When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Fixed the damn ba*tard pipe altogether with new water rail gaskets, intake manifold gasket and new thermostat. Yay, no coolant leaks anymore!
Now on to next thing - car has very increased fuel consumption, steams even when engine is warm and smells of petrol (not the white smoke of burning coolant - I know the difference), car is completely gutless even when floored and sometimes she just dies and then its difficult to start. Any ideas where to start? I`m thinking that she`s running very rich.
Also, some handy diagnostics tools that anyone can recommend?
Thanks, guys
Fixed the damn ba*tard pipe altogether with new water rail gaskets, intake manifold gasket and new thermostat. Yay, no coolant leaks anymore!
Now on to next thing - car has very increased fuel consumption, steams even when engine is warm and smells of petrol (not the white smoke of burning coolant - I know the difference), car is completely gutless even when floored and sometimes she just dies and then its difficult to start. Any ideas where to start? I`m thinking that she`s running very rich.
Also, some handy diagnostics tools that anyone can recommend?
Thanks, guys
OBDII bluetooth plug in with torque app will let you set up real time graphing of O2 sensor operation and a ton of other info.
Had some lols yesterday with jammed boot. Took out my battery for charging and accidentally closed the bootlid. Of course, the key was not working or was just damn frozen (tried all my sprays that I could find in my shed) and after about some 30mins of tinkering took another battery, booster wires, connected the bulkhead positive terminal, negative on a shock absorber and vuala - my fighting with the damn bootlid was done. Then tensioned the loose alternator belt that was squeaking so annoying, re fitted the coolant level sensor that somehow fell out from the bottom of the expansion tank and that was it for my day in the garage. Damn cold here and had no more inspiration. Next time lets do some basic maintenance. Filters, spark plugs, etc. Then off to diagnostics.
I have now viewed the vehicle. The damaged bearing was NOT the one attacked by the truck! The garage acquired the new bearing, but it was a loose fit on the stub axle, due to wear - it may be that the bearing had been spinning on the shaft! So now we are awaiting delivery of a new part. The mechanic said that there was evidence that the assembly had been attended to previously since there were centre punch marks around the race.
Collected the car this morning. MOT now OK for the year. Changed oil pressure sender, adjusted the hand brake. We're OK to go!
My favourite trim shop refused to help me out with the saggy headliner, so, as a saddler and leatherworker, I`ve decided to do the job by myself.
Removed all the stuff from headliner and on Tuesday a friend will lend me a helping hand so we will try and remove the headliner in one piece. Then it`s off to my workshop for re-trimming.
Since my left side wheelarch is looking pretty sad, i`ve ordered a replacement panel today and booked a visit to a body shop next month.
And here`s the little bassstard just sunbathing a little bit while waiting for those warm summer night cruises (and funny midnight friend emergency calls for a tow help lol).
My favourite trim shop refused to help me out with the saggy headliner, so, as a saddler and leatherworker, I`ve decided to do the job by myself.
(...)
Since my left side wheelarch is looking pretty sad, i`ve ordered a replacement panel today and booked a visit to a body shop next month.
(...)
I did both of these jobs last year and bought the same wheel arch panel. Headlining was a breeze and still looks great today, the wheel arch panel was a bi$ch to fit in and didn't exactly go flush with the bumper, my advice, replace as little of it as needed, hopefully you wont need the whole panel like I did.
**** i swear i have the weirdest problem lately. I bought a brand new remote from SNG Barrat last week because my old remote had broken buttons and super weak range. The car is like totally tripping out, when i put the car into learning mode it doesn't seem to pick up the new remote signal at all? and if i don't do anything it exits learning mode after 15 second so that would mean it would erase all previous remote ? but that was not the case... my broken remote would still work, and if i try to program the old remote in and it actually accepts it . WTF! and yes they are the same frequency which is 315mhz, im like so ****ing lost. any ideas? or is this a dealership visit to program with pdu?
There are 3 or 4 TSB on the remote as the Freq. changed over to 433 see the link below . Your original freq is on the back of the fob and is in very small print .
I did both of these jobs last year and bought the same wheel arch panel. Headlining was a breeze and still looks great today, the wheel arch panel was a bi$ch to fit in and didn't exactly go flush with the bumper, my advice, replace as little of it as needed, hopefully you wont need the whole panel like I did.
My only concern is to get the headlining out properly, without damaging the fiberglass foundation and to get it back in. But as far as I`ve searched for info,many of you guys have done it so I think it will be all good.
The wheelarch and painting will be in the hands of a body shop, since I`m no welder - everything that includes welding and painting are not the things i`m doing myself. I think that the whole panel will need replacing, because it looks badly and there`s even a bit of rust on the top of the sill (can be seen when the rear door is opened). But, since the body shop has good recomendations from my friends, I think it will be ok.
The most interesting part is that only the left wheelarch is rusted. Not else a single place anywhere on the car. I`ve inspected the car before purchasing it on a car lift, whole underbody looks like brand new (no, not freshly sprayed with antigravel, just factory new), door corners, front wheelarches, boot and bootlid, areas around windows, everything is flawless. And it doesnt look crashed either. My guess is that the rear left wheelarch has been dented or scraped years ago, left unattended and just slowly rusted into oblivion.
I finally got around to swapping out the headlights on my 95 X300 with a set from an X308 today. As advised by al_roethlisberg and detailed in other threads, I changed the headlights and mounting brackets. Due to the X308 brackets being slightly different, to accommodate the move of the park light from the dipped beam to the main beam. (low beam to high beam).
I found a helpful description of the job before starting at Jaguar XJ6; Jaguar X300; X308 headlights
As described the hardest part was soldering the original X300 plug to the X308 lights.
Its a fairly easy straightforward upgrade.
As an afterthought, if someone wanted to change the headlights and not the brackets (assuming the low beam and high beam are physically the same just aimed differently) You could swap the two around and keep the park light on the outside light). Although removing the entire assembly gave good access to the wiring loom for modifications.
Re-trimmed my headlining this week.
Removed old foam and glue with wire brush:
Then started to apply the new fabric:
Cost me some 60usd. approx. 40 for the fabric, 15 for the glue (use the Bondseal spray, works the best), 5 for the brush and wipes,and took me some 2 hours of work. Will install it next week.
Also, my wheelarch panel arrived, but the body shop`s been busy at the moment, so welding and painting is off to the next month.
I'm interested in how to redo the sun visor or if it's able to be cleaned with say a foaming and lifting carpet cleaning product . Or if the product would destroy what remains of the foam / glue backing .
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 03-15-2018 at 08:39 AM.
I'm interested in how to redo the sun visor or if it's able to be cleaned with say a foaming and lifting carpet cleaning product . Or if the product would destroy what remains of the foam / glue backing .
There's a how-to thread with pictures on here somewhere on recovering the visors. Not absolutely certain it is on the X300 section but believe so. In any case, it was applicable. They are a clamshell affair.
I inherited a bracket with all the plastic lugs broken off and the final straw was a broken post because too big of replacement screws were used. Finally sourced a complete bracket in good condition from a breaker and installed with proper screws and a 'light" touch when tightening screws. I am posting this as evidence because otherwise no one will know I did anything to the car!