Seems to only show after starting down the road while it's cold. It goes away after some driving for quite a bit in the cooler weather and a restart. Where should I look?

 

I had the same problem, but not temperature dependent. But now it happens every time I start the car and drive away. Yesterday I cleaned the wheel sensors and checked the continuity of the front cables, so this morning I'll see if there is any change. I'm not expecting any change as the sensors were not dirty.
The newer cars are easier to trouble shoot because the sensors plug into the cables, making it easy to switch to a known good cable.

 

Diagnosis is difficult as none of the affordable DIY level scan tools will read the ABS codes. There's a bit of by-guess-and-by-golly to the curing ABS problems.

Over the years (and 115k miles) I've had the ABS light come on 3-4 times.

Once it was a loose reluctor ring at one of the rear wheels. The other times I've managed to "fix" the problem by removing/cleaning/re-seating the connectors at the ABS unit itself. Now that I think of it I haven't had the light come on in quite some time...knock on wood.

There's a known problem with the circuit boards inside the ABS control modules. I suspect the disconnect/re-connect routine jiggles the innards in "just" the right way.

ModuleMasters repairs the control modules. I've never gotten 'round to sending mine out. If nothing else pans out in your case you might consider having your control module repaired.

Cheers
DD

 

Thanks Doug, My module was replaced shortly before I bought the car last year, but that doesn't prove anything. The check of the sensors/rings yesterday was good, but the problem is still there today. Re seating the plugs worth a try.
I am tempted to sell this car and buy a XJ8 so I can use my Autoenginuity, but a small fortune was spent by the previous owner replacing the things that usually need to be fixed on this model, so it should be good for a few years.

 

OR do it yourself for less down-time and money: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...c-fault-44272/

But I wouldn't go cutting into the module without first confirming a C1095 code.

RJ, if you have AutoEnginuity with Jag module, I would think that would read chassis codes? Or put another way....if you can read an X308, you should be able to read the X300? But I may be wrong....

 

The '95 X300 was the first OBD II Jag. My Autoenginuity software works great on my '97 XK8 but cannot even read engine codes on my XJ6. It may work on the later years, especially the'97, but I have not had an opportunity to find out.
Today I removed the rear seat and checked the rear sensors. They read about 1125 ohms, like the front and respond to wheel rotation. I also cleaned the connections to the ABS module.
What I should also have done is check that there is power to the cable connections. Now I have something to do tomorrow.

 

Maybe I was wrong about engine codes, I have not had a CEL yet. I should probably generate one and make sure.

 

ELM327 BT with Torque for Android reads the OBDII on my 95, likewise a $30 corded handheld scanner I bought before I discovered the bluetooth option. But when it comes to something other than powertrain codes....I head to Motorcarman's to get him to take a look with WDS.

FWIW, when I bought the car, it displayed that behavior: ABS light after a couple hundred yards of travel, always off after shutdown/restart but back on within a few hundred yards. Bob confirmed C1095 and I drove it a year or two working up the courage to bend the brakelines to remove the module and then cut it apart.
Mine never went off by itself - other than with a shutdown.

 

aholbro, I keep trying to apply logic to troubleshooting these cars, and that doesn't seem to work. It makes no sense that a c1095 should come on after a hundred yards, but now that you have direct evidence I will pull the module and try it. I fixed my XK8 module a few months ago and this is no different. I checked the records and found that the module was replaced in '05. It's hard to believe they didn't have the problem resolved by then, but the part may have been sitting on the shelf for years.
I have an Ultagauge in the car to monitor the engine temp. and that will detect and clear engine codes. If I really need to get on the WDS I can contact sparkenzap who is in my area and has helped before.

 

Can you elaborate on the location and procedure for removing the module? I was just about to dive into tearing it apart but now you have me a little scared that it might take some time (and an actual garage)....both of which are missing from my life at the moment.

 

It's located at the right rear of the engine compartment (LHD). I haven't done this yet, and probably won't until the weekend, but it looks fairly easy. Disconnect the battery, then the hydraulic lines and the big connector with the 10 mm hex bolt. Back off the nuts securing it to the frame you can bend the hydraulic lines out of the way and remove the unit. I'm not sure how the plastic module is secured to the hydraulic unit, or if it needs to be separated, but that should be obvious.
Then cut the case open, solder the posts and glue it back together. Go to post #5 and click on X300 ABS C1095 DTC fault and you will see a picture provided by motorcarman.
If you want to wait until I have done mine I will provide more info.

 

One thing that has not been mentioned is cleaning the crud out of the reluctor rings themselves.

Also with colder weather showing an effect, it may be that the insulation gets stiffer and pulls at a not very good connection.

 

It's actually a bit simpler than RJ described, even. I think it's 3, but maybe only 2 iso-mounts holding the pump/valve/module on. Loosen those, then roll the whole asy up, forward and toward the center of the engine bay - yes you will be bending a bunch of brake lines as you do this...just keep an eye out that you aren't "kinking" any, just widening out their radii a bit. When you reach a certain point, you will have tool access to the lone fastener on the bottom that fixes the module to the valve-body. (Disconnect the electrical connector at the beginning of this process) I'm sorry I don't recall if it is an allen, torx, phillips or hex....I'll try to research my pics later this evening and see if I can come up with it.

Bottom line, I dreaded doing it needlessly - It was really one of the easiest fixes I've ever actioned on this car. I just wasn't too keen on bending that neat mess of spaghetti-like brake lines....but once you do it, you see it is FAR preferrable to disconnecting them all and having to bleed the system!

Edit:
Oops! Two fasteners! not one. The three bell-shaped jobs are the isomounts you need to loosen to get the whole asy freed-up:



They fit over the little brass hexes, 2 in front and one on the back:

 

now that it's cooled down here, mine is doing the exact opposite -0 the ABS/TRAC light is out, and now the driver's seat is moving when I insert the key.

Once I get the car in the garage for the winter, I might have toe look into the ABS unit since I had the random light this summer, and I can't drive with the traction control turned on, or the accelerator pedal bumps around on its own. I tried to remove the rear ABS sensors to clean them, but wasn't able after attempting three nights in a row.