Well the horn works so there's that!
Hmmmm

 

So now you have proven the master power distribution control is " intact " to all points on the car

This proves the pins 2 and 3 , and 5 of the ignition switch connector including the switch is intact

 

See section 15.4 for the key barrel coil / exciter / transponder ring

This will be a 97 model and should be the same

jagxj1997.pdf (jagrepair.com)

This is a mess of a day on this end

 

Point 99 square is fuse # 4 trunk fuse box

 

Decoder module with connector CC13 on page X

jagxj1996.pdf (jagrepair.com)

 

Decoder module is the linier switch box to the right side of the shift lever on the center console

Someone's pic with the installed pic a USA model

Not fun to remove but the electrical contacts inside can be cleaned , not knowing if it relates to your Immobilier issue but apparently it is direct wired to the key exciter on the key barrel.

Pictures don't match

 

Brenden ,

Is the decoder module with connector CC13 in your pic and directly wired to key barrel coil / exciter in section 15.4 of the wiring guide, is it actually located next to the shift column as it is hard to believe with the information I gathered

I'm rattling between different prints of the same decoder module name

 

@Parker 7

No it's not. I think you are confusing the Transmission Decoder module near the shift lever (which is on on the starter diagram pages) with the Reader/Exciter module (on Section 15.4). Two different modules.

The Reader/Exciter module is near the steering column.

 

Thanks Brenden ,

Challenging days for me piecing things together back on dialysis chairs as failure in support group at home with me being an exemplary kidney total failure patient with otherwise good health

I have taken apart both areas of behind the dash ( instrument cluster and ignition key switch ) and shift column ( above and below car ) on mine but did not remember seeing something behind the dash being a USA model

It will probably be pictured in the very beginning component location drawings in the first pages of the wiring guide , haven't learned the new take a snap shot process as the Adobe PDF changed on me , so from me no pictures / drawings

My approach to the termed immobilizer issue is to start with the key in chip transponder ring / coil

But immobilization can come from other areas of the matrix of transmission position signal gathering to enable starter / engine run

I will be up through the morning in prep for dialysis chair

Thanks again

 

I did see a device on Youtube to test if the transponder coil is emitting RF to the chip in key

But lacking this device there might be a way to somewhat see you have RF at he key ( fluorescent bulb ? ) or a return signal to components in the chain

 

I'd recommend Faststone Capture program. It's free and let's you screen shot anything on your display (even video). I've been using it for many years.

This is not a great picture but the only one I have of the module.

 

Is this it and does it require a separate device to read / extract from the car

General Information (faststonesoft.net)

 

Yes that's it. It doesn't connect to your car. I meant it can capture screen shots of you PC/Laptop display (instead of Adobe).

 

Thanks ,

On dialysis chair now so can learn the new Adobe if the option is still avail to extract a snapshot to play with in Paint

Would the small old school orange neon bulbs light in the dark with the coil RF if present , it would be very weak to actually power the neon

The common AC voltage detector probe ?

 

Key chip at 125 khz as a starting reference freq to sniff for ?

• Radio Frequency (RF) Detection: Germanium diodes’ low forward voltage drop makes them ideal for detecting and demodulating weak radio frequency signals in vintage radio receivers and crystal radio sets.

This detector would only sense that it is alive and not decifer

First things first , fuse for the chip in key decoder module

 

Fuse # 4 ( hot at all times ) trunk fuse box again as the Brown / Blue wire in position 1 of the decoder module connector in the dash

So it will be in a corner position of the FC53 connector in Brendan's circled pic

Brendan's Right Hand Steering model will have this between the center console and the left hand side of the steering column different than right at the ignition switch column's right location

This is different then the CC13 connector on the transmission shift lever linier switch box ( decoder )

You most likely already have fuse # 4 intact as it power the SLCM in the trunk

But it goes fwd to the dash through the BT4 connector ( wire position 14 ) above the fuel tank that can be ( BT4 connector ) not fully connected / locked over bar

This is a connector that can be tricky to connect fully and not try too hard and break the connector shell external 2 lock pins in the below pic

There is some sheet metal layers cutout in the way on the shell perimeter from fully mating

But is worth visually inspecting that the lock over bar is tie wrapped secured

 

If the car has been standing for 12 years there are many more hurdles to clear before trying to crank the engine. Mine stood for almost three years in the open, so water, dust, tree leaves fragments, moisture and fuel contaminants found ways into the fuel tank and any earlier attempts to crank would only force more dirt into the fuel supply system: fuel lines, fuel filter, fuel rails, injectors, spark plugs, combustion chambers, etc. Furthermore, however airtight, surface rust would be present inside the piston walls, etc., making the first crank more difficult.. One should also presume that, owing to the lapse of time, the crankshaft position sensor (CPS) would be unfit to do its job. My mechanic had to remove and clean the fuel tank, replace the fuel pumps, fuel filter, fuel lines, spark plugs, injectors, engine oil..... Then he had to wiggle the crankshaft to unlock surface rust, and pour some lubricant oil into the fuel tank. You will also need to ensure that the starter and the battery are fit for the job. If the car's body processing module (BPM) is in good health, it will allow the starter, fuel pumps and ignition system to work beyond the first few seconds, but this only happens after the ECU receives a positive signal from the security module. If the engine light goes out before the key is turn to the ignition position, the engine is immobilized. The immobilizer has a disarming procedure, but if the procedure does not work and the engine remains immobilized, your last hope is to find Andy to write you a special ECU to neutralize security check upon engine start. Good luck.