's going on underneath, in regard to both the actual construction and possible corrosion.

As previously stated, if you seal in the corrosion, it has nowhere left to go but out through the bodywork. I think a proper, more permanent fix is to cut away the damage, replace it, then seal things up and then do your final "cosmetic" finished repair.

Not wishing to frighten you, just to inform you and the best of luck with keeping your baby at her best.