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new plugs, new coils, new paper gaskets for the coils... seems to run more smoothly and a bit peppier, but an hour or so on some twisty roads with a Miles Davis narration will be the true test. Nice OEM coils from Jagbits for $100 each - thanks Jagbits!
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...c5fe225a9.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...3da7093af.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...9dd2aad66.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...bbded3fcc.jpeg |
Originally Posted by cafe flyer
(Post 2364004)
new plugs, new coils, new paper gaskets for the coils... Nice OEM coils from Jagbits for $100 each - thanks Jagbits!
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...9dd2aad66.jpeg |
"Made in G.B." ah well... must go find my warm beer now (thanks for the heads up, though; hard for a newbie to make intelligent decisions on cost vs longevity vs functionality vs authenticity)
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Also, the washer on the oil pan plug was not the right one; it was full metal and smaller than the spec one. Hard to get off, but happy to get the right metal+rubber one on there To all of the folks who post here, I cannot thank you enough! I will make a nice donation to jaguarforums in celebration of finishing some major new-car work, with this forum's collective wisdom as excellent guidance. The car is running much more smoothly (plugs and coils?) and quieter (new, probably heavier W oil since it was in Las Vegas NV before). Very happy. Next work will be taking a look at vent on rear diff, inspecting suspension grommets, and replacing the front and rear shocks with Bilstein B6's (thank you Shock Warehouse). All this after I recover from feeling old while laying on the cold ground wrenching at weird angles. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...718a9226b.jpeg ahh ramps... just enough room to work AND feel claustrophic. better than jacks though https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...e4be38490.jpeg front side of idler pulley https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...81c51fade.jpeg back side... at some point, the rod will have to be replaced as the threads get a bit sketchy here and there, making for hard adjustments when its on the car https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...d6f377bf7.jpeg just nice to clean this up, inside and out. pleases my OCD soul. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...0e7fec741.jpeg two of these grommets are not like they should be... they came off in chunks and had the consistency of two-year-old fruitcake left outside. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...c97b9aad7.jpeg ahhh... now they all match https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...5d9eac7f8.jpeg cleaned, lubed w new oil, and new grommets in place. yay! https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...e2d86a1f7.jpeg cleaned out the receiving bits prior to re-install https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...65e9c3dbd.jpeg just about all buttoned up and ready for cruise into town! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...2fa2276fb.jpeg just satisfying to see the proper washer on the plug :) thank you again jagbits! 8 litres of oil (not quarts!) and the cruise into town was a quiet lovely success. Belts within tension parameters, oil volume at just below max, and happy ears. |
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...01d5876268.gif
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...c36c543c89.jpg Time for some restoration... All new parts from new engine mounts and shock absorbers, to all new bolts and silentblocks. Will keep old springs for now because they look even, but I will repaint them. Removing all paint, treating any rust that I can find on all parts. Also restoring brake calipers, cleaning up wheel arches, painting them and coating with antigravel I had registered to this forum long time ago, but only to read some threads. This is my first post, so I want to ask, if I have some problems, should I create new thread or bring back old threads, from years ago, and continue conversation there? |
Glad you have engaged! As to threads, I think it is your choice. A couple of thoughts from a somewhat frequent poster: It is easier to find a thread you initiated 3 or 4 years down the road when someone posts a question you've already solved, by using advanced search for threads you initiated with a keyword you'll be more likely to remember, vs. the same search for posts you've made to all threads using the same keywords. So there's +1 for starting a new thread.
On the other hand, the forum itself is more useful and efficient if you search the entire forum for an issue you are having, let's say "Starting problems" and only 1 hit comes up and it has the answer you need in the first post! Naturally, this never happens. One helpful thing I try to do when starting my own how-to thread, is try to link as many threads as make sense that I found when I first started searching for the answer to the problem that I solved and have started to post about. This may be a collection of 14 threads asking the same question that I'm answering - even if some are 14 yrs old, and/or it may contain links to 6 or 7 alternative solutions that are how someone else solved it, perhaps differently than did I. So dealer's choice, but just think about your purpose in posting and whom you envision as your audience and your direction will come into sharper focus. Whatever you decide, pics are always great! |
First posting in a while. I replace a bad fan in Ruby with a fan from an X308. I did a full write-up if anyone needs it.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...a43db216a9.jpg |
Me again...
