Hey Lads,

So my diff has whined since day 1 of getting this car.
No better, no worse it just whines and its annoying. I have replaced the stub axle bearings and wheel bearings appear to be in good shape. I had my local boys drain and refill the diff as that crap stinks............lol. They said a lot of metal shavings came out with the oil so I am thinking it's getting to almost being done.

Question is:
Up to what year can I go in my search for a replacement diff?
Not sure when they changed and my car is a 1996

Also,
I haven't looked yet but is there anything else back there that could cause this whining noise based on others experience? Hanger bearings or anything?

Cheers
Bernie

 

All JURID flange sedans from about 1988/89 to 1997 will bolt in as long as the ratio is the same (3.58:1= Orange and White, maybe Red/White??) If it has a Black Cross it is a Limited Slip.

The really early 1988 XJ40 cars have a different ratio and a 4 bolt U-Joint flange.

The XJ40 diffs have a different thread pitch (M10X1.00 vs M10X1.25) in the housing above the pinion shaft.
Some have studs and some have bolts but they will all fit with the correct fasteners if you need to change them.

I have several diffs laying around my shop. If you were closer, I would say to drop by and find a suitable replacement.

The Pinion Bearings are not that hard to replace. (that is what fails and whines).
Just mark everything and put it back the same way it was with the new bearings.

A replacement might be a 'whiner' also?? They were prone to do that. I must have replaced dozens when I worked at the dealer. I got really good at pinion bearing replacement years ago.

bob

 

Bernie,

Bob really knows his stuff and was very helpful to me when I was preparing to rebuild the diff in our '93, which is probably the same GKN Salisbury 15HU as in your '96. He's also right that there is no guarantee that a replacement used diff won't whine immediately or in the near future.

Unfortunately the X308 diffs won't work because the output shafts are different.

To give you an idea of what is involved in replacing the failing pinion bearings, below are links to photos of the job on our car. Bob advised me to consider leaving the stub axle carrier bearings alone if the diff hasn't run low on oil, because they are not under much stress. If I ever do the job again I will seriously consider reusing the old carrier bearings if they appear to be in good condition, since figuring out the new shims for the new bearings was the hardest part of the job. If you just replace the pinion bearings and get the preload right it's not that much more work than swapping in a new diff. Beyond basic tools, the only requirements are a means of applying about 500 ft. lbs. of torque to the pinion nut to deform the crush sleeve just the right amount to set the preload, and a good inch-pound torque wrench to measure the preload so you know when it is within the specified range.

Differential Removal & Installation Part 1 of 4
Differential Removal & Installation Part 2 of 4
Differential Removal & Installation Part 3 of 4
Differential Removal & Installation Part 4 of 4

Differential Rebuild Part 1 of 4
Differential Rebuild Part 2 of 4
Differential Rebuild Part 3 of 4
Differential Rebuild Part 4 of 4

Cheers,

Don

 

I had a whine on a previous diff and I could make it go more quiet if I used the heavier 140 weight synthetic gear oil.

 

That may not be the best solution, since using a higher viscosity oil than specified can not only have an adverse impact on fuel economy but can cause the differential gears to overheat....

 

Thanks guys,

Bob, what do you think I would be into cost wise if you rebuilt one of the ones you have there?