I bought x300 xj6 with 3.2 i6 engine. it has sat two years in garage and it wont start. First issue was starter which spinned freely, i changed good starter and now it cranks. Then i didnt have spark and rev counter didnt move, i measured ohm reading from crank sensor and it was dead, now there is good crank sensor in and rev counter moves when cranking and also there is spark. And also changed new good battery.

I checked white 13pin and black connector behind rh front head light, no corrosion, but anyway cleaned them. Also tried swapping those relays above those connectors. Checked all fuses in engine bay and in rh enginebay fuse box i measured good voltage to fuses: 6,11,12 and 14.

Also i have tried to read fault codes which gives only p1333. My fault code reader isnt good. In my previous xjr when crank sensor failed it gave same code.

Also i have another 3.2 ecu which I tried but it did change nothing. And I put locking pliers to fuel return hose so it cannot be faulty pressure regulator either.

Check engine light is on when i turn key but when I start to crank it goes away.


So i have new crank sensor, spark and i can smell fuel and checked that there is fuel in rail. Fuel tank was almost empty and i poured 20L good quality fuel in there. But it wont even try to start, just normal cranking but wont fire...

 

The fuel pump will run for 4 seconds only then turn off , it comes back on for the duration of the drive when the crankshaft sensor sees engine rotation, on , off , on

so you should feel 3 clicks of the # 1 fuel pump relay as it " fully " starts up

There was a resent cases where this initial 4 seconds trapped fuel pressure in the lines was bled off by one stuck open fuel injector , this would ruin the fuel amount being injected into the other cylinders making a failed engine start . This may explain your smelling of fuel observation .

That being said lets try some easy things first

The fuel injectors and other sensors are powered by the large right # 5 ECU controlled relay . This relay is controlled by the ECU and eventually brings power back into the ECU

The pic below is almost the same for the 3.2 liter


The other power source for the ECU is the small right # 9 in the corner of the right engine bay fuse box , this is point 32 circle double hash on the right side of the picture , This is fuse # 12 / 10 amp right engine bay fuse box which has to have the relay close

About 1 / 2 the fuses are hot at all times and do not need the relay to close

You must feel with your finger the relays click closed

I'm assuming you swapped these 2 large and small relays

Cranking voltage above 11.4 volts ?

Reset inertia switch ?

 

Take the breather hose of the top of the plastic elbow and spray easy start in there for 5-10 seconds. Crank engine. If it coughs = fuel issue(probably stuck injectors), if it doesn't = electrical issue. Its always first thing that should be done troubleshooting no start issues.

 

I measured fuel pressured it is almost 70psi so it is ok. Took off injectors and none of them is leaking. Spark looks quite weak but i guess it should atleast cough or try to start. Swapped all relays with starter solenoid relay and they seem to work. Also changed those smaller relays in engine bay fuse box. Cranking voltage is good. Forget to bypass inertia but i think it isnt that becaus fuel pump is getting power. Also forced fuel pump to run and tried to start and didnt help, still nothing.

Sorry about my bad english but i didnt understand this "The other power source for the ECU is the small right # 9 in the corner of the right engine bay fuse box , this is point 32 circle double hash on the right side of the picture , This is fuse # 12 / 10 amp right engine bay fuse box which has to have the relay close"

Yes i did check that engine bay rh fuse box and fuse number 12 is getting power when key is turned on.

I dont have noid light set so i cannot test if injectors are getting any power

and tomorrow i will try with starter fluid.

 

You seeing power on fuse # 12 proves your # 9 small relay is closed and good

Have you swapped the large right # 5 ECU controlled relay ?

 

If you mean these relays in picture rh side yes i have tested every one of them and they work
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...5d0e279754.png

 

compression test?

fuel wash happens to these cars for some reason

 

Tested compression, everything is ok. Inertia switch ok.

Checked timing it is ok

tested with starter fluid, it bangs in intake. Maf likes it

 

I have come to conclusion that injectors wont open. Does anyone know what could cause it? Or does security control unit control injectors?

 

The injectors always have power sitting on them from the large right # 5 ECU controlled relay

The ECU provideds a timed ground on the injectors to get them to open and pulse

Battery staying above 11.4 volts during starter sag ?

Inertia switch reset ?

The security module sends a enable signal to the ECU which provides the injector grounds

I wouldn't change the ECU yet as there are some other simple things to look at

Logging out , timed out for the day

 

I checked when key is turned on injectors get power and ground. I have checked inertia switch few times and it is ok. If i unplug it, fuel pump wont run nor car even crank. Battery voltage stays good. Maybe i'll just change security module since it is quite easy.

I have two engine ecus and tried both.

 

On the thought of fuel pressure the fuel pump will run for 4 seconds only with the first rotation of the key

The fuel pressure should be trapped sitting above the fuel injectors

If the fuel pressure leaks off during this period that the fuel pump is not running the cylinders may not be getting enough fuel charge for a successful light off

After a light off the crankshaft sensor will see engine rotation and turn the pump back of for the duration of your drive

To improve this trapped fuel pressure you can swap the # 1 fuel pump relay with the one on the most inboard position in the trunk

You can clamp the return fuel line to manually trap this fuel pressure from returning to the fuel tank

You can cycle the key several times before rotating to the start position to better charge this trapped fuel pressure

There have been some cases even with new fuel pumps where the check valve in the pump assembly have failed and you can add a fuel check valve outside of the tank negating the need to replace the pump

As the fuel bump fails electrically it will burn the contacts on the relay ( new one recommended on pump change ) and the sockets on the pump itself get burnt . These 2 factors will have a negative effect on the quantity of the initial 4 second fuel charge being trapped

How old is the fuel ?

 

I measured pressure it was great. And already forced fuel pump run all the time and clamped return line but same problem. Fuel is just 2 weeks old and 98 octane.

From SLCM to engine ecu there come green-black wire "Fueling inhibit". I checked all connectors on the way. and then i cut it to test what happens, car wont let even crank. Then i made bypass wire straight from slcm to engine ecu and tried and it just cranked and gave spark but wont even try to fire.

Strange thing is that when i try with starter fluid it always bangs in intake, engine wont suck starting fluid to cylinder. And yeah I checked timing.

I have checked everything, it starts to annoy. Thinking about m57d30 swap since i have engine and tranny laying in garage...

 

The injectors can physically stick due to fuel turning to sticky goo. Try removing them and testing.

 

Yesterday I replaced them with 4.0 sc injectors just to try. no difference

 

The supercharged injectors are a different part number and their performance response has to match the maps in the ECU so you have a miss match

Soooooooo in theory .........

With the predetermined pulse width of the injector in the start regain you would be getting too much fuel in the cylinders

This would be before you go to full engine regulation in the closed loop mode

The fuel pressure of 70 PSI is high if you read it as an installed item in the system with the fuel pressure regulator

With everything hooked up you will see 43 PSI at idle and a bit higher ( 47 ) on throttle up by way of the intake vacuum hose on the FPR

There is a T fitting that can be placed in the fuel line as it comes up the back to the fuel rail

Too high of a fuel pressure will have the effect of a bore wash condition even though you have earlier done a compression test

The way you get out of the bore wash condition if not too bad is to hold the gas pedal to the floor and the ECU knows to cut off the fuel and oil from the bottom of the piston will reestablish your compression and then you can try a normal start as long as your battery voltage stays above 11.4 volts during the heat of battle