This has just recently happened. A few days ago I've been hearing a klunk after I've used the FOB to unlock the boot and only when I raise it up a little when this happens. Now the FOB doesn't work on the boot at all. Also the button on the trunk finisher doesn't work either. I can use the key to unlock it. No fuses are blown and radio and cig lighter also works. The dash button doesn't work, but not sure if that's related or not because I've never really use it. Oh, I almost forgot after you stop and turn off the car and open the door the boot doesn't unlock then either. Is it a faulty button on the finisher that's the problem? Any help on this guys is very appreciated!

 

I don't understand the bit about the klunk, sorry.

One common problem is that the wires at the trunk lid hinge break, rendering the electric release inoperative.

Cheers
DD

 

Yea, that noise may be unrelated, I haven't checked that harness yet. But the lights work in the luggage area and tag lights work also. I had the trunk not work once since I've own her but the radio didn't work either, that was a fuse in the luggage area. That's the first place I've looked.

 

There are two rods that work the trunk latch--one is a direct mechanical link between the trunk lock cylinder (where you insert the key in the trunklid) and the trunk latch, while the other one is a link between the electric trunk lock actuator (which is activated by either the trunk release button inside the car, the button on the trunk finisher, or the keyless entry fob). It is possible, though unlikely, that the rod from the actuator to the trunk latch has become disconnected. If this is the case, when you push the button on the trunk finisher, you should hear the electric actuator in the trunk but the trunk will not unlatch. If you push the button on the trunk finisher and hear no noise at all, then most likely the wire in the trunk hinge harness is broken. But don't forget to check the fuse, too!

 

I am having the same problem with a 2004 VDP. Please tell me where thSt fuse is located so I can replace it. Cant find it listed on any fuse chart.

 

I have an '97 X300, mine is located in the trunk fuse panel, i think it's the only one that's a 15 amp, blue on there. It also is on the same circuit as the radio.

 

UPDATE: Well, I broke down and took the trunk lid liner down and looked at that harness at the hinge. Well, low and behold, someone had already been there before me and there were splices galore. After looking at the splices I did find one (black) that was broken. I did a quick splice and it worked.....YEA! Now I need to take a better look at the rest of them and tape up the bunch.

 

Glad to hear it's fixed!

 

Me too! I was about to tear out the whole trunk to find out what was wrong. LOL Thanks guys! There is a whole lot of info and experience on this site. I've learned a lot here!

 

When I bought it 3 weeks ago the trunk worked from the dash switch. It quit working. I've tried using a coat hanger thru the license plate holes in the trunk lid to catch the rod and release the lid, so I can check the fuse and actuator, but I couldn't make it release and I caught a wire or something and was afraid I'd rip it loose. Can the trunk lid be released if I remove the back seat back and reach or crawl through into the trunk, or will I just be wasting my time removing the seat back?

 

No way to crawl thru,gas tank is mounted above rear axle and there is a steel partition behind the seat back.

 

The key won't work?

 

So far I haven't been able to get the trunk open, but I haven't gotten to the valet switch wiring to see if that's the problem and the key doesn't work in the rear of the car, nor does the button in the middle of the trunk with or without the key in the trunk. My wife said she pushed the valet switch shortly after I got the car, so that may be what stopped the trunk from working, since it was working when for the first week or so I had the car.

I think this switch may be broken internally and won't release the valet function. If this is the case, I should be able to jumper it out and get the system working.

By the way, @Lumppy47, I removed the rear seat bottom and then realized by feeling up behind the seat back that you couldn't get through into the trunk, and I found 69 cents and a Mex. peso under the seat. Yahoo!

 

When you eventually get the trunk open remember to lubricate the key lock mechanism so it'll work if another problem should arise in the future. They seize up from lack of use.

Cheers
DD

 

Bob Stafford,

How did you get the trunk liner out without ripping the liner? Do you get access to the button with it out?

 

The boot/trunk lid liner is held in place by a series of push fir tree clips around the perimeter, and the two bolts that hold the lock cover in place. There are a couple of fir tree clips toward the centre of the lid.

 

Is there a tool to remove those plugs? I've never had success removing them without destroying the thing they hold in place.

 

I used a slim trim removal tool. Y shaped end, but very slim to get under the heads of the clips. My tool is as old as the hills.

 

After tracking the wires that originate at the push button and finding it shares the wire bundle with the license plate lights ( number lights in England) I followed them from the trunk (boot) through the boot and through the body to see where they went. I decided to open up the casing with an Exacto knife to see if any wire were broken. After exposing the wires at the trunk hinge, I pulled on the wires and wow...both positive leads were severed. The wires are red and blue striped for both the license plate lights and the push button. I soldered the correct wires together and used shrink wrap to keep them secure and then found a blown fuse. Now all works great.

 

This is what's wrong with my car. The actuater works but wont open. When you hit the trunk button you hear the trunk make the release sound then closes. And the key wont open trunk either. I think the trunk latch is off track? If it is how can I get trunk to open if the latch is no good?