Uneven tyre wear.
#1
Uneven tyre wear.
Hi all. I changed the brake pads all round, during the week and thankfully, all went well and without incident. However, when I had the rear wheels off, I noticed some excessive wear on the inner corner on one of the tyres. FWIW it's the rear passenger side (RHD). The tyres are only about 6 months old, so in excellent shape generally.
Tyre pressure is correct, so might this be some sort of camber issue? No rumbles from the wheels and I also replaced the rear shocks recently.
Any thoughts appreciated. Just an aside and possibly relevant, I notice that when I turn, from stopped, out onto right hand turn, (wider than a left as we drive on the left here), if I push hard at all, the car seems to give a little skip, or shimmy at the rear. Would this possibly be anti roll bar bushes? (On my "to do" list)
Thanks in advance.
Tyre pressure is correct, so might this be some sort of camber issue? No rumbles from the wheels and I also replaced the rear shocks recently.
Any thoughts appreciated. Just an aside and possibly relevant, I notice that when I turn, from stopped, out onto right hand turn, (wider than a left as we drive on the left here), if I push hard at all, the car seems to give a little skip, or shimmy at the rear. Would this possibly be anti roll bar bushes? (On my "to do" list)
Thanks in advance.
#2
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sogood (01-25-2014)
#3
unless the camber on the right rear is beyond 2 degrees negative, it is more likely rear toe being incorrect. and yes it will contribute to that skippy feel.
unlike the front, the rears are non-steering .. thus you can get one tire wearing because of incorrect toe while the other appears fine.
unlike the front, the rears are non-steering .. thus you can get one tire wearing because of incorrect toe while the other appears fine.
#4
unless the camber on the right rear is beyond 2 degrees negative, it is more likely rear toe being incorrect. and yes it will contribute to that skippy feel.
unlike the front, the rears are non-steering .. thus you can get one tire wearing because of incorrect toe while the other appears fine.
unlike the front, the rears are non-steering .. thus you can get one tire wearing because of incorrect toe while the other appears fine.
#6
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#11
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I come up with:
JLM12154 for VIN 755999 and earlier.
JLM12241 VIN 756000 and later
I don't know what the difference is between the two. I suspect it's subtle. Both part numbers were used on various XJ40 and X300 models
Personally I'm a bit suspicious of aftermarket springs. Over the years I've heard so many stories from those who changed springs and ended up too high or too low. I think they (the aftermarket springs) are often made to semi-generic specs in order to (almost) work on as many models as possible under a single part number.
OTOH, in *this* case, the original specification/part number does have a very wide application so you'd probably be OK. Still, I'd want to speak with the vendor and gets plenty of assurances. Or hear from other Jag wners who have had good results with a particular spring from a particular vendor
If the true OEM replacements from a Jag dealer are not too costly (ha!) I'd certainly give consideration to buying them. Or buy from a vendor who is selling true OEM parts rather then brand-x replacements.
There's a fair bit of labor involved. It's not a job you'd wanna do twice.
Cheers
DD
JLM12154 for VIN 755999 and earlier.
JLM12241 VIN 756000 and later
I don't know what the difference is between the two. I suspect it's subtle. Both part numbers were used on various XJ40 and X300 models
Personally I'm a bit suspicious of aftermarket springs. Over the years I've heard so many stories from those who changed springs and ended up too high or too low. I think they (the aftermarket springs) are often made to semi-generic specs in order to (almost) work on as many models as possible under a single part number.
OTOH, in *this* case, the original specification/part number does have a very wide application so you'd probably be OK. Still, I'd want to speak with the vendor and gets plenty of assurances. Or hear from other Jag wners who have had good results with a particular spring from a particular vendor
If the true OEM replacements from a Jag dealer are not too costly (ha!) I'd certainly give consideration to buying them. Or buy from a vendor who is selling true OEM parts rather then brand-x replacements.
There's a fair bit of labor involved. It's not a job you'd wanna do twice.
Cheers
DD
#12
Part no. JLM12165 | Road spring kit parts from Jaguar Classic Parts UK
#13
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Hmmm, not sure but seems any of these will work? JLM12165 is also for X300 according to JDHT?
Part no. JLM12165 | Road spring kit parts from Jaguar Classic Parts UK
Part no. JLM12165 | Road spring kit parts from Jaguar Classic Parts UK
The info I posted was from JDHT as well. Not sure what the difference is between the two part numbers.
The VIN break mentioned falls into 1995 model year VIN range.....I think.
<shrug>
Cheers
DD
#14
Update
Went to my tyre/wheel man today and had the tracking done (front was a tad off) and got the toe in corrected on the offending rear, as well as having the other rear checked out. All is good now and handling is definitely noticeably better, with no real "wander" or tramlining. This had been present to a minor degree, but I think I just got used to it!
Car doesn't "skip" on the turns, as previously mentioned and just seems to hold and handle better. I'll replace the worn tyre with my new spare and keep an eye on it, and the others, for any future wear patterns.
Happy camper!
Car doesn't "skip" on the turns, as previously mentioned and just seems to hold and handle better. I'll replace the worn tyre with my new spare and keep an eye on it, and the others, for any future wear patterns.
Happy camper!
#16
#18
Does anyone know what the rear toe should be? The fulcrum bearings have failed and my retired Dad kindly made a start for me whilst I was at work but he did not mark the position of the eccentric bolt so the toe setting has been lost. The tyres wore evenly and the car handled well before so anoying. I guess they should be parallel or slight toe in to compensate for the negative camber.
Thanks,
John
Thanks,
John
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