See page 60 and pic on page 66 of the Jaguar Engine Management Systems # S801 pdf link
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Trai...20-%202000.pdf :icon_dance-disco: There are 2 versions : one vapor canister just forward of the left rear wheel which involves a Rochester valve 2 vapor canister version with the second canister just fwd of the right rear wheel and does not have a Rochester valve but a electric controlled canister close valve You can check this without jacking the car |
Originally Posted by Parker 2
(Post 2375980)
See page 60 and pic on page 66 of the Jaguar Engine Management Systems # S801 pdf link
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Trai...20-%202000.pdf :icon_dance-disco: There are 2 versions : one vapor canister just forward of the left rear wheel which involves a Rochester valve 2 vapor canister version with the second canister just fwd of the right rear wheel and does not have a Rochester valve but a electric controlled canister close valve You can check this without jacking the car I think I may print this out for reading comprehension. Turns out my 1995 and 1996 are both single-canister after peering under them this morning with coffee cup in hand. Getting a systems overview is extraordinarily helpful for me, even just page 7 showing engine control inputs and outputs clarifies many things. Now I can tackle these types of issues with more confidence - this guide as a logical/cognitive baseline, with the wisdom of the forums layered on top. If you ever travel to the four corners region, would be happy to host up here in Santa Fe (he says, with sore arm from vaccination yesterday). Will now google Rochester Valve for grins. Cheers. |
There is a Delco equivalent on may laptop somewhere
There was hints of people installing the Rochester hoses incorrectly Your garage poster is on page 54 . The Office Max like print shops can make into a large laminated image that you can color in with windows art beforehand The EVAP Evaporative Valve up front under the air filter can be tested with a 9 volt battery for the valve clicking and free moving I use to drive through northern Texas toward Santa Fe but turning north on Hubway 518 to Taos to ski at my favorite , Telluride There are probably a lot of examples of the vapor canisters rusting and leaking but can be repaired with JB Weld |
1995 Silver XJ6 - fabricated new battery holding clip (old one was AWOL and moving battery kinda messed with my ground cable), coolant flush, thermostat replacement, renewed radiator and condenser grommets, learned about the white donut that can get stuck on the coolant level https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...esolved-92120/ LED lights for trunk and license plate
1996 Red Vanden Plas - put a green mini-wedge LED light in the bulb socket that comes with the cigarette lighter.. nice to have a little light in the ashtray when the headlights are on, just to see if I left my phone charging cable in there :) sometimes the little things keep you going https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...604b5a3455.jpg |
Did my first oil-change...
What sadistic piece of shit decided where to put the oil filter!!? i got a facefull of oil trying to wiggle the old one past the steering rack and intercooler bracing - next time i think i will pay someone to do it for me :icon_angel: |
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Originally Posted by bjarnetv
(Post 2380524)
Did my first oil-change...
What sadistic piece of shit decided where to put the oil filter!!? i got a facefull of oil trying to wiggle the old one past the steering rack and intercooler bracing - next time i think i will pay someone to do it for me :icon_angel: |
Originally Posted by MikeyB10
(Post 2380879)
oil filter? that's a breeze I usually remove my air inlet (MAS) for a clean and remove and refit the oil filter from under the bonnet. If you want to find the definition of sadistic engineering wait till you change the Fuel filter. Remembering this is supposed to be a serviceable item, you have to drop one of the exhaust pipes to get at it, get flat on your back and do a quick change over with fuel running down your arms and possibly in your face. Why did anyone think it was a good idea to put a serviceable item directly under the fuel tank where once disconnected you can't stop fuel from syphoning off. I've read descriptions of pulling the fuel pump fuse to run the fuel out of the line which sounds good in theory. However, I've tried it and as soon as you pull the fuse the fuel pressure drops and the engine stalls. This may take the pressure out of the line but doesn't stop you from getting a face full of petrol/gas once you unscrew the old one. (Happy to be corrected and will take any and all advice)
Fuel filter was a lot easier, though the bolt holding the bracket in place sure didn't want to go back in! In my experience, you only loose about 1dl of fuel when disconnecting the line, so just keep a container ready when loosening the line. |
Originally Posted by bjarnetv
(Post 2380524)
Did my first oil-change...