Today I finished restoring front brake calipers. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...0e191a8d93.jpg |
Over the past week:
(1) Replaced radiator top and bottom grommets, condenser too... radiator grommets were basically an aluminum washer; all the rubber had dissipated with traffic (thank you to the forum folks for recommending condenser grommets at same time) Preview attachment image24.png https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=...0-h120-df-p-nu (2) On thursday night, since the grill was off to replace the grommets, I took it inside and carefully cleaned and polished it... one day I might swap the Vanden Plas scallop for the smooth one Preview attachment image23.jpeg https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=...0-h120-df-p-nu (3) Converted the cigarette lighters to twin USB QC3.0 chargers, permanently... seems that the lighters are on a 20amp circuit, so max 10am USB chargers should be fine, even if both are in use at the same time. Took some careful dremel action to widen the holes in the ABS by a mm or two; was fun to do that to the wood veneer too and smell actual wood instead of plastic. Decommissioned the bulbs that lit the green clear plastic surround, and the +/- leads plugged directly into the USB back end. Now I have a numerical voltage reading if I want one. If anyone wants the actual lighter coil insert, let me know. I saved the bulbs and mounts and the one coil. Oh, had to make new foam for the interface between the vents and the air ducts in the center console... the old foam took one look at my face and fell into five pieces, then dust. Preview attachment image22.jpeg https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=...0-h120-df-p-nuPreview attachment image17.jpeg https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=...0-h120-df-p-nuPreview attachment image19.jpeg https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=...0-h120-df-p-nu https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=...0-h120-df-p-nuPreview attachment image12.jpeg https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=...0-h120-df-p-nuPreview attachment image10.jpeg https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=...0-h120-df-p-nu (4) Replaced the J-gate bulb with a green LED, replaced S/N switch bulb with blue LED (thanks Oubadah for the guidance that has not aged with the years!) I have gotten good at taking the LED lights apart and re-winding the wires around the existing bases.. resistor is on the positive lead, diode on the negative :) Preview attachment image0.jpeg https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=...0-h120-df-p-nuPreview attachment image1.jpeg https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=...0-h120-df-p-nu (5) Reinforced the radio/ac/clock bracket with JB Weld and metal... the posts that held the screws for the LCD unit were almost all in pieces, one screw bracket was gone, and two were missing pieces. Also, the thin plastic ramp between the Clock and AC unit was kinda trashed, so I lined that on the back side with JB Weld and thin gauge metal. Preview attachment image3.jpeg https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=...0-h120-df-p-nu (6) Sent the LCD clock for ribbon and light replacement to ModuleMaster ($99 on ebay)... thought about doing the ribbon replacement myself, but erred on the side of paying a professional to do it properly [didn't feel like finding/buying the t-shaped tool for the business end of the soldering iron, etc etc). Next week, maybe: Front shock dampers (bilstein b6) just arrived from ShockWorld, and I have some power steering fluid to replenish... looking forward to a stiffer ride without the occasional clunk from the missing drivers side damper grommets. Oh yeah, and waiting in line to see if the DMV Gods will grant me a license plate from NM. |
After all of the work I have done over the last month on the 1996 VDP, I decided that a trip to Texas for a COVID vaccine was a good idea. Left early in the morning, got stuck on Interstate 40 in snowy slush surrounded by parked semi-trailer trucks for three hours, complete stoppage. Missed my appointment, cringed at every little rock or piece of road ice that came my way, drove home, skulked around for a while, then washed the car in temperatures not too far above freezing as a corrective emotional experience. Car did great, everything else was not so great :)
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...5b804e6d26.jpg note the angry spring clouds in the backround |
Sounds like a terrible journey, nice colour car, good job washing that!
