I used SEM trim black. It's a professional body shop product. Great quality- it lays down extremely nice. Looks exactly like satin black Powdercoat.

 

I've been working on my XJS, trying to get both windows to open. I can live without a/c , for awhile. Can't drive in this heat we're having without open windows! So my trusty X300 went in the sideyard for awhile. Went to start it up after more than two weeks, and it was almost completely dead. Looked at the battery and the clamp was a beautiful teal color, looked like a blue green flower! Cleaned off the clamp but since it had previously been cracked it decided to fall apart. I looked in that plastic connector box and I just need to replace the terminal end. I think any battery cable will work. We will see. Charging it up tonight, held clamp on tight with a vice grip. It was a happier car when I drove it every day. Maybe I have too many Jags?

 

Don't be afraid to do your own A/C filter replacement. It's the long canister shaped object on top of the condensor/radiator. Remove both front grilles and it's a 20 minute job. Takes a 19mm flare wrench and a T25 torx head and that's it. Jaguar recommends replacement every two years. Don't forget to replace both o-rings at the same time. My filter appeared to be the original one from the factory and thus 20 years old.

 

What I found on my X300 was one of the wires on the driver side master control unit had pushed backed out of the connector causing intermittent connection and operation . Reseated and locked back in place . Works fine now . Suggest a tug on all the individual wires in the 2 connectors for this possibility . Lockbar holds them in place . May be the other door units for they talk with the driver side unit .

 

polished the headlamps with
Cerium Oxide Glass Polishing Compound,and 4000 grit foam backed pad,then i used 3 inch felt pad to finish,it helped remove some of the 20 year pitting

 

Spent time reading and learning more about my car. (1997 XJ6L) and uploaded a few photos of the relay and fuse areas to help in finding the NO START issue that just started.
I intend on changing the fuel pump, now that I can see the tank. Hope that solves the issue BUT, I'd first like to check fuses and relays when I know which ones are which.
I also downloaded the owners manual from this Forum, since I know so little about this vehicle.
Later, I intend to do some minor cleaning, since it will be off the road for at least one week.

 

panhead64flh ,

Some more material :

 

So far today, I siphoned all the fuel out of my tank in preperation of replacing the fuel pump. 1997 XJ6L.
I have a question, I disconnected the fuel and vent line at the top of the tank. I see other members telling me I should disconnect lines at bottom of tank before I slide it out from under the rear deck. What are these lines? Do I disconnect them from under the vehicle? I'm a little confused. I also disconnected a couple of elect. harness plugs and the two wires at the float. I do not want to cause any damage while doing this project, therefore, I can use all the advice I can get. Thanks.

 

I myself have not removed tank but this may help . See page 60 0f 360

Did you watch the above videos ?

Almost bought a 924 with 60K miles . 2000 US dollars


http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Trai...20-%202000.pdf

 

Jim,
There are two lines underneath; Fuel Feed and Return. You've thus far only mucked about with the evaporative vent lines. You cannot move the tank without disconnecting them, lest you damage them and by all reports they are as good as irreplaceable.

That link I posted in your boot-hinge thread should make it all clear to you. You will need the special fuel/a-c line tool, and likely a little length of cheater-pipe as pictured in said-thread. You will have to elevate the rear of the car - ramps or jackstands (or both, for redundant, fail-safe) to gain access.

 

This is all great advice, long story short. My X300 wouldn't start after sitting for just over a week, Replaced cam sensor with a second hand one with no change, (have ordered a new one to be sure).
Had it towed to Jag specialist who supposedly gave it a Comp test before getting it going and reported that they added some oil to the cylinders to do this as it had very poor compression, causing it not to fire. (didn't give me any figures or cylinder numbers for the compression test.
As it was now running (very rough) and missing I took it to a local garage for another compression test to verify the diagnosis. The local garage reported 150 pressure across all cylinders, they also had my injectors reconditioned i.e cleaned and replaced a coil they considered faulty, also claiming that they felt the other 5 would do with replacing.

I have ordered another 5 coil packs from SNG Barratt and am still waiting for arrival.
The car is now happy to fire again but is very rough at idle and missing. I'm hoping when I replace the coil packs and cam sensor with NEW I will solve my problem. Failing all that Im dreading the idea of looking at the fuel pump as next possible culprit.

Up until this epic drama, she had never missed a beat and was running fine. Had never had an issue sitting for a few weeks before firing straight up.

 

Thanks for the video's, I learned alot.
I cannot find page 60 of 360 in the pdf file you attached. The 4.0 section only goes to page 56.
I do want to learn as much as I can abouy this car and I am willing. I know it don't happen overnight. I think my sensors (related to staring and engine are working but I'd like to know how to find them under the hood. I changed two out on the 924S as well as a new front steering and suspension. I'm confident I know that vehicle fairly well and would like to feel the same about this Jaguar. The work ahead is not as much as it could be. My aim is to do it correctly and with as little cost as possible. Time and paitients I have!
Not sure how to drain and plush the power steering but suspect that is where I should start with respect to repairing it's function. BUT, first I must get the car running and moving again. First things first. Thanks again for you input.
Jim

 

Aholbro1, I intend to jack the rear of the car up today and put it on jack stands. Thanks for the info. I really do not want to damage anything. I also always use wheel chocks. Safety first! It's me under there!

 

Good luck with it, Jim. You'll find the pipes connect to the tank just above the differential pumpkin.....in fact, you'll probably wish the pumpkin was somewhere else as you try to gain access around and above it.

