id like one of those brackets ,how much please 🤔

 

You need to talk to Andy and buy one of his aluminium ones . This one is only for me because I can and it was fun.

 

After a few frustrating weeks of trying find the cause of a rattle towards the back of the car when driving I think found it.
I checked everything under the back of the car, pulled out the rear seats and stripped out the trunk. I found a number of wires that had come loose due to broken down electrical tape. It was also an opportunity to tighten down a number of almost loose nuts and bolts.
It was only when I was staring at the empty trunk that I thought to give the gas tank a shake and there it was.
Somehow the tank strap bolts had worked loose and although the tank wasn't moving, the metal straps were banging against the tank and echoing through the cabin. A good tightening up and refit of the trunk linings and I am happy to report that the noise is gone

Although, I find myself on what seems to be an unending mission to silence every rattle and creak on the car. Is this possible on a 97 Jag?

 

Changed:

• Andy bracket and new crank sensor on Saturday ( one bolt on sc tensioner assemply was rounded of so dremel was the solution this time)
• changed also the idler pulley on sc belt and new 7 rib belt at the same time used VKM 34111 SKF roller (smaller dimension than the original but there is enough adjustment on the tensioner + you get nice bolt as extra to be used somewhere else)

Sunday to monday; exercises in futility with the bloody accelerator cable adjustment and cleaning + lubrication. I dismantled cabling from traction control unit and cleaned the tc to throttle body cable with WD40 and then lubricated with clean oil. Bloody thing is showing 11% -94% in obd reader for tb potentiometer movement so I was happy as pig in s..t. Reassembling and adjusting pedal stopper screw I was still getting11%-89% reading so still pretty happy (the pedal to tc unit cable was bit on the loose side so the 5% loss of movement was pretty good). Taking a test drive.... first intersection 12,5 % reading on the obd and high idle.... blipping the throttle get´s it back to normal but every bloody time it stays high when getting off the pedal. Next stop will be detaching the cruice control mechanism from the throttle body and seeing if that helps.

 

From reading others and myself the TPS at idle comes into the value of between 11 - 13 %

This can be because of a reference point of absolute 0 % if the IAC is completely closed at idle which it is not

If the traction control cable has no pulling tension at idle on the throttle cable you are good there

Throttle return spring TSB ? Some have used the original spring and preloaded it to a higher retracted setting

See link below

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...igh%20Idle.pdf

 

Hi Parker

in this particular car engine running 11,0% 11,4% and 11,8% readings are associated with normal idle, 12,5% is already causing the idle to rise (meaning it goes out of the ECU idle control at that point or the idle control via IAC-valve is not enough to compensate, right?). I have been too lazy to be bothered to measure the TPS signal voltage and have been just using obd readings.

TB return (linear) spring has been shortened and like I said the system seems to be operating rationally and consistently (11%-89% tps reading when operating the accelerator pedal) when ignition on but engine not running and this I find bit weird, I do need to double check if tc off or tc non powered (connector off) would make anykind of difference. As to check if the disconnecting of cruise control bellows from the tb would change things. I reaaally do not want to go and dismantle tb again, did that and had loads of fun last year

let´s see when the weather clears enough to go out and do something about this... as fall seems to be here in force

 

whooaa, now as I reread the TSB I realized that we were talking about two different springs, you were indicating the actual tb butterfly return (coil) spring and I was talking about the linear spring ( I guess reading TSB more carefully the linear spring is/was designed for the cruise control bellows return.)

and the TSB indicating that it would be possible to do it in situ from top. Well I will check this on weekend and see what kind of catastrophe I can cook up ...

thanks Parker

 

Hello AnttiM,

I am having similar issues with my XJR6, I have replaced the butterfly coil spring which did not address the issue, I believe I need to replace the linear spring you mention, however I cannot find a source for a new one. Please let me know if you know where to get these.

Thanks,
nickdabs

 

There are two main springs in the TB, the bottom one that goes weak and cost $3 new from Jaguar and the top one that sits under these two metal plates where cables attach. If you undo the 4 torx screws that hold the top bit you'll get access to both, the bottom one can simply be replaced at this point, the top one add an extra turn and some grease and will work as new. I've just done it on my latest x300(done it few years back on the previous one), with an extra turn in the top spring, there is no way the butterfly plate will not fully close, that extra turn adds a fair amount of extra force, if that doesn't work there is clearly an issue somewhere else.

Anyway, my latest work






I've partially broken it a while ago while fitting rear ARB and diff monobrace as entire rear suspension was hanging on exhaust and left side turned out to be rotten and a single exhaust didn't like all that weight...
Anyway, few days back it snapped completely so had to take it off the car, have to say these Jag boxes are amazing quality, apart from some surface rust they are still in excellent condition, I even reused old Jag clamps that never been removed before. Plenty material to weld to too, that pipe was 1mm even where it broke off, I'm truly amazed and if you have similar issue, rest assured these middle or centre boxes can easily be repaired.
The rear exhaust box though is a different story, although the right one is original and pipes are still nice and strong, the bottom of the box almost rotted away. I think this must be a bit of water sitting at the bottom of it as it always rots there first. with middle boxes water generally cant sit there so they last much longer, this one though, not so. That said the other side was replaced a few years back with the cheapo chinese one and the pipe on that one rotted away completely, so that just shows how good these Jag boxes are compared to generic stuff that owners normally use afterwards
I'm actually thinking about cutting off pipes of this rear box and welding them to the cheapo spare box I still have in my spares as the box normally lasts much longer than the pipe itself.

