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Was researching the removal procedure of the idle air control valve, and according to all-data the steps look more involved than expected from just looking at it.
From looking at it I expected to just have to disconnect the plug and remove the 2 screws. Can anybody who has done it chime in on the process? Here is what I found in alldata....
Disconnect battery.
- - Remove the intake elbow to throttle housing hose.
Disconnect idle speed control valve multi-plug.
Disconnect throttle potentiometer multi-plug.
Remove clevis pin circlip.
Reposition link arm from quadrant.
Disconnect kick down cable (where fitted) from quadrant.
Open throttle fully and disconnect inner cable from quadrant.
Carefully release throttle against stop.
Fit pipe clamps to throttle body heater feed and return hose.
Disconnect feed hose from throttle body stub pipe.
Remove throttle body assembly from inlet manifold.
Remove idle speed control valve from throttle body.
Remove gasket.
Retrieve distance piece from throttle body recess.
Refit in the reverse order of the removal procedure.
You don't need an Acetylene Torch, just a small 'pinpoint' flame or good Heat Gun to get the Thread Locker to soften. Those Butane 'micro-torches' will work.
I usually heat a little and put a socket on the screw. Give a little 'turning' pressure' and if it does not seem like it's going to release, I heat a little more.
Just don't 'horse-it' and snap it off on the first try. Work it like you want to re-use the Throttle assy.
Thanks for the tip, could have possibly saved me a lot of trouble as I was planning to just remove it normally. But first I want to test it further. I rather just buy a new one and replace it than clean the current one.
I was sitting in my car in a parking lot talking with a friend when I noticed it idling pretty rough. I got out and unplugged it and it smoothed out pretty much instantly. I have had it stall out at idle and soon after start up a few times, but it hasn't happened in a long time, so I never worried about it. I want to spend some more time diagnosing when I get a chance before I buy the part.
Lol I meant buy a new iacv not throttle body. Sorry for the confusion.
ThaT won't spare you from the hazard Bob's warning you about - you'll still need clean mounting holes in your throttle-body, bereft of tiny, brass broken screws to secure that new IACV....
ThaT won't spare you from the hazard Bob's warning you about - you'll still need clean mounting holes in your throttle-body, bereft of tiny, brass broken screws to secure that new IACV....
I know, I will take his advice. Just was clearing up that I was planning on buying a new IACV and not a throttle body.
I think the GM IACV is the same as the Jaguar.
My 1988 Chev PU has the older style IACV and is the same as the 1988 Jaguar 3.6 XJ40.
That one threads in and has a SQUARE plug.
The later ones are the rectangular plug and should be the SAME for both GM and Jaguar.
I see a Lucas IACV for $165. Not cheap, but nothing that'll break the bank.
The GM one is around $70 for the ACDelco part number #217-421. And I'm sure you can find it much cheaper in a different brand. Would be an interesting experiment.
The threadlocking compound on the screws will sometimes cause you to snap the small fastener off in the TB.
Been there, done that! However, I was replacing the throttle body anyway because it was gummed up and repeated cleanings didn't fix it. Throttle wouldn't return to idle from small openings, so I replaced the body. I broke the small bolts transferring the IAC across to the new TB.