Although I put a trickle charge on my battery since I don't drive it that much, it seems that if I forget to do so for a couple of weeks, I have the jump the car. The battery is only a year old, so I know it is not that. I figured I could use a clamp-on voltmeter on each fuse panel to see where it is coming from, but it may not tell me everything. I am sure that it is a loose ground somewhere. Just not sure of the process I need to go through to find the problem. Has anyone had to search for something like this?

 

A termed peracetic drain accurses when the cars security module does not go to sleep with a very very small drain

The final battery drain is around 30 ma

You tinked with your steering column recently ?

 

When you pull the key out pin 4 to pin 5 on the ignition switch makes or unmakes to start the security module sequence to eventually go to sleep

The steering column will raise and retract allowing you to exit the vehicle

the steering column must reach these positions so the steering column position sensors agree it is in the driver exit position

The problem in this case is the column never reach this position fully

This can be overridden by rotating the column position auto switch to off

The key barrel can be cleaned and lubed to allow this pin 4 to 5 to freely actuate

It's a dripping mess

The ignition switch is separate from the key barrel so no new key and is easy to replace with a X100 or X308 donor car

The ignition switch set screws are a standard slot and is a thick slot so if your have a not so wide a slotted screw driver it may fool you

I have some of these extra set screws

 

I turned of auto on my steering column to save on the rod that always strips. So if that is set that way would that be a problem? Yes I have messed with the column in the last 6 months. I actually replaced ethe actual steering wheel.

 

I'm assuming you have cleaned and lubed the ignition barrel

But to know for sure if the linier key in / key out switch is actuating a meter on pin 4 to 5 but thats if you want to nail down that question

The pin 4 to 5 is way back on page 198 in the WD under security module in the upper left page corner

The steering column switch from auto to off should remove this subsection of the security system from the equation

There have been reports on wires being pinched in the steering column

I'm assuming the door lock cycle but you may notice that only the driver door lock has an agreement switch to allow the security system to go to sleep

There have been issues with this driver door lock assembly binding and you can check the 2 pins CA18 - 12 ( orange / yellow wire ) and CA18 - 6 ( oramge / blue wire ) on the security module before digging out the door lock assembly

Broadening back out to the bigger picture of electrical distribution to all systems the relays in the corners of the fuse boxes can be quickly checked that they relax to the open position

With the key in the run postion you can remove the relays and feel for them to click back open

Someone recently found one to have failed stuck closed

As a swapping option you can use the left engine fuse box relay as in reality this only controls the car horn

A longer check would be to remove the positive battery post from each fuse box one day at a time and measure the battery after a overnight period or a amp meter on the battery

The fuse boxes have fuse sockets 1 - 9 that are hot at all times and positions 10 . 12 , 14 , 16 on the 10 - 18 bank are controlled by the fuse box relays

This arrangement is the same on all 5 fuse boxes

So by removing the fuse box positive post you don't miss as a isolation step all the power going through the fuse boxes

narrowing back down on the specific security module fuse in the trunk fuse box with fuse # 4 on with wire color brown / blue

This check of this fuse would focus your attention back to the security module if not going to sleep mode

An oddity faintly remembered from reading is the security sounder horn module behind the right headlights that has a independent battery inside that has its own charging circuit

This sealed with potting material can fail from water migrating into it or possibly the internal battery not being able to be charged base'd on the internal battery's service life

 

Well this is VERY informative. Looks like I have some work cut out for me. Thanks!

 

Edited above post with filled in numbers

The security system will have a high amp draw until a certain time and that all agreements are meet

The time is at least 20 minutes and not until that time has passed can you have a valid current test in the security system sleep mode

 

So here is what I am going to do and let me know if this will work to find the issue.
1. Turn the steering column off from moving.
2. Test the amp draw
3. Pull off one positive at a time to each fuse panel overnight.
4. Test the battery amperage and then do this same process for each fuse panel

. am also search for my fuel gauge going to zero and then coming back after a while of running. I will be checking every ground location in the care to make sure they are proper.

 

Yes , keep in mind the car will not go to sleep for the minimum draw of 20 milliamps until 20 minutes or so ( I can't remember ) on key removal

Yes on doing the steering column switch off test first before removing the fuse box terminal posts one at a time

The fuse box test comes back out of the security system test and is a different whole car electrical distribution look so no wait on that test ( s ) needed

 

As I already posted my first light I want to get out in the trunk light and Fuse 8 in the right kick panel does not turn off that light. Any ideas

 

I don't understand what you are referencing to

 

That is not the correct fuse. You want F2 in the luggage compartment for the light.

 

OK got a lot of things electrical accomplished. First this issue, the only thing that is taking amperage while the car is sitting there is the Body Processing Module. It looks like about .12 amps. Now the problem with that is that I have no clue if that is too much or not. The odd thing about this is that this is the BPM out of my donor car which was a Canadian Jag which gave me heated windshield and daytime running lights. Can someone check what amperage your BPM is pulling. Pull the negative cable off. Pull the Luggage compartment fuse in the back. Complete the circuit with an amp meter and see what the draw is. Pull F5 in the back fuse box and see what the draw is.

Issue with the fuel gage. If you read my other positing I had issues with the gauge showing correct. That was an easy fix. Turned out to be I had put my trickle charger ground to the same ground that the fuel gauge uses and BAM. now it works.

 

Your testing is not valid.

If the boot is open then the car knows that. Removing the fuse for the boot lamp is pointless (actually counter productive). The BPM and Security system still see the boot open. You need to frig the boot lock with a screwdriver to close the lock, then lock the car to get a fully shut down system. Then do test measurements.

 

OK will try again
Thanks for the recommendation..

 

Didi the test as you suggested and a lot less. It was about .03 Amps which really surprised me. So I think I then found the drain on the system. Turned out to be the diagnostic monitor that I kept in. I plugged that back in and it shot through the roof. Thanks guys for all the help. On to my next CAT challenge.