What to pay for a 60k miler!
#1
What to pay for a 60k miler!
She's a 1997 X300 sovereign 4.0 with just 60.000 miles on the clock. She comes with a jaguar stamped book to 45k and independently serviced since. Very original including shocks, I am afraid, and radio/Cd charger. Everything works and both inside and outside are top notch.
What is she worth? Is there a big premium compare to say a 100k miler in similar state?
What is she worth? Is there a big premium compare to say a 100k miler in similar state?
#2
I don't know the market in Spain, but 60k versus 100k miles is pretty substantial. Depending on your driving habits, that is on average 4 years of driving (12-15k miles/km a year) before hitting 100k.
So I would pay a premium if that mattered to me. I'm just not sure how much of a premium....
So I would pay a premium if that mattered to me. I'm just not sure how much of a premium....
#3
#4
mercs and bimmers dominate the Spanish luxury car market.
XJ Jaguars are pretty scarce over here so prices are much higher than in the Uk -50 to 100%- and some 30 to 50% higher than in the US. Of course spanish cars tend to be in better shape than uk ones and salty states rust wise!!!
So what percentage over the going rate (whatever that is in your area) for a good 100k um would you pay for a 60k?
XJ Jaguars are pretty scarce over here so prices are much higher than in the Uk -50 to 100%- and some 30 to 50% higher than in the US. Of course spanish cars tend to be in better shape than uk ones and salty states rust wise!!!
So what percentage over the going rate (whatever that is in your area) for a good 100k um would you pay for a 60k?
#5
I take a different stance on this subject. With a car approaching 20 years old, condition is everything.
A car with 100K on it may well have had key wear items replaced, shocks, brakes, bushes etc whereas a 60K may still be on everything original and needing replacements.
Where the difference may be key is in things like wear on the drivers seat, carpets, paintwork.
So judge for yourself on the condition of the car and what it would cost to get it how you want it. I would not pay a premium for a low mile car just because it was low miles. Especially true for the X300 which is easily capable of 200K+ if looked after.
A car with 100K on it may well have had key wear items replaced, shocks, brakes, bushes etc whereas a 60K may still be on everything original and needing replacements.
Where the difference may be key is in things like wear on the drivers seat, carpets, paintwork.
So judge for yourself on the condition of the car and what it would cost to get it how you want it. I would not pay a premium for a low mile car just because it was low miles. Especially true for the X300 which is easily capable of 200K+ if looked after.
#6
I take a different stance on this subject. With a car approaching 20 years old, condition is everything.
A car with 100K on it may well have had key wear items replaced, shocks, brakes, bushes etc whereas a 60K may still be on everything original and needing replacements.
Where the difference may be key is in things like wear on the drivers seat, carpets, paintwork.
So judge for yourself on the condition of the car and what it would cost to get it how you want it. I would not pay a premium for a low mile car just because it was low miles. Especially true for the X300 which is easily capable of 200K+ if looked after.
A car with 100K on it may well have had key wear items replaced, shocks, brakes, bushes etc whereas a 60K may still be on everything original and needing replacements.
Where the difference may be key is in things like wear on the drivers seat, carpets, paintwork.
So judge for yourself on the condition of the car and what it would cost to get it how you want it. I would not pay a premium for a low mile car just because it was low miles. Especially true for the X300 which is easily capable of 200K+ if looked after.
#7
In my experience with two X-300s, the body parts, paint and interior parts were the end of life, not anything mechanical. So, even though it is hard to judge, I say the relative condition of the cosmetic items is the difference.
Many parts, like seals, plastic parts subject to heat or UV, rubber hoses, electronics and so on are as much affected by age as by usage.
The cars are good for 200,000 miles plus (280,000 in my case). So, using my postulate and assigning a value of 1/2 to the mileage, and 1/2 to the general age (purely my guess!), then the value math would be done by estimating one car has 70% of it's mileage left and the other has 50% left. So, the value for the lower mileage car should be between 20 and 25% more, with a whole slew of other factors like- which seller is more likely to be honest, time value of money, which color you like, and on and on NOT accounted for. Heck, the wear on the tires for these cars can be a significant factor in our market in the US!
Many parts, like seals, plastic parts subject to heat or UV, rubber hoses, electronics and so on are as much affected by age as by usage.
The cars are good for 200,000 miles plus (280,000 in my case). So, using my postulate and assigning a value of 1/2 to the mileage, and 1/2 to the general age (purely my guess!), then the value math would be done by estimating one car has 70% of it's mileage left and the other has 50% left. So, the value for the lower mileage car should be between 20 and 25% more, with a whole slew of other factors like- which seller is more likely to be honest, time value of money, which color you like, and on and on NOT accounted for. Heck, the wear on the tires for these cars can be a significant factor in our market in the US!
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#8
#9
Clasico- Actually just an attempt to put what appears to be a scientific approach to a wild *** guess!
And, doing the ratios the "adder" way would make the comparison 4.5k euro vs. 5.4k to 5650. euro.
Also, I might be more inclined to go with the lower mileage car if I was not going to do the maintenance myself. Jag fixers and Jag replacement part are more money that the average car.
You said the two cars were essentially the same cosmetically. I would suggest you look critially at the following to make sure that is true:
1) The headliners begin to sag near the rear window due to deterioration of the foam backing. This is a $500. repair or $500. worth of PITA DIY.