Now would be a good time to renew your fuel-filter if you haven't thought of it, already. If you trace the fuel lines from tank to left-side frame-rail, you'll find it nestled up there forward of the left rear wheel arch.

Mikey, Stranger things have happened, but I wouldn't hold my breath while hoping a new cam-sensor will resolve your misfires. AFAIK, the ECU uses cam-sensor output to determine TDC for a quicker light-off on start. Disconnected, or faulty, and peeps have reported about a 30-sec crank-time before it lights off, because the ECU decides what it is trying isn't working and tries 180 degrees different. Now the crankshaft position sensor....that one MAY be causing misfires - it has been tagged as responsible for much mischief - but "normally" it just fails resulting in no-start/no-run.

If you haven't already, try removing your coil cover and running the car in the dark-of-night while you stand outside looking at the coils; See if they put on a lightning show for you. If so, you'll know one or more are bad. If not...doesn't guarantee that they're good, but that is a fairly common failure mode.

 

Aholbri1, I see the area you are talking about, I think I only see one black union but I'm sure the second line has one also. It's a tight working space. Won't be easy putting back together, I bet. I also see and plan on replacing the fuel filter while I am working under there.
The cpvc split pipe tool, I guess is meant to go around the break line and push it against the connection. Does it release easily or does it need to be hit with a mallet? I am just about at that point now but prefer to proceed with confidence that I know what I am doing. It might be foolish to ask but I guess neither of these lines detach at the tank? Not that I can see that area from under there. A few more looks and I should be ready to atempt the disconnect. Thanks again.
Am I wrong in thinking all this needs to be done with one hand, cannot seem to get two hands up there?

 

Heheh....Jim, helping you get this tank out is a bit like playing "whack-a-mole!" First your boot hinge thread, then here, then your "97 XJ6L" thread, then back here...by now hopefully you've found the answers to the above questions in the 97 XJ6L thread. Between Brendan's picture of the lines connected to the tank shot from underneath with Diff removed, and my pic of the tank ports at the bottom of post #9 of the fuel-pump renewal thread I linked earlier, you should be able to gain a good understanding of what you are facing. Yes, I did it one-handed and tried to describe it in one of your other threads. Brendan has described a way to bring two hands to bear, on it. Doubt you could ever get a mallet-stroke on it, but it wouldn't help anyway. Look at the fingers inside the tank port in my post#9 pic. The special disconnect tool needs to be applying steady pressure to hold those back against the inner port wall, allowing the o-ring bead on the tube to slide outward. Place the disconnect tool around the line and into the port, small end first...the flange on the disconnect tool should be toward you.

 

May be your server throttling you back as you veiw it online , might try downloading it as a file ( arrow with a line under it in the upper right corner ) during non peak hours .

 

Hey there!
i just replace exhaust from converter to the rear end but i now smell gas and having poor consumption (more than 20 l/100km)
.
Sobi decide to replace a coil (i have some from ebay-lucas made in france)

after replacing the #4 coil ( it was replacedby my workshop 3 months ago) the engine fires immediatly instead of 1 sec delay before i fit the new coil.
byt the thing i noticed is if i remove any of the other 5 coils the engine just go hard when i remove the new engine shut down immediatly. Should i go for every coil to put a new? Maybe spark plugs?
I also had the lights on the dash blinking after the car was getting warm, i will try later today a ride to check consumtion and the dash lights.
i also replaced a month ago the man filter with kn but ivput aback the man today cause i am afraid of maf...
any ideas or help?
the coils i received from ebay look a vit different than the old made in japan coils.
model xj6 3,2 with 260.000 km 1995 model

 

Please consider cleaning idle air control valve, maf sensor and egr valve, just to eliminate dirty units. A new fuel filter. It helped my jag idle smooth. Just my two cents. Good luck.

 

With only two weeks in the stable Tatania, my 96' VDP has demanded much of my available attention with some settling in issues. Her prior squire had to part with her as he was unable to attend to her needs in the fashion which she is accustomed to. Purchased by my pal in Feb. at my instigation, he plied her with new boots, fresh coils and fluids all round as well as grease & bearings to sooth her grinding complaints. Although purchased at half of market value and having applied near twice that amount in service/parts/attention Tatania fell into disfavor and my chum sought to shift his allegiance to an Italian lass from Toluca Mexico. Describing Tatania as "Too much Car" for he being of a diminutive 5'5" in height such that parallel parking and backing up were maneuvers too perilous to entertain. Unable to adjust the seat and steering wheel to an appropriate level while reaching for petrol pedal and binder minder. Didn't have the heart to inform him that HRH QEII had found the Daimler X300 model such a joy to drive that her Majesty ordered same again please.
All in Tatania came home with me for the half of Market, original purchase price wearing all her new baubles. First item mended was the Check engine lite illuminated. Acquired a Bluetooth OBDII reader and sussed the situation down to a misfire on #4. Switched out the coil, wiped out the plug well and Bob's yer uncle! Quick recharge of the AC system and we're back to cool running's. Spritz the rails with Silicone lube and Voila! Sunroof retracts with ease and no hesitation. A weak door handle actuator failed when the Bowden cable separated from the pin. $250 replacement cable being two weeks away necessitated the repair of said cable by reattaching the pin with a bronze brazing rod. Door opens like a dream! Refitted loosened drivers door panel fitments and sagging decrepitude is restored to former grandeur! Something about being a Jaguar owner makes one want to wax eloquent! Well enough said for one night. Next installment Chrome exhaust tip polish application.