Hi everyone not been on here for a while and hope this is ok to post here ive now got a 1995 xj6 3.2 auto and have got a few problems to get her to start I have to in a way jiggle the gear lever until the P lights up red but then it takes a while actualy get her started can anyone give me a idea please on what it could be or to check for why its taking that long to crank over


as simple answers as possible please not very mechanically minded


many thanks in advance

 

Do you mean that it's turning over, but not catching? If so, try turning the ignition to 'on' for a couple of seconds, then off again - repeat ~3 times, then try starting it.

If it's turning over slowly, the first thing to check would be the battery!

 

hi thankyou for the reply it does start every time but it takes a while to turn over the other jags ive had and cranked over straight but they were x and s types, this old bus takes ages to get going

 

If you have to jiggle the gear shift, then the "Not in Park" inhibitor switch is probably out of kilter. This is a switch that prevents the car from starting if it's in gear or "Not in Park". it can also be started in Neutral though.

Try turning the key and while holding it the start position, move the gearshift very slowly from park and down into neutral. Otherwise, check your battery and the connections at the terminals. Maybe remove and clean them, and ensure a good tight connection.

 

hi thanks for the reply the chap I got the car from said unless the p is lite up red it wont start and just to move the gear stick a little until it lights up once its red the car does start but its taking some time to turn over

 

OK, I think I got it.

The P lights up eventually, so the switch pack on the RH side of the J Gate assembly (under the ski slope) needs adjusting, and/or cleaning. Many, many write ups on that in the archives, even one from me "I think??".

That will sort that little issue.

The endless cranking is usually the "cam angle sensor" out of phase. That sensor is best described as the "whizzy thing where a distributor lived in an earlier model". It has a tin plate on its top with a clear plastic viewing window for timing. RHF corner of the engine.

Again, I reckon there is stuff in the archives on that setting.

There will be many items on this list, but that Cam Sensor phasing is the most common in my opinion. Mine was out, and cranked too long for my liking, and once I retimed it, the engine fires first rotation EVERY time.

 

I would definitely look at the inhibit switch. It's under the ski slope, to the right hand side of the gear shifter. It's easy to get at and may just need to be adjusted/cleaned.

Remove the cigarette lighter and ashtray, disconnect the wiring connectors on same.
Open the centre console storage box and remove the two Philips head screws at the front, beside the magnetic catch.
Locate the two plastic wing nuts beneath the back end of the ski slope and remove them.
Carefully prise up the gearshift surround, plastic/chrome. This is held in place with plastic tangs, so be careful, they can break off!
Move the gear stick if needed and lift the ski slope up and away.
You will then see the switch and can study its' operation when you move the gear stick. It's a micro switch with a spring arm and this can be gently bent if needed.
Adjust where necessary, spray a little contact cleaner in and see how it goes.

Hope this helps and keep us posted.

 

you have got it that's what I mean its cranking for far to long to fire up I get what your saying but havnt a clue where to start for you guys its probs easy but for me its over my head so maybe a garage job to re time it then? the P lighting up thing il see if I can find a few pics or videos before trying to sort it don't want to make it worse lol


again thanks for taking the time to help

 

Thanks for posting this its much appreciated sorry for being so dumb but is there a step by step guide with pictures

 

First, just to clarify, the above diagnosis and procedure is for an engine that doesn't turn over. You will, in effect have absolutely nothing happening when you turn the key. That said, I think Grant is on the right track in regard to your problem. The step by step that I gave for removing the ski slope (that's the wooden panel on the centre console housing the gear shifter) is all there is to it. just a minor point, remove the two Philips screws first, in order to remove the ashtray.

There are many posts on this topic, (due to dodgy radios) and a search will possibly throw up some pictures. Likewise with the sensor mentioned by Grant. It's not rocket science, just about!

Have faith and once you start doing these little jobs your confidence and familiarity will grow enormously.

 

Thanks again for all who has replied to my thread I have searched for the cam sensor but only seem to find posts where its mentioned its likely the culprit for hard starting cranking to long etc


can someone please add a link to how you actualy repair, check, replace, time it


..Cam Sensor phasing..


many thanks

 

OK.

I will do a word doco on it tonight with snaps, and try and post here.

If that dont work I will PM you with it.

Sit tight, your in the UK, drink some "warm beer" or a COLD Fosters. I am off to sort the Black Beast that some clown defaced with a golf club, NOT HAPPY.

 

Here ya go.

If it makes no, or little sense, let me know I will sort.

I do, sadly, assume people know a little, and sometimes I get is soooooo wrong. Good thing we have "edit" HAHA.

Setting the Cam Angle Sensor on an AJ16 engine.doc

 

Many thanks your a star! printed it off ready

 

fingers crossed the cranking problem will be cured over the weekend when I get some tools of my brother and a extra pair of eyes/hands lol


in the mean time im having ago with the inhibit switch ive followed the instructions I think how do you get to the actual switch that needs adjusting? ive taken a pic of where ive got to lol and thanks for being patient

 

Ok, on he picture above you will see two plastic wing nuts hanging down from the inner lip of the ski slope. One will be just above the grey cable and the other will be opposite, just above the wiring loom. Undo these wing nuts and the ski slope will lift up and out. Its only held in place around the radio using Velcro, so nothing to break!

The bolts that the wing nuts screw onto may fall out, no worries, as they will simply slide back into place. You will understand fully once you take the ski slope out. By the way, this is the same procedure used to get the radio and clock out, which you may well need to do at some time, due to high failure rate. Oops, just noticed that you don't have the stock radio! You will see the various screws holding them in, after the ski slope is removed.

The micro switch in question will be clearly visible on the right hand side of the shifter. That's on a right hand drive but I think it's the same regardless of where the steering wheel is.

You'll see the little metal tang that activates the switch, move this back and forth, gently and listen for the switch clicking consistently. Clean, as mentioned and adjust as necessary.

Remember, this is a possible cure for a non cranking "dead" car. If it's turning over but not starting then your problem lies elsewhere.

Best of luck!

 

quick update looks like the switch has been adjusted before as the 4 Philips screws were a tad chewed up ive fiddled around with it but its still the same to be honest wiggle the shifter for it to light up red





pic abouve to show you what it was like

 

Well, whatever else, it's a learning curve! It's no harm to get in and start investigating things, thereby developing a better understanding of how things work (or don't!). Unrelated, while you are in there beneath the ski slope, you will see the "shift lock solenoid" on the left hand side. This is the device that "clicks" and releases a locking mechanism, when you press on the brake, allowing the shifter to be moved.

These solenoids can fail, but it can be bypassed manually by removing the torx head screw to the left of the shifter, on top of the ski slope.

Just insert your key/ biro/ similar to disengage the switch.

 

I just dealt with this today, the "very long cranking" also was running a bit rough at times at idle. Then on the way home I got a "check engine" light. The code was P0411 which related to the secondary air system which is fine working order.

So I replaced the crank sensor and now everything is back to normal. It may be how my code reader interpolates a crank code, but this has solved my extended cranking times.

 

I think this shift lock solenoid is acting up in my '95 XJ6 now. I have to wait maybe 5 or 10 seconds before the park lock is disengaged during cold starts, sometimes no wait and I can move the shifter right away.

What is the purpose of this lock?

I'm wondering if I should bypass the solenoid as suggested above, or clean it (if cleaning it is the solution).

thoughts?