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Cigarette lighter to USB conversion, more details
For NerijusHawk, a little more detail on the Cigarette Lighter to USB conversion; see this video if you want a walk-through of where my cigarette lighters are
(1) USB units from Amazon: "Quick Charge 3.0 Dual 12V USB Car Charger, Aluminum Socket with Red Digital Voltmeter, Waterproof Car Outlet with Power Switch Button" They come with n-line 10amp fuses, so even with quick charge these are a smaller current draw than the lighters they replace. (2) The factory jaguar lighter openings are 1 to 2mm smaller in diameter than what you now find online, so prepare the Dremel with small or large sanding barrels so that you can carefully increase the diameter and keep the opening round. Note also that there will likely be interference on the hidden/back side of the opening, and you will have to cut away (carefully!) some ABS structure to get the back side locking ring working effectively. For the front ashtray I cut away structure and used the lock ring as it was; for the back lighter opening, I had to cut away a flat spot on the lock ring and then turn the USB unit until things were tight... thankfully "tight enough" and USB being oriented properly were one and the same :) (3) To get the rear USB charger flush and looking nice, I also had to CAREFULLY dremel-sand away some of the wood grain veneer, but I think the final result was worth it. (4) I carefully removed the factory plugs from the plastic fitting that kept them together, and once the +/- leads were free, I could plug them right into the back of the USB units. The lightbulb that lit up the green lighter perimeter was removed, and I just wrapped the bulb lead to the +/- leads with electrical tape. (5) Finally, I kept the rubber caps that came with the USB units but freed them from the rubber washer they were connected to... much cleaner to fit the unit into the opening that way. I might lose the caps at some point, but at least everything fits. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...e88ec51b2.jpeg USB charger installed in front ash tray, rubber cap off https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...afb539fa3.jpeg Flush-mounted USB charger in rear-facing cigarette lighter, rubber cap on |
That's the prettiest Jaguar on the whole block
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...5b804e6d26.jpg |
Pulled the ‘96 VDP out of mothballs. It’s been in storage for 2.5yrs but driven around every 3-4 weeks.
Drain/filled coolant, quick oil charge even tho it only had 300 miles on the oil. Detailed outside and in. Cleaned and Treated the leather, shampooed the carpet. Replaced the 2 PS hoses from the PS reservoir. Long day.... also, Found the right rear power door lock not operating. |
got lost in the arcana of coolants!
I have spent the odd hour(s) here and there over the last three days reading about coolant usage on Jag forums. What an incredibly complex topic for something so... common.
Observations (1) IAT + OAT = oatmeal in your coolant loop. Green and orange mixed is bad. (2) OEM spec green coolant for X300s D945? isn't manufactured anymore, and was replaced with something like D542 which is yellow. Don't mix those either. (3) Check what is actually in your car, out of the reservoir in the sunlight, before doing anything. Very important to extract and view! If it is green in the sunlight and your car was born before 1998, you can stick with green (but check carefully for additives in the new stuff you might add to make sure you have just IAT and not some additive-addle green goo sold for more money) (4) You can switch from IAT to OAT or IAT to HOAT or xx to yy as long as you fluuuuuusshhhh your system thoroughly. Yeah no I don't trust myself to be that thorough. Not yet anyway. (5) Carrying three gallon containers of distilled water in each hand for 150 yards across a Smiths parking lot in the northern new mexico air makes my arms hurt and me breathe heavily. My conclusion For my 1995 XJ6 and 1996 Vanden Plas, both of which appear to have green stuff sitting in the reservoir (confirmed by extracting an oz or so and viewing in a clear glass in the sunlight), I will continue to buy the green stuff and flush as per forum recommendation. For the record, I settled on two options for my upcoming coolant flush: Prestone Original Prime Antifreeze Coolant or Zerex Original Green Antifreeze/Coolant I will flip a coin to decide which to use first when I have both of them here at the house and can read the labels more carefully than on the interwebs. Unless some long-timer here has a strong opinion on which is better, or that I just wasted my money and should use green kool-aid. And if they are both equally suitable, then I have that other car to flush too (I think the red one goes first). And maybe this weekend I will contemplate the complexity of a rear shock damper change, then just go on a bike ride instead of wrestling with spring compressors. |
Autozone has 2 types of spring compressors to borrow from their tool loan program
