Some brief newbie questions
#1
Some brief newbie questions
Hello. Recently bought a 95 VDP. Condition is good, mileage is 74k, well maintained as i've seen on records and by previous owner but some things are pushing me to open up the toolbox.
I am pretty sure there are answers here since these are aged cars and there should not be any problems rest unexperienced but if i may ask my small question in one topic then
1) Engine shakes a bit on cold and hot idle. No power lost, takes a throttle right away so doesn't look like regular misfire (have a record on two coils and six plugs replaced recently). Doesn't look like vacuum leak too - sprayed around with starting fluid with no rpm rise. No shake on "D" - can notice the engine works only by tacho and slight purr feel on the steering wheel. Any common approach on or leave it? Have IDS118.5 already and Rotunda VCM to be delivered this week if need to diagnose with a software.
2) Previous owner changed the oil before sale, and it is a 5W-20. Should i change it ASAP to something heavier? I have a feel that these engines like 10w-40ish or so. Oil gauge is a bit lower than "N" cold or hot.
3) The inner rubber waist seals on door windows. Missing both of them on right side. By EPC they are part of the door trim top piece and not sold separately but i clearly see them just slide into the chrome trim. By any chance is there a suitable aftermarket replacement? Don't want to buy a full trim although i've seen a few on ebay at reasonable price.
4) Trunk lights both doesn't work. Have power on both lights so probably either BCM doesn't receive a latch switch status or ground from BCM is not reaching the lights. Any common place to check the harness for the start? Like trunk hinge or elsewhere?
5) Seat memory only works at headrest. All other memory doesn't however manual adjustment works in every direction (except the lumbar - pump works but no inflation occurs). Steering column and mirrors memory works but as i understood it is a different controller.
Thanks in advance.
I am pretty sure there are answers here since these are aged cars and there should not be any problems rest unexperienced but if i may ask my small question in one topic then
1) Engine shakes a bit on cold and hot idle. No power lost, takes a throttle right away so doesn't look like regular misfire (have a record on two coils and six plugs replaced recently). Doesn't look like vacuum leak too - sprayed around with starting fluid with no rpm rise. No shake on "D" - can notice the engine works only by tacho and slight purr feel on the steering wheel. Any common approach on or leave it? Have IDS118.5 already and Rotunda VCM to be delivered this week if need to diagnose with a software.
2) Previous owner changed the oil before sale, and it is a 5W-20. Should i change it ASAP to something heavier? I have a feel that these engines like 10w-40ish or so. Oil gauge is a bit lower than "N" cold or hot.
3) The inner rubber waist seals on door windows. Missing both of them on right side. By EPC they are part of the door trim top piece and not sold separately but i clearly see them just slide into the chrome trim. By any chance is there a suitable aftermarket replacement? Don't want to buy a full trim although i've seen a few on ebay at reasonable price.
4) Trunk lights both doesn't work. Have power on both lights so probably either BCM doesn't receive a latch switch status or ground from BCM is not reaching the lights. Any common place to check the harness for the start? Like trunk hinge or elsewhere?
5) Seat memory only works at headrest. All other memory doesn't however manual adjustment works in every direction (except the lumbar - pump works but no inflation occurs). Steering column and mirrors memory works but as i understood it is a different controller.
Thanks in advance.
#2
Question 4 and 5 , see page X and Y
jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/jagxj1995.pdf
The 96 wiring guide is more complete and clearer , for 96 page 100 ( 89 square is a fuse which you have ) and 163 , NAS = North American Specification
jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/jagxj1996.pdf
" slight purr feel on the steering wheel "
Do a drain refill of 4 or 5 cycles until your cat quits purring
jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/jagxj1995.pdf
The 96 wiring guide is more complete and clearer , for 96 page 100 ( 89 square is a fuse which you have ) and 163 , NAS = North American Specification
jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/jagxj1996.pdf
" slight purr feel on the steering wheel "
Do a drain refill of 4 or 5 cycles until your cat quits purring
Last edited by Parker 7; 09-30-2024 at 06:28 PM.
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Ya Tigor (09-30-2024)
#7
I do not plan to do anything until i have a good reason. Although Jaguar is pretty unknown to me my qualification and experience on heavy duty trucks and Harleys make me think the regular practice "assemble the anamnesis - read the manual - ask adults for knowledge - make the differential diagnostics - have proper tools - try fix one thing a step" will work here too.
