See page 60 and pic on page 66 of the Jaguar Engine Management Systems # S801 pdf link

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Trai...20-%202000.pdf :icon_dance-disco:

There are 2 versions :

one vapor canister just forward of the left rear wheel which involves a Rochester valve

2 vapor canister version with the second canister just fwd of the right rear wheel and does not have a Rochester valve but a electric controlled canister close valve

You can check this without jacking the car

Thanks so much Parker 2 -

I think I may print this out for reading comprehension. Turns out my 1995 and 1996 are both single-canister after peering under them this morning with coffee cup in hand. Getting a systems overview is extraordinarily helpful for me, even just page 7 showing engine control inputs and outputs clarifies many things. Now I can tackle these types of issues with more confidence - this guide as a logical/cognitive baseline, with the wisdom of the forums layered on top. If you ever travel to the four corners region, would be happy to host up here in Santa Fe (he says, with sore arm from vaccination yesterday). Will now google Rochester Valve for grins.

Cheers.

There is a Delco equivalent on may laptop somewhere

There was hints of people installing the Rochester hoses incorrectly

Your garage poster is on page 54 . The Office Max like print shops can make into a large laminated image that you can color in with windows art beforehand

The EVAP Evaporative Valve up front under the air filter can be tested with a 9 volt battery for the valve clicking and free moving

I use to drive through northern Texas toward Santa Fe but turning north on Hubway 518 to Taos to ski at my favorite , Telluride

There are probably a lot of examples of the vapor canisters rusting and leaking but can be repaired with JB Weld

1995 Silver XJ6 - fabricated new battery holding clip (old one was AWOL and moving battery kinda messed with my ground cable), coolant flush, thermostat replacement, renewed radiator and condenser grommets, learned about the white donut that can get stuck on the coolant level https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...esolved-92120/ LED lights for trunk and license plate

1996 Red Vanden Plas - put a green mini-wedge LED light in the bulb socket that comes with the cigarette lighter.. nice to have a little light in the ashtray when the headlights are on, just to see if I left my phone charging cable in there :) sometimes the little things keep you going

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...604b5a3455.jpg

Did my first oil-change...

What sadistic piece of shit decided where to put the oil filter!!?
i got a facefull of oil trying to wiggle the old one past the steering rack and intercooler bracing - next time i think i will pay someone to do it for me :icon_angel:

Polish 😇
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...c64557560.jpeg

oil filter? that's a breeze I usually remove my air inlet (MAS) for a clean and remove and refit the oil filter from under the bonnet. If you want to find the definition of sadistic engineering wait till you change the Fuel filter. Remembering this is supposed to be a serviceable item, you have to drop one of the exhaust pipes to get at it, get flat on your back and do a quick change over with fuel running down your arms and possibly in your face. Why did anyone think it was a good idea to put a serviceable item directly under the fuel tank where once disconnected you can't stop fuel from syphoning off. I've read descriptions of pulling the fuel pump fuse to run the fuel out of the line which sounds good in theory. However, I've tried it and as soon as you pull the fuse the fuel pressure drops and the engine stalls. This may take the pressure out of the line but doesn't stop you from getting a face full of petrol/gas once you unscrew the old one. (Happy to be corrected and will take any and all advice)

No top access possible for the XJR unfortunately, and its got heaps of extra braces propping the intercooler up, so getting the filter out is really tricky.

Fuel filter was a lot easier, though the bolt holding the bracket in place sure didn't want to go back in!
In my experience, you only loose about 1dl of fuel when disconnecting the line, so just keep a container ready when loosening the line.

It might be easier to remove the lower end of the inter cooler brace, it is pretty flexible then.. When I got the car the brace was not connected at the bottom end.

and seems that dismantling the inlet tract from air filter box to inter cooler it might be possible to reach the oil filter from the top. At least it _seemed_ like that last summer when I was playing around with the TB return springs... I go pretty ok with removing the intake tract at that point :icon_angel:

yeah, loosening a brace might help avoid having to tip it over on the way down, spilling oil all over the place.
not much help removing the inlet elbow tract unfortunately...
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...2fd9c2b2b0.jpg

While working on the 1995 Silver XJ, I spent a few hours trying to track down a turn signal issue on the right side. Turn signal flashing at double speed, indicating a fault, bulb works fine out of the socket. Spent some time laying on the ground looking at the wiring harness and the BR1 connector... I traced/identified all of the wires going in from the bumper (RH fog lamp, RH side marker light, RH turn signal light... and Ambient Temp Switch? have yet to set eyes on that) into the male side of the BR1 connector. Colors match the elect diagrams, yay.. 13 pin connector, only using pins 2-8, check.

Then I looked at the female side of the BR1, which I am supposing leads to the RH Front Lighting Control Module and RS13 + RS30 (note my surprise when I realize that my 1996 does NOT have one of these lighting control modules in the front... and thank goodness after an hour I realized I was looking at the 1996 elect guide... found the 1995 guide and regained my sanity for a minute or two).

QUESTION: Should the pins and colors on the BR1 connector match up from the male (bumper) side to the female (back into engine bay) side of the harness? I laid on the ground in the dirt and the only colors that seemed to match up pin-to-pin were the ground wires. Of course it was getting late by this time and I might be hallucinating, but I thought maybe the connector on the female side was doing something behind the scenes. The silver car was in an accident in the distant past and the harness suffered some other trauma at the hands of my 18 year old, so I need to thoroughly trace and fix the mess... I hate running splices badly patched with electrical tape, but the non-matching colors and pins has me up late and distressed.