https://www.autozone.com/tools-and-e...LAT-Suspension :icon_dance-disco: |
Originally Posted by cafe flyer
(Post 2372209)
I
I will flip a coin to decide which to use first when I have both of them here at the house and can read the labels more carefully than on the interwebs. Unless some long-timer here has a strong opinion on which is better, or that I just wasted my money and should use green kool-aid. And if they are both equally suitable, then I have that other car to flush too (I think the red one goes first). And maybe this weekend I will contemplate the complexity of a rear shock damper change, then just go on a bike ride instead of wrestling with spring compressors. rear shocks is a super easy job, no compressor needed. won't take more than 30 minutes a side. |
Hey Cafe Flyer,
Would you mind reposting that coolant info, and any followups, in a new thread? I was baffled by the coolant situation after reading through old discussions, and it would be nice to have your summary in an easy-to-find place. Meanwhile, here's what I have been up to of late. Cleaning up after POMIL (Previous owner, my late mother-in-law) and her 25 years of smoking continues; I'm putting in about an hour a day just scrubbing and vacuuming. I installed the replacement leaper that I had bought for her in 2013 (!); she was afraid it would get stolen like the first one so it has been resting in the glovebox ever since. The rear driver-side door latch mechanism is on my workbench, in the hopes I can fix the electric lock actuator rather than buy a whole new latch set. And finally I have started deupholstering the headliner and associated bits, including removing the fabric from the sun visors. -Thos/MA |
Originally Posted by ThosMa
(Post 2372337)
Hey Cafe Flyer,
Would you mind reposting that coolant info, and any followups, in a new thread? I was baffled by the coolant situation after reading through old discussions, and it would be nice to have your summary in an easy-to-find place. Meanwhile, here's what I have been up to of late. Cleaning up after POMIL (Previous owner, my late mother-in-law) and her 25 years of smoking continues; I'm putting in about an hour a day just scrubbing and vacuuming. I installed the replacement leaper that I had bought for her in 2013 (!); she was afraid it would get stolen like the first one so it has been resting in the glovebox ever since. The rear driver-side door latch mechanism is on my workbench, in the hopes I can fix the electric lock actuator rather than buy a whole new latch set. And finally I have started deupholstering the headliner and associated bits, including removing the fabric from the sun visors. -Thos/MA Good luck with the cleaning! My silver XJ is a POFIL, with a bent rear wishbone and salvage title both discovered after the fact... but a nonsmoker so that was a plus. |
1 Attachment(s)
The attached Coolant summary I recently completed may either assist or confuse you -
John Herbert (1996 XJR ) |
Originally Posted by cafe flyer
(Post 2372209)
And maybe this weekend I will contemplate the complexity of a rear shock damper change, then just go on a bike ride instead of wrestling with spring compressors. |
We did the rear damper change on the 1995 XJ6 about a month ago, and we definitely needed them - damper is inside the springs, and getting the spring/collar assembly on and off the car was not possible without it. The rear wishbone's arc of movement was limited by the triangular piece of metal that holds the rear suspension assembly together, and we did not want to remove that (being new to the whole process).
If the collective wisdom of the thread says "remove that triangular plate and let the spring push the rear wishbone until it is done", then I will happily try that! Spring compressors frighten me, just watching all that potential energy coiled up... (thanks!) |
Originally Posted by John Herbert
(Post 2372622)
The attached Coolant summary I recently completed may either assist or confuse you -
John Herbert (1996 XJR ) I did read through that PDF in my research - very helpful! My lingering question is, does using OAT or HOAT coolant (designed for more modern engines) degrade certain specific older parts at a much faster rate than the simple old green stuff? I seem to have read that on a few posts, and the general conclusion was "stick with the old stuff and just replace it more frequently" Cheers |
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https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...68c2cc1c97.png
rear damper change, service manual part 1 https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...05f4f6b955.png rear damper change, service manual part 2 |
Originally Posted by cafe flyer
(Post 2372905)
We did the rear damper change on the 1995 XJ6 about a month ago, and we definitely needed them - damper is inside the springs, and getting the spring/collar assembly on and off the car was not possible without it. The rear wishbone's arc of movement was limited by the triangular piece of metal that holds the rear suspension assembly together, and we did not want to remove that (being new to the whole process).