What sadistic piece of shit decided where to put the oil filter!!? i got a facefull of oil trying to wiggle the old one past the steering rack and intercooler bracing - next time i think i will pay someone to do it for me :icon_angel: and seems that dismantling the inlet tract from air filter box to inter cooler it might be possible to reach the oil filter from the top. At least it _seemed_ like that last summer when I was playing around with the TB return springs... I go pretty ok with removing the intake tract at that point :icon_angel: |
Originally Posted by AnttiM
(Post 2380894)
It might be easier to remove the lower end of the inter cooler brace, it is pretty flexible then.. When I got the car the brace was not connected at the bottom end.
and seems that dismantling the inlet tract from air filter box to inter cooler it might be possible to reach the oil filter from the top. At least it _seemed_ like that last summer when I was playing around with the TB return springs... I go pretty ok with removing the intake tract at that point :icon_angel: not much help removing the inlet elbow tract unfortunately... https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...2fd9c2b2b0.jpg |
While working on the 1995 Silver XJ, I spent a few hours trying to track down a turn signal issue on the right side. Turn signal flashing at double speed, indicating a fault, bulb works fine out of the socket. Spent some time laying on the ground looking at the wiring harness and the BR1 connector... I traced/identified all of the wires going in from the bumper (RH fog lamp, RH side marker light, RH turn signal light... and Ambient Temp Switch? have yet to set eyes on that) into the male side of the BR1 connector. Colors match the elect diagrams, yay.. 13 pin connector, only using pins 2-8, check.
Then I looked at the female side of the BR1, which I am supposing leads to the RH Front Lighting Control Module and RS13 + RS30 (note my surprise when I realize that my 1996 does NOT have one of these lighting control modules in the front... and thank goodness after an hour I realized I was looking at the 1996 elect guide... found the 1995 guide and regained my sanity for a minute or two). QUESTION: Should the pins and colors on the BR1 connector match up from the male (bumper) side to the female (back into engine bay) side of the harness? I laid on the ground in the dirt and the only colors that seemed to match up pin-to-pin were the ground wires. Of course it was getting late by this time and I might be hallucinating, but I thought maybe the connector on the female side was doing something behind the scenes. The silver car was in an accident in the distant past and the harness suffered some other trauma at the hands of my 18 year old, so I need to thoroughly trace and fix the mess... I hate running splices badly patched with electrical tape, but the non-matching colors and pins has me up late and distressed. Will post some pics tomorrow of either side of the BR1 connector... Cheers CF |
The flashing comes from a current sensor in the light control unit , a high resistance in the wiring mimic a burnt out bulb
The 13 pin connectors can corrode behind the pins and sockets not being able to be seen The bulbs if I recall have looping contact wires that don't make proper contact in the sockets , you can spring them back out There was a change in the exterior light wiring in 95 with production # X , you may have a mix of old version and new version wire harness as they mate Looking at your wire colors .........and snow On mine one of the 13 pin connectors was missing so they twisted the wires together with electrical tape . They even had a wire bundle with some engine regulation dragging on the tire exposing the copper wire https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...5eb4689be7.png https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...5d351fbb93.png https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...bcd719abc0.jpg |
Originally Posted by Parker 2
(Post 2381252)
The flashing comes from a current sensor in the light control unit , a high resistance in the wiring mimic a burnt out bulb
The 13 pin connectors can corrode behind the pins and sockets not being able to be seen The bulbs if I recall have looping contact wires that don't make proper contact in the sockets , you can spring them back out There was a change in the exterior light wiring in 95 with production # X , you may have a mix of old version and new version wire harness as they mate Looking at your wire colors .........and snow On mine one of the 13 pin connectors was missing so they twisted the wires together with electrical tape . They even had a wire bundle with some engine regulation dragging on the tire exposing the copper wire https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...5eb4689be7.png https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...5d351fbb93.png https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...bcd719abc0.jpg April is the cruelest month, breeding Ordered two AMP 13 pin connectors, wish me luck in matching colors across the BR1 connection when they arrive. Now I must go out and water my lilacs since the spring rain has yet to arrive here.Lilacs out of the dead land, mixing Memory and desire, stirring Dull roots with spring rain Back to the email salt mines. CF |
Thank you for this post about the rear shocks! I have to do this job in a few weeks! Greatly appreciated!