 

I got my XJR road legal again today after just over 2 years since it's last MOT ran out. It's quite a long list of work that was done in the intervening time, which I'll post elsewhere, but here it is stopping off on a short drive this evening



There are some small jobs left to do, the visible one in the photos is to add the pin-strips back to the re-painted front & rear wings (fenders). Most pressing though is to work out why the speedo isn't working (it's not checked on the UK MOT) I know it's driven from the LH rear ABS sensor, which was replaced, I just need to work through the checks in the wiring.

 

Well it was not today, but yesterday I got my XJR back from Turner Classics in Manston, Kent after having the suspension rebuilt with poly bushes, the X308 monostrut and XJREngineer's modification to accept an X100 anti-roll bar. The car feels like new and handles and steers very accurately. The ride is not harsh and you still glide along, so very happy.

 

How scary is the price for having the suspension done (1 to 10)?

 

Not totally sure yet as I have not had the invoice for the labour yet. The parts were a fair wack the polyflex bushes are £469 from Adamesh for the complete whole car kit. On top of that I sourced an XJ8 mono strut (the bushes for this are the same as those in the X300 polyflex kit and I ended up accidentally ordering Jaguar sport bushes which are now on eBay unused), paid £30 for the mono strut. Bought the drop link kit from Andy to allow an X100 uprated anti-roll bar to be fitted. You can get those from Power House, more cost and then I suspect I am going to get a bill for 2 days labour.

So I would say 9.5/10

I already had Andy's front drop link kit fitted without that it would have been 10 on the pain scale. However, my car is in time warp condition so it is probably worth it as I have no desire to sell and know I would never recover the costs of these "exercises". I'd better start using it more (obviously when no salt is on the road - he says...)

 

Thank you Nick, that’s good information as I will need to have mine done soon as just driven (pre lockdown) about 20 times on a rutted farm track to get to holiday cottage lol

This is mine...

 

Just over a month ago I bought a 97 Vanden Plas (124000m) to replace my green Base XJ6 (194000m) which had an unfortunate encounter with a VW.
The VP was came with a number of nigglling issues and a few more serious ones.
Since getting the VP, I have done the following

• Swapped the Radio Head Unit from the old car
• Repaired the 'chopped Trunk Wiring Harness that was cut by the right hinge
• Replaced the Trunk Closed Sensor on the Locking mechanism
• Swapped the door speakers from the old car
• Swapped over the EGR Valve and Idle Control Valve as occasional codes were showing (I since found out I have a crack in both exhaust manifolds, good ones from the old car to be swapped over)
• Replaced a number of front bushings and Shock Absorbers. Rears to be done soon (Went with Monroe's for cost reasons)
• Swapped over the newer QYL Coils from the old car
• Checked, cleaned and gapped the Spark Plugs (will replace for new another time)
• Swapped over the center clock panel as the original one was failing
• Replaced the Air Filter
• Removed and cleaned out the Throttle Body
• Checked all fuses
• Replaced the Wiper Blade for a standard Bosch (I tried a single beam Michelin before but it didn't 'hug' the windshield to the end of the blade)
• Adjusted the Throttle Cable
• Swapped over about 6 door trim plugs and retainers as they were ripped

There a few more jobs to do, but the next major ones are

• Replace Rear Shocks and maybe the upper Spring Bushing
• Swap over the Exhaust Manifolds (Will do this next)
• Major Fluids (Oil Trans, Brake, Steering)
• Replace Valve Cover Gaskets and Bolt Seals
• Take a look at the Window Rails as they are getting old/loose and rattling occasionally
• Decide on how to refresh the seat leather as there are some minor cracks and scratches

As for today,

• Adjusted the kickdown switch (I went too far when I adjusted it a few days ago)
• Cleaned the Fuel Filler Drain hole as it was caked with dirt
• Had my first attempt at Paintless Dent Repair and managed to smooth out a 1 inch dent on the rear quarter. It's not perfect but barely noticeable now (has anyone else tried PDR on the X300's)

I am getting to the point where I have everything I need from the old (now donor) car. I am going to hoard as many parts as I can before it has to go.
It is a 97 4.0l Base model, which ran really well before I started cannibalizing it, apart from the front left quarter having serous body damage and some Sun damage on the paintwork
Anyone interested in a scavenged XJ6?

 

Removed the X308 pentas I had and fitted the original wheels to my XJR6, with some retro centre caps and some new tyres. Check it out.

 

@Cafcpete and @nickdabs both beautiful cars!

cafcpete - is all that original? it looks like an XJR on the outside and a Daimler/Super V8 on the inside. I didn't know that such a machine existed - love it. I always think of XJR as sporty but not luxury (picnic tables etc.)

 

Thank you Branden. Its all original, it was a special order from the factory, short wheelbase XJR6 with Daimler V12 interior.
I had always loved the idea of the supercharger but didn’t like the dark wood (I am old in my taste!) so I was thrilled when this one came up for sale. I paid a bit more than I wanted at the time, but haven’t seen another!

Nick it looks so much better (IMHO) on the original wheels! Did you change the tyre size from spec to improve the tramline tendency?

Peter

 

Yeah, that's me too.

If you ever want to sell it, there's cash here waiting!

 

Just changed the drivers ( right hand ) inner door handle.
The door was opening at the very last mm of pull so I knew I needed to do it soon, but wasn’t till getting it out I found just how close it was to breaking!