Will post some pics tomorrow of either side of the BR1 connector...

Cheers

CF

The flashing comes from a current sensor in the light control unit , a high resistance in the wiring mimic a burnt out bulb

The 13 pin connectors can corrode behind the pins and sockets not being able to be seen

The bulbs if I recall have looping contact wires that don't make proper contact in the sockets , you can spring them back out

There was a change in the exterior light wiring in 95 with production # X , you may have a mix of old version and new version wire harness as they mate

Looking at your wire colors .........and snow

On mine one of the 13 pin connectors was missing so they twisted the wires together with electrical tape . They even had a wire bundle with some engine regulation dragging on the tire exposing the copper wire

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...5eb4689be7.png

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...5d351fbb93.png

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...bcd719abc0.jpg

Thanks Parker 2... had to read "looking at snow" in your post twice, then realized it was literal, and reminded me of The WastelandOrdered two AMP 13 pin connectors, wish me luck in matching colors across the BR1 connection when they arrive. Now I must go out and water my lilacs since the spring rain has yet to arrive here.

Back to the email salt mines.

CF

Thank you for this post about the rear shocks! I have to do this job in a few weeks! Greatly appreciated!

BR1 was the connector missing on mine

Let me see if I have a pin /color map on a older computer

Need some wire labels 1 - 10 ?

The part # circled in the picture is not for the whole connector but just the face plate

At least BR1 is not mission-critical! Thanks for the product info; did manage to find the male kit and female kit, ordered two of each just in case.

I did track down the following for the 1995 XJ (all RH), which I think covers the BR1 pinout, and I hope this helps someone else :)

BR1 - 2: Red/Orange, Fog Lamp
BR1 - 3: Red/White, Side Marker Lamp
BR1 - 4: Green/Purple (?), RH Direction Indicator
BR1 - 5: Black (ground for Fog Lamp, Side Marker, Direction Indicator.. they are spliced together in the harness)
BR1 - 6: Green/Yellow, RH Direction Indicator
BR1 - 7: Black/White, Ambient Temp Switch (not the Sensor!)
BR1 - 8: Orange/Yellow, Ambient Temp Switch

So... tested all bulbs in the harness, multimeter to test all wires (all good), and made sure no copper was left exposed. Hooked it up to car, but fog light is still out and right hand signal is still double-time showing a fault. BUT eliminated everything after BR1, which is a big step.

Final question: should the colors on the female side of BR1 (leading back into wheel well and car) match the colors above on the male side (harness that sits in bumper, and in picture below)? Maybe an easier answer is if Parker 2 was missing BR1 and soldered like color to like color, then I should make sure mine match.

Hope that makes sense! Was actually really satisfying to pull the whole little front right bumper harness, fix it up, test all the bulbs, and re-wrap in heat-resistant tape...
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...d336488c51.png
Harness forward of BR1, RH side, sad connector in my hand who wonders where the Ambient Temp Switch went... and if they were ever really that close


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...5c2130f3a6.png
Back side of female BR1 connector

After 20 minutes of taking pictures and notes, I have even less of an idea of what is going on... since the only pins that match color is the Black ground pin... argh:. Time to go make dinner (but I may quickly check to see if my RH turn signal lights up when I turn on the fog lights)
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...ca1b0a5c57.png

Looks like I will have to trace the female leads back to the RH Lighting Control Module to see what is going on.

Kidney Doctors appointment tomorrow so I won't be back til late tomorrow

Standard practice is to use the front side of the connector but I can still use your afts

Ambient temp switch on the right side brake cooling duct is for the window washer fluid nozzle heaters ( yep ) this causes the alternator voltage regulator fuse to pop

I'm puzzled by these comments about changing the oil filter on an XJR6. I've changed mine 3 times now and never had a problem with getting it out or with oil spillage. On my Race Ramps the low ride height makes getting under the car a bit of a squeeze but thats the only issue I have. I could see getting the fuel filter would be a problem as it didn't look like it had been changed for many years so I got my local Jag specialist to do this.

it's because you UK lads have the steering rack/shaft on the other side ;)

Parker 2 - may the doctor visit go well :) And thanks for the tip on the ambient temp switch; saved me future work and expense.

After a good nights sleep, I got everything sorted today in work breaks. Probably the most confusing thing was the fact that the existing male side of harness itself pinned out as per diagrams, but the female side was completely wrong except for ground... have no idea if it came from the factory that way or if it was just from incompetence in the past.

Also figured out, in the process, how to get the female pins out of the AMP connector. First take off the yellow cover, then shine a flashlight into the top of the pin you want to remove, with connector body in a vise. Use a stiff small wire like a safety pin to depress the plastic tab that hangs down and retains the metal clip. Press hard on that tab, and pull the wire from the back. Works like a charm! After tracing and verifying wire colors and where they terminate on the RH Front Lamp Control Module, I was able to get the female pins into the proper matching spots for the male pins coming in from the rebuilt harness. If this is useful to anyone, happy to post pics.

Everything cleaned up and connected, still got the double-time blinker... dammit. One last check? bulb was out; after testing it, I laughed. New bulb, and everything in working order.

Shout out to all the forum folks for sharing small victories and frustrations - keeps me engaged and learning. Glad I don't have to change the oil on an XJR :)

-CF