Fuel cap cover flap lock mechanism wasn't working. When car was locked the pin was still retracted.
I learnt how the boot lining comes out. I learnt how the lock motor comes out and decides to work as soon as you have unbolted, unscrewed and unclipped everything.
Testing the motor, after checking that I had a 12v pulse on the signal wire, showed that it was working.
Bolted everything back together. Works a treat.
If everything else that needs attention comes to life as soon as I unbolt it, I will be a happy chappy.

 

So I had a mixed long weekend.
had some stuff that i couldn't sort that annoyed me like my central lock dash button and security light not working.

but,
I degreased the crap out of the front of my engine to find 100% the source of the oil leaks,
I repaired my boot lock, i could not open the boot with the key, so i took apart, cleaned and lubed the lock barrel, and now it works sweet as.
I recoloured the bottom parts of my door trims with oatmeal leather colourant, recoloured my steering wheel and hand brake lever with antelope colourant, and finished off with some matte leather finisher.
next up is the seats. atleast the rear seat, i may need more colour to do the fronts as they are real bad so will probably do the back, buy more colour and then do the fronts.

 

The doors look great. How do you like the finish, is the leather still soft?
Mine are in need of attention as well especially the drivers seat and door handle.

 

leather is still really soft.
one thing i find is that it has ended up too shiny after the finisher was put on.
so this would be easy rectified for future by adding some duller into the leather finisher which is sold for that exact purpose.
or what i am going to do now is i have ordered a can of spray matte finisher from another company that is recommended to be matte and people have used it over the exact finisher i used for the exact reason with great results.

once the colour was put on they looked amazing and had a nice matte finish to them. a finisher is needed tho to seal the colour in and give it a top coat protection so that it lasts longer. without the finisher it will mark too easy. like paint without a clear coat.

deciding whether or not i want to get some leather putty so that i can properly refinish the steering wheel 100%. at this point i don't think i will, i have too many other jobs on the plate atm with the car.

 

Definitely on my to do list. Have been reading good things about the scratch doctor products.
I might try looking for a matte leather finisher, also going to need some putty for the cracks in the seat.

 

Installed my home made carbon fibre airbox to new to me XJR (car only had a pod filter stuck on end of MAF tube), air temp sensor is bridged. (Stock air box is in transit from Tasmania)
I fitted two new tyres and got a safety inspection done.
Passed. Paid the Government Corporation money and took her for her first good drive.
Here's where I ask for input/advice.
She drives nicely, with a light right foot. Any spirited pedal action results in a surging acceleration (well not really acceleration, if you take my meaning)
Sometimes I can achieve boosted acceleration, but mostly she doesn't seem to want to play.
I have run car, at night with cover off coil packs. No light show. There is a miss at idle, so will be replacing spark plugs.
Wondering if this is a symptom that has been experienced by others and if anyone can point me in the right direction for diagnosis.
Thank you all.

 

not sure on that at all but what i came here to say was if you happen to find any parts cars around at wreckers you should let us know incase in need of anything.

 

Second hand airbox is being sourced from a Gent who is wrecking his previous daily driver and is located in Tasmania, Australia. He has listed lots of parts on Gumtree.com.au

 

Replacement spark plugs were fitted. Whilst doing so, I discovered that that cam cover seals had been leaking oil into plug wells.
After cleaning everything and putting it back together she still has a miss.
Have ordered seal kit and will check valve clearances whilst apart.
Ran a lot harder, this morning but later developed the surge upon acceleration. I suspect oil ingress into plug Wells to be the cause.

 

Oil in the spark plug/coil wells is a common issue. It is worth changing all of the valve cover seals (cover gasket, spark plug well seals and bolt seals) while your at it if you don't know the history.
Try to make sure all of the surfaces are clean and corrosion free particularly where the spark plug seals sit.
I had oil leaks there on both my x300's and it does solve one cause of occasional misfires. Also it is really satisfying to lift the coils and see it clean when you open it up in the future.

 

After fitting new plugs and cleaning oil from plug recesses, she ran better.
I decided that a good run may help blow out some cobwebs, whilst I wait for new rocker cover seals to arrive on Monday.
Made it around 40km before she lost power and just wouldn't react to throttle input, slowed and died.
Now she will crank and fire, but stall immediately.
Roadside assistance towed home. Now back in the shed. I am praying that it's a blocked fuel filter.
No codes stored (obdII) Checked fuel pump fuses ok.

 

Removed my old leaper. And I would like to get new one. But I am wondering which style leaper is original for 1995 X300 Sovereign?

 

Had a pretty good day today.
installed a 4ch remote unit to give remote operation of Headlights, Highbeams, hazards and horn.

Connected it into one of the spare ports of the LH engine bay box.
power goes into remote box.
negative connects to ground stud near lh engine bay relays,
negative bridges across all 4 terminals of the remote unit.
then power out from each channel.
1 - goes to LH and RH low beam relays
2 - goes to High Beam relay
3 - cable runs through firewall (grommet near glovebox) up to hazard light switch
4 - connected to horn relay. Will connect this with a electronic flasher unit so that the horn beep beep beeps rather than solid on when i can get one.

(video below does not show horn but “D” activates horn)

 

Thanks to @cdma for the new toolbox lid label, i was able to replace my worn and illegible fuse box diagram with a much better looking one.
Got some new foam tape 3mm thick 5mm wide so now it looks so much better.
just need to find some spanners that fit in.
10mm-11mm and 15mm-17mm if i am not mistaken.

 

10 , 13 and 15 are the most used

 

shouted at my window winders and heater to no effect

 

G’day Spud,

Here’s a pic of my tool kit, the spanners as you can see are 15/13 mm and 10/8 mm. My 10/8 spanner was missing when I bought the car and I tracked one down on eBay.

Cheers,
Jeff.

 

The leaper you are holding has a rectangular base , the X300 and possibly the X308 has a teardrop shape base that needs this second base half , Spring loaded pivot upper Jaguar

 

Bosco 15
There is a Jaguar service bulletin about misfiring on the AJ16 engine which appears initially to be addressed to the XJR. On my 1996 sport X300 it had a rough idle when I bought it. Compression on two cylinders was well down around 115-120.PSI.
The service bulletin addressed the problem of carbon build up on the exhaust valve stems. This appears to become a problem when the car is driven continuously in a city/town environment.
There are two recommended fixes..
(1) Replace the valves with a special "cutter" valve
(2) Take the car on the open road and give it a hard workout.
I used option 2 and loaded up the fuel with about 4 times the recommended upper cylinder lubricant.
After a 50 Ks run in intermediate gears keeping the revs around 4000 in a 100Ks zone but with lots of slowdowns and full throttle acceleration the valve stems freed up, all compressions returned to normal and the idle was smooth.

On my previous 1994 X300 I had heaps of problems with cutting out, failing to accelerate from the lights etc. Turned out both oxygen sensors had failed.
Cheers

 

Picked up a new passenger today.
safety first.
made sure he is nice and buckled in.