2) Look at the edges of the drivers seat where you slide in and out for cracking.
3) Check the cup holder for correct and "click" free operation.
4) Check operation of the sunroof (if equipped), and look for water stains on the edges
5) Look at the carpets near where the driver's heel sits
6) Check pitting and discoloration of the headlight lenses
7) Look at the clear coat on the wheels for signs of deterioration
8) Look at the valve cover for corrosion
9) Look underneath for relative amounts of corrosion, especially below the door sills, and if you can, near the front and rear subframe mounts.
10) Look for fluid leaks, especially near the differential seals and the power steering rack and pump.
11) Make sure there is no CEL and that the car transitions to idle perfectly. Idle issues can be a PITA on these cars.
12) Two keys plus a valet key and two fobs are worth several hundred dollars
13) Make sure the inside door handles operate freely and without a "catching" feeling. The cables get frayed and break.
I am sure others will add more "hidden" possible defects.
If these things are different, then that would factor in to the 50% of the price I claimed was age related!
All in all, MY X-300 was the most reliable, least costly of my Jaguar experience. It was a good solid everyday driver and was a pleasure to drive. I speak in the past tense because general wear on the interior and a hail storm made the car too ugly for me to want to drive or maintain it anymore.
And, doing the ratios the "adder" way would make the comparison 4.5k euro vs. 5.4k to 5650. euro.
Also, I might be more inclined to go with the lower mileage car if I was not going to do the maintenance myself. Jag fixers and Jag replacement part are more money that the average car.
You said the two cars were essentially the same cosmetically. I would suggest you look critially at the following to make sure that is true:
1) The headliners begin to sag near the rear window due to deterioration of the foam backing. This is a $500. repair or $500. worth of PITA DIY.
2) Look at the edges of the drivers seat where you slide in and out for cracking.
3) Check the cup holder for correct and "click" free operation.
4) Check operation of the sunroof (if equipped), and look for water stains on the edges
5) Look at the carpets near where the driver's heel sits
6) Check pitting and discoloration of the headlight lenses
7) Look at the clear coat on the wheels for signs of deterioration
8) Look at the valve cover for corrosion
9) Look underneath for relative amounts of corrosion, especially below the door sills, and if you can, near the front and rear subframe mounts.
10) Look for fluid leaks, especially near the differential seals and the power steering rack and pump.
11) Make sure there is no CEL and that the car transitions to idle perfectly. Idle issues can be a PITA on these cars.
12) Two keys plus a valet key and two fobs are worth several hundred dollars
13) Make sure the inside door handles operate freely and without a "catching" feeling. The cables get frayed and break.
I am sure others will add more "hidden" possible defects.
If these things are different, then that would factor in to the 50% of the price I claimed was age related!
All in all, MY X-300 was the most reliable, least costly of my Jaguar experience. It was a good solid everyday driver and was a pleasure to drive. I speak in the past tense because general wear on the interior and a hail storm made the car too ugly for me to want to drive or maintain it anymore.
Last edited by sparkenzap; 03-20-2015 at 06:44 PM. Reason: Added additionl suggestions:
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Kleman (03-24-2015)
#10
#11
Hello, i am from portugal and markets are quite similar even though more expensive here.
The xj40 x300 and x308 are models that have a very subjective value in our markets, the seem to have a price advertising difference that has no sense, ranging for exemple from 3000€ for a 3.2 x300 until 8000€ for the same car with little difference in consdition or mileage. Besides that it is a car that has very little specimens for sale when compared to a bmw or merc so the average price is not as easy to reach. Our cars have little or none rust , the problems are usually cosmetical and due to usage and sun exposition for long periods.
I would say that a x300 3.2 or 4.0 with 170.000/200.000kms and in overall good consdition is worth about 4000-5000 in spain, but with half of that mileage and if you can prove it ia true and all the maintenance is done then i would expect to pay around 6000€-7000€ for one
Here in portugal prices start at around 5000 until 10.000€ Because the difficultys to register imported cars (taxes for imported cars here reach double or more of the car value) however it is a hard to sell car here in portugal as it pays very high driving taxes and parts are almost non existing.
The xj40 x300 and x308 are models that have a very subjective value in our markets, the seem to have a price advertising difference that has no sense, ranging for exemple from 3000€ for a 3.2 x300 until 8000€ for the same car with little difference in consdition or mileage. Besides that it is a car that has very little specimens for sale when compared to a bmw or merc so the average price is not as easy to reach. Our cars have little or none rust , the problems are usually cosmetical and due to usage and sun exposition for long periods.
I would say that a x300 3.2 or 4.0 with 170.000/200.000kms and in overall good consdition is worth about 4000-5000 in spain, but with half of that mileage and if you can prove it ia true and all the maintenance is done then i would expect to pay around 6000€-7000€ for one
Here in portugal prices start at around 5000 until 10.000€ Because the difficultys to register imported cars (taxes for imported cars here reach double or more of the car value) however it is a hard to sell car here in portugal as it pays very high driving taxes and parts are almost non existing.
The following 2 users liked this post by Paulofvfreitas:
Kleman (03-24-2015),
sparkenzap (03-22-2015)
#12
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Paulofvfreitas (01-17-2019)
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