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#8
There is a coil wire color for the back 2 cylinders ( # 5 and # 6 ) that get easily crossed
Light Green / Orange # 5
Light Green / Purple # 6
cylinders are numbered from the very front as # 1
See the following pic
The pic is more clear if you double click it
Light Green / Orange # 5
Light Green / Purple # 6
cylinders are numbered from the very front as # 1
See the following pic
The pic is more clear if you double click it
Last edited by Parker 7; 09-30-2024 at 06:59 PM.
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Ya Tigor (09-30-2024)
#9
Personally I run 10w40 in my XJR. Since 5w20 wasn't really around when these cars were built, it may not be the best selection, viscosity-wise.
For your trunk light issue, I'd definitely check the wiring at the hinges. I haven't had any issues on mine, but I have gathered from the forums here it is a potential point of failure.
Your seat memory issues are likely the failing potentiometers. There's a piece inside that breaks and is a well documented issue on the forums here as well. They can be repaired - I literally just went through all this just last week and got things (mostly) working again as I had the same symptoms as you. Guy on That Auction Site sells a 5pc repair kit of 3D printed parts for about $60 if you search. You likely only need to replace 4 of them as the headrest is usually a non-issue. The backrest and fore/aft lift motors can be serviced w/ the seat unbolted but in the car. The forward/back potentiometer needs to be serviced w/ the seat out of the car and the track disassembled partially. Rivet gun and two 5/32" rivets needed for that. Search on the site here and in the X308 section for seat memory stuff as those later cars suffer the same issues. There is a TSB on the forums here somewhere that gives step by step tests w/ a voltmeter if you really feel like tackling it. It's not necessarily a hard job, but a bit tricky and time-consuming. I spent a weekend on it.
The lumbar pump can be accessed w/ the seat back removed and you may have a leaking/pinched air line or air bladder. Pump is in a little cloth baggie zip tied to the seat frame. The rubber rectangle you'll see is the air bladder. My air line kept kinking, so i used some hard fuel line to sort of reinforce it to help it keep its shape.
For your trunk light issue, I'd definitely check the wiring at the hinges. I haven't had any issues on mine, but I have gathered from the forums here it is a potential point of failure.
Your seat memory issues are likely the failing potentiometers. There's a piece inside that breaks and is a well documented issue on the forums here as well. They can be repaired - I literally just went through all this just last week and got things (mostly) working again as I had the same symptoms as you. Guy on That Auction Site sells a 5pc repair kit of 3D printed parts for about $60 if you search. You likely only need to replace 4 of them as the headrest is usually a non-issue. The backrest and fore/aft lift motors can be serviced w/ the seat unbolted but in the car. The forward/back potentiometer needs to be serviced w/ the seat out of the car and the track disassembled partially. Rivet gun and two 5/32" rivets needed for that. Search on the site here and in the X308 section for seat memory stuff as those later cars suffer the same issues. There is a TSB on the forums here somewhere that gives step by step tests w/ a voltmeter if you really feel like tackling it. It's not necessarily a hard job, but a bit tricky and time-consuming. I spent a weekend on it.
The lumbar pump can be accessed w/ the seat back removed and you may have a leaking/pinched air line or air bladder. Pump is in a little cloth baggie zip tied to the seat frame. The rubber rectangle you'll see is the air bladder. My air line kept kinking, so i used some hard fuel line to sort of reinforce it to help it keep its shape.
#10
Thanks guys for the input. Looks pretty simple to work on these cars so i will assemble everything to do it in one shot. There is a radio issue too (original looks like working only on right front channel and the display is black so i am researching now on two headunit options to replace and upgrade the whole system) so probably it would be good idea to strip the interior once and get done everything i can.
#11
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Newport Beach, California
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Best to stick with the factory specification for engine oil.
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Don B (10-01-2024),
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#12
#13
With the VDP you probably have a CD player in the trunk with a separate final stage speaker amplifier , with this setup the to the speaker wires come from the trunk
With the standard setup with the exact same Jaguar / Alpine AJ9500A head the speaker wires come from front at the head unit
The speaker amplifiers in the standard setup are 2 X 2 Toshiba 25 amps per 4 channels , you can change them as easily exposed inside the head
There are a couple of fuses to check for display lights , the ? mark in the pic is the lighting pins
If you have the original speakers they will most likely be dry rotted and are cheaply repaired by yourself
in the premium setup the round cable to the trunk gets pinched in the center consol , you can free it up wiggle the pinch and give it a try
The head unit can be moded by yourself for an input jack to play any source
With the standard setup with the exact same Jaguar / Alpine AJ9500A head the speaker wires come from front at the head unit
The speaker amplifiers in the standard setup are 2 X 2 Toshiba 25 amps per 4 channels , you can change them as easily exposed inside the head
There are a couple of fuses to check for display lights , the ? mark in the pic is the lighting pins
If you have the original speakers they will most likely be dry rotted and are cheaply repaired by yourself
in the premium setup the round cable to the trunk gets pinched in the center consol , you can free it up wiggle the pinch and give it a try
The head unit can be moded by yourself for an input jack to play any source
Last edited by Parker 7; 10-01-2024 at 05:05 PM.
