What is this switch and how to remove it
#21
So the BPM is providing a feeler voltage on the brake and not in park switch
It is ground seeking
When the switches close or active the ground path is satisfied
Taking a break to edit this statement if true,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, So the not in park switch is a NC or normal closed switch , An Active position is when the lever is actuated, and the switch opens
It is ground seeking
When the switches close or active the ground path is satisfied
Taking a break to edit this statement if true,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, So the not in park switch is a NC or normal closed switch , An Active position is when the lever is actuated, and the switch opens
Last edited by Parker 7; 09-24-2022 at 03:39 PM.
#24
The clicking is the keylock relay ( frd of the shift lever ) and key lock solenoid
The hard reset is taking both battery cables off and touching them together , this works for a US model that does not have stereo head theft protection
The longer the cables are contacted the better like over night
Battery cables work as long as you cover the battery post from a adverse cable connection
This will reset the BPM and security lock control module to zero state as it is directly wired to the battery or in this case you are draining it to a electron well ( car frame )
The hard reset is taking both battery cables off and touching them together , this works for a US model that does not have stereo head theft protection
The longer the cables are contacted the better like over night
Battery cables work as long as you cover the battery post from a adverse cable connection
This will reset the BPM and security lock control module to zero state as it is directly wired to the battery or in this case you are draining it to a electron well ( car frame )
Last edited by Parker 7; 09-24-2022 at 04:26 PM.
#25
#31
Referencing the above chart with the switch inactive or normal / extended / relaxed the Body Processor Module pin feeding the switch as a feeler voltage is B + and is not grounded out
So the switch should be a normal open
When the shift lever is in the park gate and lever depressed it will close and the feeler voltage feeding it will be grounded and close to 0
So the switch should be a normal open
When the shift lever is in the park gate and lever depressed it will close and the feeler voltage feeding it will be grounded and close to 0
Last edited by Parker 7; 09-25-2022 at 09:36 PM.
#32
so recap on whats been done
wouldn't start & had coolant leak
key in run & start pos, had 6v & 12v respectively at the starter.
Changed starter fired right up, tested 5 or 6 times
Filled Radiator , started up let get warm the water gushed out of hose at firewall, ( water did pour over starter)
Fixed heater hose
won't start
Found no power at starter so discovered no power at #1 lug of starter relay, constant power at #3, jumped between #3 & #5 with key in run pos fired up so I replaced ignition switch now have power at #1 lug but still no crank,
Found leaf lever broken on in park switch
Replaced switch, can hear something under dash when activating switch
Jumpered wires at neutral switch, no start
Hard reset no help
Maybe next step should be find out what all the water leaked over ??
wouldn't start & had coolant leak
key in run & start pos, had 6v & 12v respectively at the starter.
Changed starter fired right up, tested 5 or 6 times
Filled Radiator , started up let get warm the water gushed out of hose at firewall, ( water did pour over starter)
Fixed heater hose
won't start
Found no power at starter so discovered no power at #1 lug of starter relay, constant power at #3, jumped between #3 & #5 with key in run pos fired up so I replaced ignition switch now have power at #1 lug but still no crank,
Found leaf lever broken on in park switch
Replaced switch, can hear something under dash when activating switch
Jumpered wires at neutral switch, no start
Hard reset no help
Maybe next step should be find out what all the water leaked over ??
The following users liked this post:
Parker 7 (09-26-2022)
#33
Editing
Remove the large terminal post on the right aft wheel well on the engine side near the rear firewall , this is your battery connection
This is the top line in the pic as after the engine starts the alternator feeds through as a tie point on the starter solenoid to the battery and the rest of the power distribution connections terminal posts
I'm sure you have the tie point nut tight on the solenoid but you never know if you were blindly on the lower 13 mm nut on the pigtail
There are 2 of the same large terminal post on the firewall itself gut were not looking at that ( yet )
Wiggle the terminal post on the wheel well after lifting the heavy cable off ( you have to lift the cable to get an accurate feel to discern if the post is loose making a bad connection on the other side of the sheet metal )
This will cover your 6 and 12 volt observations
You should have power present on the starter solenoid relay at socket 2 and 3 with the ignition switch in the run position before the start position
Power at the 2 socket only accurse if the ignition positive relay ( right engine bay fuse box relay ( is closed and can be swapped with the left engine bay fuse box relay ( actually only runs the horn )
Remove the large terminal post on the right aft wheel well on the engine side near the rear firewall , this is your battery connection
This is the top line in the pic as after the engine starts the alternator feeds through as a tie point on the starter solenoid to the battery and the rest of the power distribution connections terminal posts
I'm sure you have the tie point nut tight on the solenoid but you never know if you were blindly on the lower 13 mm nut on the pigtail
There are 2 of the same large terminal post on the firewall itself gut were not looking at that ( yet )
Wiggle the terminal post on the wheel well after lifting the heavy cable off ( you have to lift the cable to get an accurate feel to discern if the post is loose making a bad connection on the other side of the sheet metal )
This will cover your 6 and 12 volt observations
You should have power present on the starter solenoid relay at socket 2 and 3 with the ignition switch in the run position before the start position
Power at the 2 socket only accurse if the ignition positive relay ( right engine bay fuse box relay ( is closed and can be swapped with the left engine bay fuse box relay ( actually only runs the horn )
Last edited by Parker 7; 09-26-2022 at 03:23 PM.
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Jim Kristeff (10-03-2022)
#34
#38
#39
The rotary position switch can be opened up and cleaned by solvent and after dry an eraser ( just enough abrasion )
To remove the connector is quite involved so forget that , you would have to do the cleaning with the switch hanging
They have delicate contact fingers inside that can be resprung to make better contact
There is a o - ring around the seal that may have expanded and hard to get back in the groove
You can cut a bit out in the bottom portion leaving the joining gap at the bottom and some Vaseline to glue it in place
To remove the connector is quite involved so forget that , you would have to do the cleaning with the switch hanging
They have delicate contact fingers inside that can be resprung to make better contact
There is a o - ring around the seal that may have expanded and hard to get back in the groove
You can cut a bit out in the bottom portion leaving the joining gap at the bottom and some Vaseline to glue it in place
Last edited by Parker 7; 10-05-2022 at 11:55 AM.
The following users liked this post:
piper 888 (11-13-2022)