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Now I would like the radio display to match the two others, how complicated is it to open the radio and change the bulbs behind the display?
I have the original radio fitted to the x300.
/Christian
The radio was a nightmare if I remember correctly. I think some of the bulbs were even soldered down. Unfortunately I threw away my stock unit, and I never took any pictures.
All of the radio bulbs are soldered to the pcb. I had to sand the leds down for height so they would fit inside the clear plastic frame that distribites the light
Thanks for this very helpful thread. For those who rather prefer to preserve the original (green) look of the instrument lighting, this is what I did:
When fixing the common ribbon cable clock problem with a new akspeedo ribbon cable, I also ordered two blue LEDs to avoid heat/cable problems in the future. However, I wasn't happy with the strong blue light. As I wasn't able to find green Neo Wedge LED bulbs (and supposed anyway that they would have been far to bright and too green), I ordered the white ones (they called them "Xenon") at 1 Euro a piece. Then I took a short piece of the typical green shrinking tube normally used for insulating blank cable connections. The diameter has to be somewhat bigger than the one of the bulbs. A short contact with a lighter made them shrink around the upper part of the bulb, and while the plastic is still hot and soft, I pressed the upper opening together with two fingers in order to close it.
Worked perfectly, and even if the light is somewhat brighter than the ones of the radio and the temp control, in my opinion it really looks nice.
BTW: No need in my case to modify neither the holes in the board nor the bulbs themselves - they just fitted perfectly.
Regards
Martin
Excellent work! I'm impressed. Now, do you have the pin-outs for the air-conditioning control module? I'm trying to install a 7" touch-screen into the ski-slope part of the dash, but even with a custom surround space is tight. If I had the pin-outs for this module I could move it, or perhaps even replace it with an arduino driven custom unit :-)
The third brake light throws a fuse with the LED wedge bulbs. Did you ever deal with that. I realize the bulbs might have to be switched. But I only encountered this issue here. I have been replacing the lights with LEDs. Install a resistor?
thanks for the reply !!
I noticed that some bulbs have already been replaced before, and indeed the support of the missing one has many traces of the presence of an old bulb. why would this light have been deleted?
a cylinder head gasket in perspective? (there is a little oil in the coolant jar, I do not know the history of the car, but I know that Jaguar has reinforced the cylinder head gasket)
I don't understand why this car was so badly tinkered with !!
initially I repair the car of my neighbor for a pb of seat, steering wheel and mirrors broken down.
after replacing the column box and rear view mirror and a fuse everything comes back in order.
the seat memory remains inoperative, but not serious because not used...
so I set out to convert the entire center console into a led, and repair the clock.
led white strip (led type:5050 daylight white) with 1 diode 1N4148 and one 1K ohm 0.6w resistor. The strip was glued (because with extremly hot temperature i think the tape was no resist) led + 1 diode 1N4148 + 1 resistor 1K ohm 0.6w
Loving the work, and will steal your ideas for the strip lighting.
I wanted red needles and so put red leds in the gauges, but this does leave very dim green faces (mainly the 4 aux ones), so adding green strip lights could well fix the problem.
The photo shows things brighter than they are, but gives an idea of what I mean.
Yes ! You can use a led strip ! for me it's the best way to have a luminous uniformity for the background.
I use un daylight white, because the other color like blue en red were no longer visible.
I also wanted to put red LEDs for the needles, but the problem is that the red led also lights the background and therefore I did not have the desired effect.
I would have to isolate the LED of the lighting of the needle while painting the plexiglass light guide or put a black plastic tube around it (not the shrink tubing because it is hot in summer and it is worse)(don't forget to frost the led with sandpaper to give a more diffuse light)
For the km lcd I frosted and passed several layers of white nail polish
Remember, i add a 1k ohm resistor in series of 1 piece of 3 led and a diode 1N4148 for reverse polarity protection (the main cause is that the ribbon is designed for a voltage of 12v and the car is 13.8v or more, which can quickly destroy the LEDs))
With this resistor, there are no heating of strip and the light is enough . Is just for drive in the night and to much light is very tiring.
if you look I used the 2 bulb sockets for the bottom of the large instruments to power the led strips. There is no led in the sockets because useless
I can't take pictures of the end result, because it's the confinement and it's my neighbor's car.
I will surely make a video of the final result.
just a recommendation, pay close attention to plastic with the conductors that power the bulbs (specially on the side of the 3 connectors to the motherboard), on mine the metal strips peeled from the plastic. I glued them with loctite 480
So I have the clock unit out to repair it. That was successful. I bought some green LED bulbs from amazon to install. They're very bright so now I'm going to try methods to tone it down some. The new LED's are quite a bit different from the ones from the original post 14 years ago. Considering paint, nail polish, tape.
Last edited by PBoudr; 02-08-2024 at 05:14 PM.
Reason: spelling