Where is the engine ecu on x300
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The following 2 users liked this post by b1mcp:
Don B (05-29-2014),
MountainMan (05-30-2014)
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If you haven't already, get yourself a Bluetooth OBDCII code reader for next to nothing on EvilBay (under $10USD, shipped from the far East), and download the Torque(Free) app for your mobile phone.
I have a CEL for a bad oxygen sensor, and when the light pops, I check the code and clear it at a red light with my mobile phone. I'll get to the O2 sensor some day... soon, I hope.
I have a CEL for a bad oxygen sensor, and when the light pops, I check the code and clear it at a red light with my mobile phone. I'll get to the O2 sensor some day... soon, I hope.
#10
Dave
It could be a faulty ECU but from looking at your previous threads I don't think you've done enough diagnostics to put it high on the list yet.
In this thread
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-codes-118061/
AllanG and Sparkenzap made some good suggestions. Specifically I think you need to focus on the CKPS that you have replaced - it could be a faulty part or it could be wiring issue to the sensor. Check the resistance of the CKPS at the ECU as Spakenzap suggested and tell us what you see.
I have a spare ECU for a 96 3.2 in the garage that I will lend to you if you cover postage both ways but I would try and do more with your multimeter first.
(On the issue of having a Check Engine Light - do you mean when you turn the ignition on? That is what you are supposed to have. The car will not crank unless the check engine light is present)
It could be a faulty ECU but from looking at your previous threads I don't think you've done enough diagnostics to put it high on the list yet.
In this thread
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-codes-118061/
AllanG and Sparkenzap made some good suggestions. Specifically I think you need to focus on the CKPS that you have replaced - it could be a faulty part or it could be wiring issue to the sensor. Check the resistance of the CKPS at the ECU as Spakenzap suggested and tell us what you see.
I have a spare ECU for a 96 3.2 in the garage that I will lend to you if you cover postage both ways but I would try and do more with your multimeter first.
(On the issue of having a Check Engine Light - do you mean when you turn the ignition on? That is what you are supposed to have. The car will not crank unless the check engine light is present)
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OK, attached are 2 diagrams that you will need. They look intimidating but are quite straight forward if you approach this logically and take your time.
On the ECU wiring, you will see the Crank Position Sensor at the top of the page. There are 2 wires W-White and O-Orange. If you follow these to where they go on the ECU you will see they connect at pins 23 and 26.
On the ECU Pins diagram, use the picture for AJ16 NA ROW (Normally Aspirated, Rest of World) for PI104 connector. Find Pins 23 and 26. These are the locations you need to check.
Unplug the connector from the ECU and use your multimeter on Resistance setting. Connect the meter probes between the 2 pins to measure the resistance. Sparkenzap suggested 200 ohms as the correct value and I have no reason to doubt him.
Perform the same measurement at the Crank sensor itself and you should see identical values (more or less). A significant difference would indicate a wiring fault between the sensor and the ECU.
The orange wire is the Ground for the sensor. So check also between the orange wire at the ECU and at the Crank Sensor itself (measure resitance between the pin and a known good ground like the engine block or bare chassis).
On the ECU wiring, you will see the Crank Position Sensor at the top of the page. There are 2 wires W-White and O-Orange. If you follow these to where they go on the ECU you will see they connect at pins 23 and 26.
On the ECU Pins diagram, use the picture for AJ16 NA ROW (Normally Aspirated, Rest of World) for PI104 connector. Find Pins 23 and 26. These are the locations you need to check.
Unplug the connector from the ECU and use your multimeter on Resistance setting. Connect the meter probes between the 2 pins to measure the resistance. Sparkenzap suggested 200 ohms as the correct value and I have no reason to doubt him.
Perform the same measurement at the Crank sensor itself and you should see identical values (more or less). A significant difference would indicate a wiring fault between the sensor and the ECU.
The orange wire is the Ground for the sensor. So check also between the orange wire at the ECU and at the Crank Sensor itself (measure resitance between the pin and a known good ground like the engine block or bare chassis).
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