I got this 1996 in 1999 with 13k miles. I've had to wiggle the gear shift lever to get it to start about half the time and have been doing this since 1999 The mileage now is 96K. The car either turned over immediately or nothing would happen until you turned the power back off and tried again.
Earlier this year I had issues with starting - it would turn over 8 to 10 times or so then start and run great. I read what you guys had to say and decided it must be the cam shaft positioning sensor. There was a lot of confusion about correct part and the car started to start immediately and did so for months (it had done this before). So all put on back burner.
I live in an area with very little mechanical help. Of the closest 2 garages one crashed and burned and I can't find the guy who did work on my Jag. The other refuses to work on Jags after taking all day to realize my radiator fans are on 2 fuses.That was a bill that hurt us both.
I am currently pretty ill other-wise I'd do a lot more.
Cam positioning sensors are essentially around $300 and I'm trying to be very cautious before I spend that amount as it's a non-returnable part. Could this be the inertia switch?
Thx for any time and help. I just had surgery on both feet and really aren't in the mood for a tow, but need to get rx's and no taxi's. Wanted to try Uber but you need a smart phone. Still using my flip phone from 2003.
Anyway - thanks.

 

Just to clarify, your thread title says "wont start", but what you are describing is a situation where it starts, but only after a lot of cranking. Am I correct?
If so, then these symptoms are consistent with the cam position sensor, as you have already realised, but as ever, there are other potential causes so your caution on shelling out for a new one is justified.
As far as the inertia switch is concerned, it is designed to be all or nothing, either the car works normally, or it wont run if it has tripped. In does not reset itself, so it wouldnt feature as an intermittent fault unless you were regularly resetting it, which I take it you are not. I think you can safely discount it as the problem if the car is starting after a bit of cranking.

 

I'm not entirely clear what the problem is.

Are you asking about the 'no crank' issue related to wiggling the gearshift?

Or are you asking about a 'cranks but won't start' condition?

For the latter I'd first consider the crankshaft position sensor. One clue: next time the car refuses to start take a peek at the tachometer while cranking. If the needle doesn't jiggle a bit the crank position sensor is probably on the blink.

Neither the crank nor cam sensor would address a 'no crank' issue, though. That's likely your linear switch at the gearshift needing adjustment. When the 'no crank' problem presents itself does the "P" on the gear indicator glow red? It should.

Cheers
DD

 

Let's divide the the starting problem in half and trouble shoot them as 2 independent problems .

The first issue and the one most important is the starter rotation enable :

As Doug mentioned you need to see the red " P " light before the starter rotation is enabled . If you do see the red " P " in every attempt you can swap the #4 starter solenoid relay with the X relay as it may be intermittent . After you swap the relay feel for it to click every time you turn the key about 10 trys . The relays can be hard to remove so spray with some oil as this helps . Part # LNA6706AA available at most parts stores , see parts link below :

https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/u.../relays/relays

The second being engine light off performance :

Since the engine should light off by design with the Camshaft sensor connector removed , replacing the Camshaft sensor is a low priority item . Once the ECU does not see a Camshaft sensor signal the ECU reverts to the Crankshaft sensor and requires more starting rotations in doing so . The ECU only uses the Crankshaft sensor anyway after the starting sequence and if your engine runs fine after that sequence we can look away from those 2 sensors . Camshaft sensor check engine light code is P0340 and can be read for free at the local parts store so you will know if it faults .

Once you drain the battery below 11.4 volts the ECU will not function and will not start the engine but will still enable the starter to rotate fine

Inertia switch can be jumpered with a paperclip between the 2 white wires to take that out of the equation of if it's good or bad ..






Editing.

 

Have you checked the fuel pump relay? Mine was sticky and sometimes worked sometimes didn't. Once running it was fine but intermittently it would be very difficult to get started... no fuel no nothing... then suddenly after 8 or 10 tries turning key on and off it would work. replaced the offending relay and wa-la... no more starting issues.
Steve

 

You have 2 fuel pumps on the supercharged model and if the car will not start on the # 1 fuel pump it will turn on the # 2 after a certain unknown to me time . You can swap the relays as a simple first try . by placing your finger and the 2 fuel pump relays you can feel this switch over . Otherwise the # 2 does not come on until 4000 RPM .