Throttle problem!! Help!!
#1
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Hello again everyone. I was driving yesterday on the highway and my when i put my foot on the gas i got nothing. I had to floor it just to get it to accelerate. And after a minute or so i floor it again and nothing. I wasnt getting any gas at all. The engine was idling fine and no codes showed up either. I pulle to the side of the highway and jiggled the butterfly on the throttle body and it worked for a minute and then the same problem again. Is there any way to fix this?? And what causes this? Please help, i almost got killed out there, thanx again guys.
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#7
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Ok, i"m having that sticky throttle problem again. It seems to happen when its very warm outside. I have a 1996 xj6 4.0 with the mechanical throttle. I was wondering if i could use some wd40 on the springs to lubricate them so they will work better or is there something else i could do.
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#8
#9
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i have a 95 and 96 xj6,one of them suffered throttle problems.the fix is to remove some small surounding parts its[ been awhile]to gain acess to throttle plate pivots,shoot wd40 at these points as you hand work the throttle.mine was stiking at high idle,but stll these cars with some age need this done.good luck...steve
#10
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Ok...just did this the other day. I had the sticky throttle and you have to be careful as the gas pedal and assembly is plastic! You may have thought that you were flooring the gas pedal when you were actually doing nothing but bending it to the floor! Now... I am sorry to say this but I have researched the hell out of this topic and what I have learned is that most people that purchased these cars tend to be on the higher side of the income scale or are worried about what the joneses are driving so they financed themselves to the hilt to drive one of these but I have yet to come across any real mechanics on any of the forums. These cars are not easy to work on. You can get any kind of used car for 3-4 thousand but most other cars can be repaired by the typical backyard mechanic.
Now to answer this question that MANY have asked once and for all..... You need to remove your intake boot and hoses and then remove the throttle body. Depending on how bad yours is.... you may have to replace it. Dirty is ok... corrosion is a different story. Once you clean out the entire TB bore to looking like brand new... Look for a little adjusting allen head screw that is on the left side rear post of the throttle body. It appears to be a idle screw but that is not its purpose. The flap that you see inside your TB is not suppose to close all the way. Right now it is as well as getting stuck on the dirt and corrosion. After cleaning the unit.... Adjust that screw so the flap stays open .02. Yous should just be able to see a little light through it when fully closed. Now another problem is getting solvent into the throttle positioning sensor on the bottom. Do not do this when cleaning! CAREFULLY undo the two screw and remove the sensor when cleaning. The other sensor is the IACV. do not attempt to remove this as the two bolts almost always snap off dur to thread lock from the factory and them being weeny little bolts.
Reassemble the throttle body back on the car and start it up. Most likely you will have a high idle around 1500-1800 rpms. You cannot fix this and it will not go away anytime soon with a hard reset or disconnect of the battery. This is real mechanic stuff and the car must be brought into the dealer to have the ecu re-flashed to accept the clean and re-adjusted throttle body. Car will be back to new again!
Now to answer this question that MANY have asked once and for all..... You need to remove your intake boot and hoses and then remove the throttle body. Depending on how bad yours is.... you may have to replace it. Dirty is ok... corrosion is a different story. Once you clean out the entire TB bore to looking like brand new... Look for a little adjusting allen head screw that is on the left side rear post of the throttle body. It appears to be a idle screw but that is not its purpose. The flap that you see inside your TB is not suppose to close all the way. Right now it is as well as getting stuck on the dirt and corrosion. After cleaning the unit.... Adjust that screw so the flap stays open .02. Yous should just be able to see a little light through it when fully closed. Now another problem is getting solvent into the throttle positioning sensor on the bottom. Do not do this when cleaning! CAREFULLY undo the two screw and remove the sensor when cleaning. The other sensor is the IACV. do not attempt to remove this as the two bolts almost always snap off dur to thread lock from the factory and them being weeny little bolts.
Reassemble the throttle body back on the car and start it up. Most likely you will have a high idle around 1500-1800 rpms. You cannot fix this and it will not go away anytime soon with a hard reset or disconnect of the battery. This is real mechanic stuff and the car must be brought into the dealer to have the ecu re-flashed to accept the clean and re-adjusted throttle body. Car will be back to new again!
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hi guys,all i can tell you is what worked for me.spray and work ,spray and work,i'm careful not to over-spray[flood] the assy.an hour of work beats dealer repair prices as i'm retired.i love the car,and if i thought it would mess it up i wouldn't have recomended this process...steve.
#13
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Glad your issue appears to have been resolved. If you thought you were going to die because you couldn't get your car to move, imagine the opposite? That's what happened to me.
The butterfly stuck OPEN and the car kept accelerating. I would shift into neutral and watch the RPM's fly upwards of 4K. A strong smack on the pedal would temporarily unstick the throttle, but as soon as I shifted to drive and accelerated again, away we would go. Talk about dangerous!
The throttle body was cleaned of gunk and corrosion but that lasted about one week before the sticking started again. At that point, the butterfly was replaced. No problems with it since, but it sure made for an interesting two weeks...
The butterfly stuck OPEN and the car kept accelerating. I would shift into neutral and watch the RPM's fly upwards of 4K. A strong smack on the pedal would temporarily unstick the throttle, but as soon as I shifted to drive and accelerated again, away we would go. Talk about dangerous!
The throttle body was cleaned of gunk and corrosion but that lasted about one week before the sticking started again. At that point, the butterfly was replaced. No problems with it since, but it sure made for an interesting two weeks...
#14
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11-13-2015 11:01 AM
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