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BR1 was the connector missing on mine
Let me see if I have a pin /color map on a older computer Need some wire labels 1 - 10 ? The part # circled in the picture is not for the whole connector but just the face plate |
Originally Posted by Parker 2
(Post 2381473)
BR1 was the connector missing on mine
Let me see if I have a pin /color map on a older computer Need some wire labels 1 - 10 ? The part # circled in the picture is not for the whole connector but just the face plate I did track down the following for the 1995 XJ (all RH), which I think covers the BR1 pinout, and I hope this helps someone else :) BR1 - 2: Red/Orange, Fog Lamp BR1 - 3: Red/White, Side Marker Lamp BR1 - 4: Green/Purple (?), RH Direction Indicator BR1 - 5: Black (ground for Fog Lamp, Side Marker, Direction Indicator.. they are spliced together in the harness) BR1 - 6: Green/Yellow, RH Direction Indicator BR1 - 7: Black/White, Ambient Temp Switch (not the Sensor!) BR1 - 8: Orange/Yellow, Ambient Temp Switch So... tested all bulbs in the harness, multimeter to test all wires (all good), and made sure no copper was left exposed. Hooked it up to car, but fog light is still out and right hand signal is still double-time showing a fault. BUT eliminated everything after BR1, which is a big step. Final question: should the colors on the female side of BR1 (leading back into wheel well and car) match the colors above on the male side (harness that sits in bumper, and in picture below)? Maybe an easier answer is if Parker 2 was missing BR1 and soldered like color to like color, then I should make sure mine match. Hope that makes sense! Was actually really satisfying to pull the whole little front right bumper harness, fix it up, test all the bulbs, and re-wrap in heat-resistant tape... https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...d336488c51.png Harness forward of BR1, RH side, sad connector in my hand who wonders where the Ambient Temp Switch went... and if they were ever really that close https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...5c2130f3a6.png Back side of female BR1 connector After 20 minutes of taking pictures and notes, I have even less of an idea of what is going on... since the only pins that match color is the Black ground pin... argh:. Time to go make dinner (but I may quickly check to see if my RH turn signal lights up when I turn on the fog lights) https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...ca1b0a5c57.png Looks like I will have to trace the female leads back to the RH Lighting Control Module to see what is going on. |
Kidney Doctors appointment tomorrow so I won't be back til late tomorrow
Standard practice is to use the front side of the connector but I can still use your afts Ambient temp switch on the right side brake cooling duct is for the window washer fluid nozzle heaters ( yep ) this causes the alternator voltage regulator fuse to pop |
I'm puzzled by these comments about changing the oil filter on an XJR6. I've changed mine 3 times now and never had a problem with getting it out or with oil spillage. On my Race Ramps the low ride height makes getting under the car a bit of a squeeze but thats the only issue I have. I could see getting the fuel filter would be a problem as it didn't look like it had been changed for many years so I got my local Jag specialist to do this.
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Originally Posted by JudgeGeoff
(Post 2381770)
I'm puzzled by these comments about changing the oil filter on an XJR6. I've changed mine 3 times now and never had a problem with getting it out or with oil spillage. On my Race Ramps the low ride height makes getting under the car a bit of a squeeze but thats the only issue I have. I could see getting the fuel filter would be a problem as it didn't look like it had been changed for many years so I got my local Jag specialist to do this.
