It is clicking, And now if I move the shift lever off the switch it starts, I've verified I have power to one side of the switch with button pressed with button released no power to switch

Button Pressed

Button released

 

Thinking

 

Ok, Whatever is causing this has to do with the shifter gate assy, Ive check it 4 times, when I secure it the car won't start in park, when I move the shifter I can hear and feel the key lock solenoid, when I remove the gate assy the car starts, I checked and its not pinching the wire

 

could it be rotary switch adjustment?

 

Your meter reading on the not in park switch is correct along with key lock solenoid clicking

The BPM is putting out a feeler voltage and once the switch closes the feeler voltage goes to 0 ( grounded out )

The rotary position switch can be out of adjustment or intermittent not closing even with proper adjustment, but you gave it a cleaning which is all you can do other than installing it back in the original slotted screw holes

 

I carefully removed the gate assy without disturbing the shifter, wouldn't start, moved shifter fwd about 1/8in starts

 

I see what you're saying but don't see a correlation other than the wires moving and it moving changing the nature of the not in park wires

in splicing the wires, you may have a connection just barely making connection

 

Adjusted rotary switch, It's starting over and over again, moved shifter around then back into park and it still starts, gonna take it off the jack stands and do a quick drive

 

At some point in battery voltage the starter will rotate but the engine will not light off

So in the heat of battle, you have to keep aware of the battery charge state

 

Took it for a drive , so far so good and it restarts

 

Well it's been upgraded from this

This,,

 

Cleaned the ABS speed sensors no help, The guy I bought it from says he was told it needs the antilock module.

 

If its the switch I don't think I need it now plus I bought a extra,,

Oh and thanks for all the help really appreciate it, As a knuckle dragger wiring schematics are not my strong suit

 

I'm pulling a couple of them anyway

As long as you move the shift lever out of the park detent and feel or hear the key lock solenoid click you have a change of state of the not in park switch without pulling things apart

This also confirms the current switch has the correct red button depression dimension to make and you have the correct NO or NC type connection with your wiring since it is swapable

It didn't get all the way up to freezing temperature today

 

Hi sturner,

I think you inadvertently submitted two posts to the XJ40 forum so I have moved them here. If they belong in a different thread, please let me know.

Cheers,

Don

 

on the anti - skid something easy to try is the brake switch which is involved

The brake switch is actually 2 switches in 1 package , 1 switch dedicated to the brake lights and the other to like the cruise control disconnect, traction control, and such

The brake switch socket is # 20 and is looking for a ground as you press the pedal

There is a superseded part # in a TSB

You can spin the wheels by hand in the correct direction of car fwd travel and the 4 / 2 color pairs of wires will show 1 volt ac on a meter

The sensors will read about 1300 ohms resistance and the 4 should be the same

You did clean the face of the sensors as fine metalic shavings can accumulate , this is different than the connector cleaning

 

Well I washed the car and was getting ready to take and get it smoked check, Fans don't work again, I have power at inertia switch jumpered no fans, have power at the freon switch & jumpered wires at radiator switch fans turn.swapped fan leads no turn pulled all fuses again

 

Is there a way to test fan control relay module? I have power across the TSB Mod, I have both fan modes when I jumper the radiator Thermostatic switch, I have power to the inertia switch but no fan when i jumper white wires,, I cannot find the ground your taking bout behind the left headlight but I cleaned both grounds on the firewall, Did my brand new relay module already take a dump? Plus the fans never turned on when it got hot and I feel no click in the relay when wife turns key to run.

 

The ground stud is under the engine air filter attached to the chassis frame rail that goes aft , there is one on the right side in same area , it will have about 4 small wires on it

White fan control relay module # LNA6702AA superceeed by LNA6702AB ? , the black one is a little bit different for the V8 powered X308

It is unlikely you will get high fan mode in the driveway with the system operating all hooked up and normal operating temp

With your 2 wire freon switch Jumper'd as the TSB you should have low fan mode regardless of the coolant temp

Editing

A direct test of the fan control relay module is to remove the 2 wire freon pressure switch jumper , this will be a no fan state of the original design

On the 3 wire radiator temp switch jumper one white wire to the black ground wire and you will get low fan mode

Remove the jumper and install on the other white wire to the same black ground wire and you will get high fan mode

these 2 last lines will confirm your ground stud is good

With the mod jumper on the 2 wire freon pressure switch you will have low fan mode with key in the run position and cold coolant temp

On the above pic :

Point 73 squire and 74 square share the same # 11 / 30 amp left engine bay fuse box fuse which is hot at all times directly wired to the battery cable

Point 76 square ..................# 17 / 30 amp left engine bay fuse box fuse that is hot at all times directly wired to the battery cable

The fan control relay module has it's own ground stud located .........LSG10L which is the same ground stud under the engine air filter

 

Did 3 wire test fans operated like they should, I found the TSB lead on the relay plug, 6v key in off pos 0v in run pos, Feel no clicking when moving key off and on, Did not get any fan mode while idling in driveway