If the collective wisdom of the thread says "remove that triangular plate and let the spring push the rear wishbone until it is done", then I will happily try that! Spring compressors frighten me, just watching all that potential energy coiled up... (thanks!) |
Originally Posted by xalty
(Post 2372934)
you didn’t do it right then. pry the plate, force a block of wood in between it. unbolt the shock and spring mount and beat it with a hammer till it loosens. rotate the half shaft until you have max travel. if you still need more travel you can stand on the hub or use a scissor jack
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When I first test drove the 1996 VPD about six weeks ago, I noticed the throttle was a bit slow to respond. We looked under the hood and lo and behold the plastic barrel where the cable comes out of the traction control unit was broken, and it was kinda held in place with what looked like white medical tape.
When the car got home, we used JB Weld to fix the break right at the base and that seemed to work. Last week I finally got around to playing around with the limp-ish throttle and did the usual "read everything I could find" to get some idea of the proper way to tighten the cable without sending the car into the Idle Hands of the Devil. Horror stories of TPS replacements, mandatory dealer visits, errant vacuum hoses, etc etc held me at bay till I read this post, a more readable version of what a TSB tells you do do. Was kinda cool to see the potentiometer from the Traction Control Unit up close, just by removing two bolts with the car not up on a ramp. In the process of doing that, I realized that my JB weld was a bit wiggly where the cable comes out of the Traction Control Unit, so I set about thinking about ways to stop the wiggle. The pictures below show the amateur fabrication using metal from an old file drawer and some high temp paint. A bit of JB Weld keeps it tight against the flat side of the Traction Control Unit, and two zip ties on the output side and two on the input side reduce the wiggle to pretty much nothing. And you can still do the cable tightening service after the fact; the bracket does not get in the way of that. Anyway, was a nice project to wrap up in about two hours over the course of the day, and could be a useful idea for others with that inevitably glued, cracked, or about-to-break plastic guide for the second half of the throttle cable. Maybe someone can 3D print one.... in the meantime, pics below. {I'll have a helper this weekend to help me check that the kick-down switch engages at the right moment and that a full accelerator pedal compression does just what it needs to and no more} https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...28faa709c.jpeg Note the JB weld at the base of the plastic barrel; hitting the gas pedal would make it wiggle https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...3a11486f2.jpeg Figured a small metal bracket that had some depth and a bit of a flange (can't see the flange on the outside of the bracket, but its about 5mm deep) could eliminate the wiggle https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...c738f6d4f.jpeg Spray painted black, with zip ties on the outer ends, and also near the TCU (note holes drilled in metal for zip ties near the TCU) https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...77058f5ff.jpeg buttoned up and JB Welded against TCU (no glue on either barrel in case I need to rip this thing off, but the metal does a nice job of supporting each plastic barrel... the white barrel I noticed had been glued before!) https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...124958142.jpeg And from a distance the bracket blends in nicely :) |
What coolant should I use in my X300?