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Originally Posted by Parker 2
(Post 2381624)
Kidney Doctors appointment tomorrow so I won't be back til late tomorrow
Standard practice is to use the front side of the connector but I can still use your afts Ambient temp switch on the right side brake cooling duct is for the window washer fluid nozzle heaters ( yep ) this causes the alternator voltage regulator fuse to pop After a good nights sleep, I got everything sorted today in work breaks. Probably the most confusing thing was the fact that the existing male side of harness itself pinned out as per diagrams, but the female side was completely wrong except for ground... have no idea if it came from the factory that way or if it was just from incompetence in the past. Also figured out, in the process, how to get the female pins out of the AMP connector. First take off the yellow cover, then shine a flashlight into the top of the pin you want to remove, with connector body in a vise. Use a stiff small wire like a safety pin to depress the plastic tab that hangs down and retains the metal clip. Press hard on that tab, and pull the wire from the back. Works like a charm! After tracing and verifying wire colors and where they terminate on the RH Front Lamp Control Module, I was able to get the female pins into the proper matching spots for the male pins coming in from the rebuilt harness. If this is useful to anyone, happy to post pics. Everything cleaned up and connected, still got the double-time blinker... dammit. One last check? bulb was out; after testing it, I laughed. New bulb, and everything in working order. Shout out to all the forum folks for sharing small victories and frustrations - keeps me engaged and learning. Glad I don't have to change the oil on an XJR :) -CF |
If you would like less then a face full of oil in your face during the oil filter change try this, Put vehicle up on jacks or hoist, Allow to sit over night. Either change oil filter or engine oil first. Does not matter which one. For what ever reason, You will find the oil filter nearly bone dry. I don't know why.
Thank you. Larry Louton |
Today I found and repaired this rodent-damaged wiring. For those of you with your wiring diagrams handy, this is the outside half of bulkhead connector RS3. It's at the bottom of the right hand front fender.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...7484610a0.jpeg |
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I brought my 1997 X330 (XJ6L) home today. This is such a wonderful automobile! I wish that I had bought one of these years ago.
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Originally Posted by captainobvious1
(Post 2383310)
I brought my 1997 X330 (XJ6L) home today. This is such a wonderful automobile! I wish that I had bought one of these years ago.
Cheers DD |
The "old school cool" si something quite special. This was when men that desired a luxurious car with enough power to get out of its own way were popular. Today, it seems to be nothing but "techno-whiz" gadgets as well as "I can perform your parking for you" self-driving manipulation. I prefer to employ my own skills and use my brain as God intended. As was frequently repeated in the old pain reliever commercials, "I'd rather do it myself."
"I have the ability to engage in highly refined critical thinking, therefore I can drive." - Captain Obvious. It works for me! |
Silver 1995 XJ: finished rebuilding, installing, and testing the RH front harness. Plus fixing a broken connector inside the plug that powers the windshield washer motor, and re-soldering leads for washer fluid level sensor. Replaced all fluid lines with new tubing, soaked and cleaned the windshield spray heads, spray-painted the black plastic cover that holds the spray nozzles, de-commissioned the one-way valve in the fluid line which was pretty stingy (will retrofit w a cheap GM valve from Amazon and see how that works). In the meantime, all the lights work, and I have four quite vigorous streams aimed at the proper spots on the windshield for the first time ever. Only warning light left on Silver XJ is the SRS Airbag, will order some clips and resistors and take a weekend to work through that sometime in the next month. 40-minute shakedown cruise on the interstate yesterday, no warning lights or weird noises, 90mph was a smooth happy ride.
