where's all your previous posted pictures?

 

Oopsies! I made some sub-folders on photobucket under my "VDP Mechanicals" about 6 mo. ago or so...and on occasion when I'm in there, I'll move some into the appropriate sub-folder - found these under "Brakes" (wonder how many other previous posts I've screwed up?)
I'll see if I can correct the links..

 

Somewhere here on the Forum this was posted, but here it is again:

https://www.myotherdrive.com/dyn/fil...ABS+Repair.pdf

I made this a few years back, spells out the repair pretty well.


Good luck!

 

Thanks Steve, I recall reviewing that one when mending mine. I'd suggest if one has the patience for it, repeatedly scoring the groove with a utility knife until one gets through results in significantly less clean-up and perhaps reduced chance of getting into the board and damaging something. Of course, one needs a vise or suitable clamping arrangement to do it safely and successfully.

 

I got an anti-lock light on the way to work, middle of last week. Normally, I subscribe to the "read the codes" theory and mend the offending part rather than throw part substitutions at a problem. However, in this case, last Saturday morning having decided to remove the bonnet for liner mending on a whim, I recognized I could pull the ABS module, crack it open and solder the motor pins while I was waiting for the liner adhesive to cure, rather than bug Motorcarman for a Saturday WDS hookup.

So I dived in. First observation, as you may expect, the module is SOoooo much easier to open the second time! Sliced thru the permatex all around the perimeter with a utility knife and prised the cover off from the bits of permatex still holding the fixing-screw holes.

For those who haven't had the pleasure, a 13 mm hex for loosening 2 nuts below the pump motor in the front, and one in the back, next to the firewall. If second time, like mine..the pump/module will spring up and forward 6" or so from where you bent the brake lines the previous time. This time, you just have to tweak it a little farther forward and inboard to access the two torx on the bottom of the module fixing it to the pump.
You will need to disconnect the 2-wire pump motor electrical connector. I wait until the module is free of the pump to disconnect the multi-wire connector from the module using a 10mm socket.

Reverse all steps for installation.

I saw what appeared to be a crack or at least some space all around one post. I soldered both, for good measure.

Taped it up for a test and it checked good, no Anti-lock light within the first few hundred yards so I reckon it would've returned a C1095 if I had taken it to Bob for a reading.





The three fixing nuts will slide off:


Here the module fasteners are out and it is up/forward/inboard about as much as you need to access them. I didn't seat the module fully to the pump so you can see the interface to the pins:


I prefer to wrestle this mondo-connector on/off with the module freed from the pump:


I clamped it up overnight after re-sealing all around:



Here's a fair shot of where you have to get the pump to if you are using the "bend the brake-lines" method rather than disconnecting them and then doing an arduous bleed:

 

I just did this fix this past weekend! I didn't bend the brake lines like aholbro1 did, but I kind of wish I had. I just flexed the ABS module enough that I could fit a hand and tiny rachet under, like in these instructions:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...removal-85123/

Getting those Torx bolts out, and then back in again, was extremely difficult, but my ABS light is gone!

 

Hi
Thank you for the detailed and very timely post!
Our car has both ABS and Traction fail lights on
The diagnosis showed a 1095 fault apparently together with another code (which the guy cant remember) on my 1996 XJR 300. He referred to the activator, very confusing. His bottom line was that the ABS motor needed reconditioning. I searched and couldn't find anybody that repaired motors. I look forward to your thoughts.
thanks Charlie

 

Thanks for digging up my post from 6 years ago. I forgot I posted this.
I have never replaced a motor assy. I suspect that one could fail but the modules are nearly always the culprit.

The other fault is likely the position sensor for the Trac Control.

Sort the bad solder joints out first.

bob

 

I am happy to say thanks to Motorcarman with your detailed how to fix thread my light is no longer lit. Thank you For Your Post.

Snookfever

 

Following your advice I attended to the module. There are no obvious faults and there is continuity from the board to the ABS motor. You note that the position sensor for the Traction Control may be an issue. Pray tell, where is that located and what sort of a test should I perform on it?
Many thanks

 

You need to read the DTCs to determine what fault you have or you will just be guessing.

You can throw parts at the car but that gets expensive REAL FAST.

There are 2 position sensors. One is the throttle position sensor on throttle body and the other is the TC actuator sensor on the TC unit.

There are many reasons to have ABS faults.

Here is the DTC guide.

bob