Ok ,Made a test lamp, Starter relay connected one end to circuit 1 other to ground turn key to run got light, jumper 1 & 2 no light with key on

 

Editing

In the starter solinoid socket alone from position 1 to 2 you should get a " bright " light with the key only in the far spring loaded start position

The brightness of the test light is important in that it proves proper current even though you can see proper voltage with a common meter on a device like your relay

A bright light proves you have a good BPM providing a good enough ground and proves the rotary position switch is conduction well enough the path to the BPM

To compare the brightness as a " good standard " you can place the clip on the left or right relay box large terminal post , this will be a good positive battery connection

for a ground point other then the relay socket , do not use the valve cover as it is electrically isolated from ground

There are a couple of dedicated ground studs like the small ones below the larger ones on the rear firewall , the larger ones are actually battery positive as the cable goes fwd to the fuse boxes

Ask questions ?

1 and 2 is the control half of the relay

3 and 5 is the mussle power passing through the relay to the solenoid which is in fact a heavy high current relay to pass through the very high current battery cable mussle power to the starter motor

So you have in effect a 2 stage relay circuit to be able to handle this very high current battery cable connection on the starter motor

 

Nothing, No voltage

 

No voltage at which socket ?

You should see voltage at starter solenoid relay socket 2 and 3

2 and 3 are dependent on 2 factors which follows ........................

Socket 3 is hot at all times through fuse # 3 / 25 amp , left engine bay fuse box

Socket 2 fuse # 12 / 10 amp right engine bay fuse box , this requires the ignition positive relay in the corner of the fuse box to close

You were able to get starter rotation by jumpering across the contact bars in the rotary position switch which proves you have no blown fuses

This ignition positive relay is dependent on 2 factors

A ground command to close by the ignition switch from pin 3 and 5 of the ignition switch connector , this is very dependent on pin 5 which is a car frame ground which can get disturbed

The path the relay socket 2 passes through the inertia / crash switch which can trip open and be reset or jumpered between the 2 white wires on the inertia switch connector with a paper clip

This inertia switch can be fickle and not always be able to manually reset and trips open without you being aware that it should

I found corrosion on pin 5 in the ignition switch connector which can get fluid intrusion

and the relay itself

I think you have swapped this relay with the left engine bay fuse box

You may have a intermittent factor which confuses the information you obtain which is not the most confidence building as we nail this down

So we have 2 relays of concern with different sockets 1 , 2 , 3 , 5 which gets confusing to keep straight in the head so will be taking a bit of a mental break and come back to it

 

I jumped tester between sockets 1 & 2

 

Between 1 and 2 at the starter solenoid relay will only get the test light with the ignition switch to the full start position as a properly operating system

You must see voltage at socket 2 , this is once the key is in the run position before the start position

The BPM will be providing a ground at socket 1 of the starter solenoid relay at the moment of key full start position rotation , this ground resistance should be close to O and if not will tell you something

The test light should be bright and not dim between 1 and 2 , it is this bright vs, dim that can tell you something hence the need to compare the test light with a known good standard observation like a heavy positive battery cable and dedicated ground

 

Yes I do get voltage at 2 with key to start pos

 

Editing some info into post # 66

 

What is the SLCM?

 

Security lock control module puts a freeze on starting the car

 

Resetting the SLCM after it is tripped is by a owners key in the ignition switch which you have done

The signal from the SLCM to the BPM is digital code so it can't be tricked

This signal passes through the BT4 connector above the fuel tank

Although the Black / Orange wire passing through BT4 does not show on the schematic it must somehow get from the trunk to the glove compartment

 

Reading last line again, Your saying with shift lever in park the switch should be open?? And out of park it should be closed??, Also will the TPM prevent eng crank and give the 2 lights?

Also I found the BPM, How in the world does it come out of there?

 

Just woke from a nap , so you found the BPM

The BPM is the control center of the starter circuit , it must get all the agreements on the schematics prints left side before it will provide a command ground to close the starter solenoid relay

The BPM has the ribbon connectors on the back side , look for corrosion from the leaking climate control air ducts , I think if remembering correctly it slides down from the carrier after removing some screws

TPM ?

My BPM is exposed so let me put a meter on the Blue / Slate wire to the not in park switch ( on the left side of the below print ) to see how it behaves

You should be able to take the FC1 - 33 at the BPM Red / Orange wire ( on the right side of the print ) to car frame ground and the starter should engage and rotate but may not run the engine , this will prove the rotary position switch

It's dark now and the dark scares me

There is some confusion on how the not in park switch is integrated into the starter circuit let alone the lights

EDITING

 

"I think if remembering correctly it slides down from the carrier after removing some screws"

I was upside down on my back with my feet over the passenger seat, I saw no screw ,nut or bolt holding it in the bracket or what was securing the bracket, I thought maybe clamp pressure was holding it but I pulled as hard as I could & nothing, Maybe I have to remove the glovebox to get to a nut, I spent my last 42 yrs wrenching on commercial aircraft so I have a general idea how things come apart I just wasn't on the avionics side of it.

 

I was a Jet Doctor for American Airlines

Cracked a rib putting in a mach trim actuator in a MD - 80 DDT

 

Looks like the plastic button has to pop off , the one I have is very stuck but I know I had it out before

 

This would keep you from removing the glove box

I left my BPM in place and removed the black connector next to it under the red arrow

It has a locking lever to swing out

Now which one is the Blue / Slate wireis being determined , pin 16 at this connector also

The connector map looks like this , the connector mounts upright just in the pic below





T

 

Not valid meter reading , I know my not in park switch works as a functioning system

Have to get my eyes to see the wire color

 

United here,Out of SFO,,Threw my back out doing 747 elevator servo

 

There is a different wire color in the presumed 16 position , regrouping after a wake up shower

Worked a wing electrical issue on flight 800 with TWA 2 weeks before being shot down by a witnessed by many a missile

The wing wiring was a wreck though ( and the issue I repaired ) and Boeing bought our 747s all back real fast and got us delivery slots on replacement aircraft