Red 1996 VPD: Installed low-profile cabinet door magnets for the armrest/cupholder assembly covering the center console... no more wrestling with the broken latch mechanism! Took a few hours of amateur fitting and fabrication, but its a much stronger close/hold system than before. Missed a key element of front shock damper install a few weeks ago, and a metallic clanking noise on high frequency bumps (washboard on gravel roads, common in northern new mexico) was diagnosed and fixed by my 18-year old son, laughing at me in a nice way the whole time - I forgot the metal washer that goes just above the boot on the upper part of the shock damper, so after a few weeks I had lost all high-frequency damping. Fixed both sides late last night, and we celebrated with a run to the local convenience store/gas station at 10pm... car glides over the washboard now; brilliant! Also took my 5 year old daughter to her violin lesson in the car on Saturday - nothing like a five year old saying "lets take the red jag!" and enjoying the pretentiousness of arriving on-site in the red car and unloading her and her violin. I felt much classier than my roots and upbringing normally allow. |
I had four LED cob "bulbs" installed in my headlamp reflectors today. These "light up the night" better than any Halogen bulb ever did! I avoided the "blue" (8000K) cob units, because the 6000K "white" light provides greater visibility and increases the road sign and obstacles better than ever before. LED cob units last ten times longer than Halogen lamps and also draw less current. (It is a win-win-win any way you slice it). These "bulbs" were engineered for the X300 models to not blind oncoming drivers. I would heartily recommend LED cob units for any modern vehicle.
Both personal and public safety is imperative, isn't it? |
Good day!
I am changing bearings and seals at the moment and cant remember which direction inner hub seal goes in...I think " A " is correct one...but I need to check... https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...6aa8f29e57.png P.S where I can find torque specifications for all suspension bolts? |
Originally Posted by NerijusHawk
(Post 2384125)
Good day!
I am changing bearings and seals at the moment and cant remember which direction inner hub seal goes in...I think " A " is correct one...but I need to check... https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...6aa8f29e57.png P.S where I can find torque specifications for all suspension bolts? https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...d7d1c00436.png |
Out of the mouths of babes...
Originally Posted by cafe flyer
(Post 2383772)
Silver 1995 XJ: finished rebuilding, installing, and testing the RH front harness. Plus fixing a broken connector inside the plug that powers the windshield washer motor, and re-soldering leads for washer fluid level sensor. Replaced all fluid lines with new tubing, soaked and cleaned the windshield spray heads, spray-painted the black plastic cover that holds the spray nozzles, de-commissioned the one-way valve in the fluid line which was pretty stingy (will retrofit w a cheap GM valve from Amazon and see how that works). In the meantime, all the lights work, and I have four quite vigorous streams aimed at the proper spots on the windshield for the first time ever. Only warning light left on Silver XJ is the SRS Airbag, will order some clips and resistors and take a weekend to work through that sometime in the next month. 40-minute shakedown cruise on the interstate yesterday, no warning lights or weird noises, 90mph was a smooth happy ride.
Red 1996 VPD: Installed low-profile cabinet door magnets for the armrest/cupholder assembly covering the center console... no more wrestling with the broken latch mechanism! Took a few hours of amateur fitting and fabrication, but its a much stronger close/hold system than before. Missed a key element of front shock damper install a few weeks ago, and a metallic clanking noise on high-frequency bumps (washboard on gravel roads, common in northern New Mexico) was diagnosed and fixed by my 18-year old son, laughing at me in a nice way the whole time - I forgot the metal washer that goes just above the boot on the upper part of the shock damper, so after a few weeks I had lost all high-frequency damping. Fixed both sides late last night, and we celebrated with a run to the local convenience store/gas station at 10 pm... car glides over the washboard now; brilliant! Also took my 5-year-old daughter to her violin lesson in the car on Saturday - nothing like a five-year-old saying "let's take the red jag!" and enjoying the pretentiousness of arriving on-site in the red car and unloading her and her violin. I felt much classier than my roots and upbringing normally allow. |
Who cares if something is seen as opulent or ostentatious ,the only people who think that are purely jealous and I don’t give two monkeys about people like that 👌🏻
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I agree, brother.