#14
With your spot of stumble under the bonnet
Have you changed the main fuel filter ?
In the park gate the injector pulse width ( time ) is such
In your other gate the pulse width is increased to cover your stumble
There is the fuel pump relay you can jumper to make up for an underperforming pump between socket 3 to 5 , this will drain the battery with the keys in your pocket ( hot at all times ) , use blade type connectors for better contact and keep the jumper in the trunk for down the road
Have you changed the main fuel filter ?
In the park gate the injector pulse width ( time ) is such
In your other gate the pulse width is increased to cover your stumble
There is the fuel pump relay you can jumper to make up for an underperforming pump between socket 3 to 5 , this will drain the battery with the keys in your pocket ( hot at all times ) , use blade type connectors for better contact and keep the jumper in the trunk for down the road
Last edited by Parker 7; 10-01-2024 at 05:14 PM.
#16
Join Date: Nov 2012
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I had similar idle symptoms on my 96 X300 4.0 litre Sport when I bought it.
Compression was down in two cylinders and a leak down check showed it was exhaust valves.
I found a Jaguar service bulletin which really pertained to the supercharged models which detailed exhaust valve fouling if the car was only driven around town at low speeds.
This car had a history of around town use so I had nothing to lose by trying the suggested "fix" of giving it some serious driving at speed.
I loaded up the fuel with heaps of upper cylinder lubricant and gave the engine a real flogging in lower gears and high revs while holding highway speeds.
After 30 miles it cleared up and all compressions were even. The hot and cold idle was now smooth.
It is definitely worth a try.
Compression was down in two cylinders and a leak down check showed it was exhaust valves.
I found a Jaguar service bulletin which really pertained to the supercharged models which detailed exhaust valve fouling if the car was only driven around town at low speeds.
This car had a history of around town use so I had nothing to lose by trying the suggested "fix" of giving it some serious driving at speed.
I loaded up the fuel with heaps of upper cylinder lubricant and gave the engine a real flogging in lower gears and high revs while holding highway speeds.
After 30 miles it cleared up and all compressions were even. The hot and cold idle was now smooth.
It is definitely worth a try.
#17
I had similar idle symptoms on my 96 when I bought it.X300 4.0 litre Sport
I loaded up the fuel with heaps of upper cylinder lubricant and gave the engine a real flogging in lower gears and high revs while holding highway speeds.
After 30 miles it cleared up and all compressions were even. The hot and cold idle was now smooth.
It is definitely worth a try.
I loaded up the fuel with heaps of upper cylinder lubricant and gave the engine a real flogging in lower gears and high revs while holding highway speeds.
After 30 miles it cleared up and all compressions were even. The hot and cold idle was now smooth.
It is definitely worth a try.
#18
I bought a 95 VDP a few months ago, 121k miles. Mine came with a standard radio, and also only plays primarily on the right side. I am able to turn off / on the radio seemingly at random every few days, otherwise I am unable to turn it on / off or adjust the volume. I "think" that I have heated seats, although the car has never seen snow or salt, and never will. I will only drive it in the summer.
#19
Your question # 1 : idle shakes
There is a thing of the transmission electrical connector getting fowled as the transmission ECU and engine ECU cross talk to each other as they dance together
This from reading others accurse at low idle just coming out of park detent , maybe in the park detent also ?
Do not just twist off the connector on the cars left as there is a trick
You can clean this without jacking the car
There is a thing of the transmission electrical connector getting fowled as the transmission ECU and engine ECU cross talk to each other as they dance together
This from reading others accurse at low idle just coming out of park detent , maybe in the park detent also ?
Do not just twist off the connector on the cars left as there is a trick
You can clean this without jacking the car
Last edited by Parker 7; 10-02-2024 at 12:25 AM.
#20