Hi Parker 2,
I did some surfing for the IN435 voltage regulator and there are a lot of options out there.The prices I am seeing for the IN435 alone rage between $9 to $221.
I guess the real trick is finding a good manufacturer and supplier as you say.
I am hoping to only take the alternator out once, so getting a reliable part out of the box would be key. If you have had a good experience with alternatorparts,com, I might just go with their options.

 

I did not order a 3rd voltage regulator from the more expensive option like listed and ended up getting one from the salvage yard as a Denso brand alternator as the original manufacture

I broke one of the alternator castings getting one apart

The key to testing is to warn the regulator up under high electrical load as this is where the regulator and diode packages fail

 

Changed the EGR valve and cleaned out the ports, car idles smoother but still throws a P0400

 

Some codes take a couple of engine cycles to reset the code

See page 121 - 133 for a 1997

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Trai...20-%202000.pdf

The EGR temp sensor is located next to the EGR valve

See page 95

Notice the graph on how to test the sensor page 97

If you extrapolate the graph for about 80 degree F you hill read about 1000 ohms as the meter will power up the thermistor

This is about the same value for the simuler engine coolant temp sensor on page 78 and the engine inlet air temp sensor on page 86

​​​​​​The ECU connector has a history of being corroded the pins are Red 3 as the Red / Brpwn wire and Red 11 Blue / White wire which is the sensor group reference 5.0 volts DC

See page 50

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto.../jagxj1997.pdf



With a ELM 327 reader you can see a perimeter ( PID ) called EGR-ERROR that compares the valve commanded position to the actual position by an internal position sensor and not the other EGR temp sensor

The reading will fluctuate a bit as it modulates but the target value is 0.0

To test this with a meter the EGR valve should be fully closed at idle so the position sensor should read 4.9 volts DC reference page 49 of the wiring guide

This requires the valve is powered with the 5.0 reference voltage

 

Replaced the ignition coil on my first cylinder

 

Changed the off side reversing light. { Sovereign }

 

Almost finished getting one back on the road that was bought broken and apart. Previous owner tried to replace ******* hose and gave up when he broke the fuel rail! Anybody have a spare rail laying around to save me a trip to the junkyard? Thanks!

 

Went out for a quick spin and realized the car just hit a minor milestone.
191919 miles and still going strong.

 

G’day All,

Recently the door switch pack controls for my external rear vision mirror have become intermittent so I removed the inner door card and took the switch pack apart and cleaned the contacts and carbon pads with a cotton tip and contact cleaner and now all is good. While I was in there I noticed that the diaphragm on my door speaker was crumbling away to dust so on the logic that if one is U/S the rest probably are I replaced all four. I took the errant speaker to a car audio shop and sourced replacements. Of course the plug didn’t match so a little snipping and soldering and all was good.

Mirror works and speakers sound good.

Cheers.

 

Added locking wheel nuts.

1994 4.0 Sovereign { Blue }

 

Same color as M'Lady Penelope

I put the chrome mirrors , door handles , and rear seat picnic tables in it from the VDP model

and cleaner X308 headlight assemblies

Your wiper is on the wrong side , it just ain't right

 

I replaced all four disc brake rotors after only 352000 kilometres. Everything else in the neighbourhood looked good.

Cheers.

 

Received a new piece of bling in the mail last night and went straight out to install my new gear knob.

On the upside, I realized when I went out this morning that I had left the Map light on and to my surprise, although the engine was a little sluggish, fired up without a problem.

 

How much was that gear knob, also, what kind of xj is that? Weird seeing the shifter without a sport mode switch underneath

 

95 XJ6 3.2lt, Base, X300 Agreed, Id really like a sports mode button as well Oh well, I'd also like a 4lt engine lol, The list goes on.
I picked up the gear knob off eBay for 80 AUD including postage. Wasn't exactly what I was after but the price was right. As I've seen them go for at least double that and there is only so much I'd pay for a gear knob

 

Id never removed the steering wheel and airbag from an X300 and as per standard I was determined to over complicate things immensely, and read every scrap I could find online, to properly prepare myself.

I read about disconnecting the battery 5, 10 or 30 minutes before attempting the job. I read about removing the steering wheel cowling to access the bolts holding the airbag in place from the rear of the steering wheel and I read that the job likely takes about an hour.

Well against popular wisdom and probably common sense I didn't bother disconnecting the battery and promised myself I'd just be careful. I didn't bother removing the cowling and was able to gain access to the two T30 Torx screws holding the airbag on, from the rear of the steering wheel by just rotating the steering wheel 45 deg to the left for one, then 45 deg to the right for the other. It was then a simple matter of disconnecting the positive and negative wires and lifting it off.

I made sure the steering lock was on so I could loosen the centre bolt about a turn with a 17mm socket, Once it was loose I gave the steering wheel a bit of a wiggle to make sure it was free and able to be removed. Then removed the centre bolt the rest of the way and lifted the old steering wheel out.

Reassembly was the exact opposite procedure and just as straight forward, the whole operation took me a generous 20 to 30 min
In hindsight, I really probably should have disconnected the battery, Rocking the steering wheel lose with the centre bolt still in place is a great idea and wards off the possibility of the wheel coming free abruptly and breaking your nose. Additionally, I kept the front wheels straight when taking off and installing the new to ensure everything was straight.

refurbished steering wheel

 

I think they had an off day, they put the steering wheel the wrong side to match the wiper.
John

 

Buttoned up (well mostly need to still to put the rear seat back )diff replacement (used 3.58:1 powr lok unit, cost 100€). Changed the wheel bearings, fulcrum bearings, powerflex rollbar bodybushings, diff monostrut and shocks (shock label attached) at the same go. Rock auto supplied bilstein b6s did not come with new upper isolator bushings so be advised to check when ordering... but luckily the old isolatora were pretty OK still so used those. Spring isolators I had new.

Mostly uneventful, just pretty tedious job in general. No stuck or broken bolts or nuts outside the output shaft flange nuts that I managed to mangle pretty badly due metric tools and unf nuts. Luckily I found new ones in hardware store relatively nearby



most annoying part was getting the exhaust mounts fixings in place

 

I got my manual XJR back from my mechanic Mark tonight.
I have had it 5 1/2 years. Crashed it, rebuilt it. Done 90,000km in that time. New nearly everything.
tonight it is back from new front inner lower suspension bushes, a month ago new rear outer lower bearings, diff shaft bearings, rebuilt all Bilstein shock absorbers.
it rides taut, like a new car.
goes like a stolen bushfire (to mix a couple of metaphors)

in 9 days I have a 1000km road trip to my childhood town to visit my mum, looking forward to taking the old coastal road north of Auckland and avoiding the motorway.
Yee-Hah

 

Got a few bits and pieces done today. After admiring the Andy timing bracket I had a crack at modelling and printing my own version in titanium which came out quite nicely . Finally managed to find the correct Dayco submersible in tank fuel hose for the repair that left me stranded 2 weeks ago .

The next little project to hit is modelling and printing some new parts for the plastic cup holder .

in the near future I’d like to fabricate some exhaust manifolds for it so that eventually when the cast ones crack I’ve got something to put on it .