Originally Posted by X300exec
(Post 2384958)
Who cares if something is seen as opulent or ostentatious. The only people who think that are purely jealous and I don’t give two monkeys about people like that 👌🏻
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Originally Posted by captainobvious1
(Post 2384963)
You have that right. This is why I dress well when I head out the door. When I look good, I feel good. So many people dress like slobs. I'd rather be thought of as a "sharp-dressed man" than as some half-baked slob in sweats. They can take a long walk off a short pier.
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Originally Posted by X300exec
(Post 2384965)
i wear dungarees and a vest at work all week so when I go out I dress like the titled gentleman that I am 👌🏻
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Originally Posted by captainobvious1
(Post 2385045)
Very good. In the US, there are so many that refuse to dress as adults (torn "skinny jeans" and all that "stylish" rubbish). I prefer to be viewed as the educated person I am. Casual clothing is overrated. Dressing with a bit of dignity is far better and reflects breeding. Some people never seem to understand this. You refuse to look as if you are a rag picker. Thank God for that. There aren't many of us left, are there?
my weekend attire lol |
Originally Posted by X300exec
(Post 2385068)
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I opened my trunk with a battery booster. Seized lock and flat car battery.
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Silver 1995 XJ6 - Tried the wheel polishing method here on one wheel; loved the write-up, spot on w method and materials. Pics below. I like the dimple wheels in high polish! Re-hung loose driver and passenger door cards, and of course found some funky-a** wiring that made no sense; I believe the driver door lock mechanism was hard to turn or worn out, so instead of replacing it they cut the harness (@PD3) inside the driver door and ran two wires to the passenger side so that you could use THAT lock instead. Or something. I still need to finish tracing those wires... but set the alarm off enough to elevate my pulse the remainder of the day. Found that the front Driver side rotor was missing a set screw, and my stabilizer arm bushings were crunchy... new ones on the way.
Red 1996 VDP - Found (finally!) some matching leather dye from these folks, and got very close to the color of my oatmeal seats. But I need to look at the intake and exhaust manifolds and pull the upstream (some say downstream?) O2 sensor on the front bank since (gulp) it threw a CEL at me, P0420. Dammit. Will save that for next weekend maybe. The engine on this one always sounded different enough from the Silver 1995 to make me suspect a slight exhaust leak, so now I need to dig in. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...f84477edd9.png original condition https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...60f356fc34.png looking shiny! https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...4db2708684.png on the car... very nice |
Originally Posted by cafe flyer
(Post 2386462)
Silver 1995 XJ6 - Tried the wheel polishing method here on one wheel; loved the write-up, spot on w method and materials. Pics below. I like the dimple wheels in high polish! Re-hung loose driver and passenger door cards, and of course found some funky-a** wiring that made no sense; I believe the driver door lock mechanism was hard to turn or worn out, so instead of replacing it they cut the harness (@PD3) inside the driver door and ran two wires to the passenger side so that you could use THAT lock instead. Or something. I still need to finish tracing those wires... but set the alarm off enough to elevate my pulse the remainder of the day. Found that the front Driver side rotor was missing a set screw, and my stabilizer arm bushings were crunchy... new ones on the way.
Red 1996 VDP - Found (finally!) some matching leather dye from these folks, and got very close to the color of my oatmeal seats. But I need to look at the intake and exhaust manifolds and pull the upstream (some say downstream?) O2 sensor on the front bank since (gulp) it threw a CEL at me, P0420. Dammit. Will save that for next weekend maybe. The engine on this one always sounded different enough from the Silver 1995 to make me suspect a slight exhaust leak, so now I need to dig in. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...f84477edd9.png original condition https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...60f356fc34.png looking shiny! https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...4db2708684.png on the car... very nice |
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