Originally Posted by ThosMa
(Post 2372337)
Hey Cafe Flyer,
Would you mind reposting that coolant info, and any followups, in a new thread? I was baffled by the coolant situation after reading through old discussions, and it would be nice to have your summary in an easy-to-find place. Meanwhile, here's what I have been up to of late. Cleaning up after POMIL (Previous owner, my late mother-in-law) and her 25 years of smoking continues; I'm putting in about an hour a day just scrubbing and vacuuming. I installed the replacement leaper that I had bought for her in 2013 (!); she was afraid it would get stolen like the first one so it has been resting in the glovebox ever since. The rear driver-side door latch mechanism is on my workbench, in the hopes I can fix the electric lock actuator rather than buy a whole new latch set. And finally I have started deupholstering the headliner and associated bits, including removing the fabric from the sun visors. -Thos/MA When your X300 was born, it was likely filled with a green coolant called Jaguar D985 (IAT). Sometime in 1997, VINs 803242 onward, a revised yellow coolant Jaguar D542 (HOAT) was used. A Jaguar technical service bulletin from August of 1997 stated that if VINs in the range 720001-803241 require repairs that involve a major loss of coolant, then you should drain the system and refill with D542, and put a label stating as such on the reservoir. So… what gives with the change, and where are we today? Read on... [Excerpt from [url=https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xj-xj8-xjr-x308-27/what-coolant-type-use-177031/]link from 2017, underlining and bold type done by me] IAT is the old green stuff, containing silicates which are the anti-oxidant compounds that keep your cooling system from rusting. Works great, no issues, but the silicates are depleted in about 2 years, possibly 3, so the recommendation is to change coolant every 2 years. [Another excerpt from a[url=https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xj-xj8-xjr-x308-27/what-coolant-type-use-177031/] different link from 2017, bold and underlining done by me]OAT uses organic acids to prolong the anti-oxidant ability of the coolant. These form a molecular layer on contacted metal which is how they inhibit corrosion, and it takes about 5000 miles for this reaction to fully occur. Silicates in IAT coolant react immediately but are rapidly consumed (a buffered pH solution, back to high school chemistry). OAT coolants are supposed to last 5 years. The major neg of this is one of the chemicals, 2-EHA that acts as a plasticizer and weakens certain plastic cooling system components. It also is prone to rust in certain engines that don't have the coolant changed often enough, mostly iron blocks and ones that expose coolant to air more than most. HOAT coolant is a hybrid of both. Mercedes and Chrysler are the main users of this. IMO HOAT is the best of both worlds. But, it seems most vehicle manufacturers are moving to slightly different versions of OAT coolants for long life/less maintenance/make the the customer happy reasons, plus making environmentalists happier by less ethylene glycol being used/dumped/needing to be recycled. Another issue is that OAT and HOAT coolants do not control electrolysis in cooling systems made of more than one metal (especially when one of them is brass), and they do not protect steel water pump impellers from electrolysis or cavitation erosion (which is why plastic impellers were introduced with OAT coolants in the S-Types and X350s). At this point, after reading the above information and the caveats for switching from IAT to OAT or HOAT, I decided to go with something that is as close to what they put in the car at the factory as possible. I am my own mechanic, so doing a coolant flush every two years vs five years was not a big deal.New formulations of OAT and HOAT coolants continue to be developed, and some "universal" formulations are claimed to be compatible with other coolants. But since many automakers state in their technical literature that IAT should not be mixed with OAT or HOAT, and OAT and HOAT should not be mixed together, the safest route is to use the coolant specified by Jaguar for your model and VIN. Now the task was decoding the marketing language around IAT, OAT, HOAT, and “universal” coolants, and translating that into a specific brand or product I could buy with confidence. How to find the good old green stuff, and avoid the other stuff, if that was my choice? This link from Valvoline, copyrighted 2021, was really helpful to me in decoding content vs brand names Maybe one day I will switch to HOAT, but this being my first radiator flush ever on my first Jag ever, I thought sticking with Zerex Original or Prestone Prime Conventional Green was a safe bet. And in two years, maybe I’ll do HOAT… [or maybe by then they will throw every additive into a coolant that is all colors of the rainbow compatible in all cars with no flushing and we will know world peace] And a final shout-out to John Herbert and his “jaguar coolants.pdf” which helps decode some global coolant brands and chemical composition vs D985 and D542 jaguar-branded coolants. Just about every thread has this statement: trust the chemical composition, not the color! |
Sanding and Polishing
For a couple of years now I've had some contamination on the paintwork on the horizontal surfaces (Water Spots? Tree Sap?). Well Mostly the bonnet actually. I've machine polished it a couple of times previously but it only improved very slightly.
This year I decided I was going for it. So I wet sanded the whole bonnet. I used 2000 paper, followed by 3000 paper then machined polished with 3M Perfect It. (Green, then Yellow, then Blue). I'm pleased with the results. The marks are gone and the paintwork looks good. It took 3 polishes with the 3M Green (Cutting) before the scratches left by the 3000 paper were gone. I think I should probably have gone to a 5000 paper before machine polish. But I got there. In the first picture you can see in top left around the light reflection the stubborn contamination marks on the paint that I had, with the right side of the bonnet sanded. 2nd picture is the finished bonnet. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...375d874789.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...16f3f0a110.jpg |
Nice finish on the Daimler there Brendan.
Today I replaced the Alternator and AC with Contitech belts along and a Dayco Idler pulley, There was a lot of dirt and oil residue in there so I degreased the pulley mount and adjuster before reinstalling. It's surprising how much noise old belts and pulleys make when idling. It's almost silent now. |
Gotta love the Nautilus paint color like M' Lady P
Right behind you on the clearcoat repair Good to see the original undercoat can be worked with without replacing |
CRacked front exhaust manifold removes,only three hours and swearing and blood loss but I got there 😡
Also so deleted the secondary air injection system whilst I was at it 👌 ive had an annoying wobbly idle the last year or so and found the crack whilst investigating this,I also found one of the front manifold to down pipe bolts wasn’t even snuggled up properly ,this has been letting unmetered air into the exhaust before the o2 sensor as well as the cracked manifold,I suspect this caused my emissions problems at mot and ruined that o2 sensor 🤔 anyway,manifold and gasket still on the way so it will sit there all week now under it’s cover as punishment for biting me 🤣 https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...8dcb81636.jpeg |
Restoration update...!!! Today I played with my hydraulic press. Pushed in all the silentblocks, that I have at the moment. Also stub axles. Pressed out bolts from hubs, before wirebrushing, and then pressed everything back again...
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...91fa33eafb.jpg Anyone have any idea how to preserve hubs to keep them shiny? https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...a491b464f7.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...73049c8f50.jpg |
Changed the Fuel Filter and noticed my EVAP test suddenly passed. It hadn't for a few months, so that was nice.
Looked at changing the rear exhaust rubber mounts above the rear axles, but realized it was too much of a pain to get to, so will wait until I have time. The old ones are getting squeaky |
beautiful work... keeping your car behind glass is one way to keep the hubs shiny
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Two quick questions, after 90+ minutes of forum/googling last night:
(1) For my 1995 XJ, anyone know what this hose/vacuum line's function is? see pic below: https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...9c277af3d2.png black and white hose coming out of aft end of intake mfld I know where it connects to after checking on the red car, but no idea what it does (2) Are there any good ODB1 testers out there I can use with the 1995 XJ (silver car) and 1996 VDP (red car)? Nothing online gave me confidence... And in other news...Fun failures over the last week that make me question my parenting, financial sense, and mechanical know-how:
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I know where it connects to after checking on the red car, but no idea what it does Are there any good ODB1 testers out there I can use with the 1995 XJ (silver car) and 1996 VDP (red car)? |
Originally Posted by b1mcp
(Post 2375853)
I think that is the hose that connects to a steel pipe on the inner wing. It goes from there to the Charcoal cannister for the EVAP system. Presumably to suck out vapour and feed into the manifold - but that's my guess. The EVAP system is a bit of a black art to me.
I've connected my 1995MY car to many different OBD readers over the years - from cheapo stuff from ebay to more expensive ELM327s to high end systems. I've never had a problem connecting with any of them. I currently have a reader that cost 6 GBP that I keep in the car for emergency use. It works fine with Torque Pro on my Android phone. |
Ok - Now knowing that the errant vacuum hose was fuel-related helped me RTFM and put the pieces together with the diagram below... the hose to the intake manifold is shown as the forward-most in the diagram, but its the rear-most on the car and should go to the Rochester valve. I'll take the rear wheel off again and check its routing. Nice to have a better idea of what those four lines do... and know that on the car there is a fifth line (brake line) that comes after the first three fuel lines and then that line to the Rochester valve. And I got a visual on the charcoal canister, which is helpful. Also turns out that the red car is OBD2 (1996 VDP) and the silver car is OBD1 (1995 XJ). No codes on the red car, yay!
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...37693b4abc.png |
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