XJ6 accelerating by itself
#1
XJ6 accelerating by itself
I was driving down the road the other day and noticed when I take my foot of the gas the car does not slow down or drop rpm's. Later that same day when I was pulling out of a parking lot the car actually started speeding up by itself. I went and bought some fuel injector cleaner hoping that might solve the problem. Any thoughts as to what it might be?
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Ford quadricycle
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Ford quadricycle
Last edited by jhxj6; 03-23-2011 at 01:53 AM.
#2
#3
there was a TSB issued to address the throttle return spring,
they replaced it with a stronger spring, NBB 3131 AB,
but try cleaning it first.
I find a nice thorough cleaning does wonders,
toothbrush, pipe cleaners, TB cleaner, rags, q-tips, and the like.
take care not to let dirty solvent drain into the TPS or the bearings for the butterfly valve.
(cured by TPS removal and cleaning of TB off the car)
whenever I do it I remove the IAC valve also, taking care not to lose the little sealing ring at the base of it.
then again I'm also obsessive about removing every little bit of carbon off of stuff I clean.
they replaced it with a stronger spring, NBB 3131 AB,
but try cleaning it first.
I find a nice thorough cleaning does wonders,
toothbrush, pipe cleaners, TB cleaner, rags, q-tips, and the like.
take care not to let dirty solvent drain into the TPS or the bearings for the butterfly valve.
(cured by TPS removal and cleaning of TB off the car)
whenever I do it I remove the IAC valve also, taking care not to lose the little sealing ring at the base of it.
then again I'm also obsessive about removing every little bit of carbon off of stuff I clean.
#5
it's the green thing.
secured to the intake manifold with 4 bolts, 10mm if memory serves.
the top portion that the throttle cable attaches to is held on with three torx bolts, and upon removal, I STRONGLY suggest securing it with a zip tie as to preserve it's orientation to facilitate reassembly. you'll see what I mean when you take it apart.
also, take extra care with the throttle spring, and ensure that it does not unwind itself while you're removing the throttle body. if this happens and you don't notice, the throttle will stick open all the time and you'll wonder why.
ask me how I know.
secured to the intake manifold with 4 bolts, 10mm if memory serves.
the top portion that the throttle cable attaches to is held on with three torx bolts, and upon removal, I STRONGLY suggest securing it with a zip tie as to preserve it's orientation to facilitate reassembly. you'll see what I mean when you take it apart.
also, take extra care with the throttle spring, and ensure that it does not unwind itself while you're removing the throttle body. if this happens and you don't notice, the throttle will stick open all the time and you'll wonder why.
ask me how I know.
Last edited by panchostatus; 03-23-2010 at 04:48 PM.
#6
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
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These posts are all pretty much correct, but barring finding that spring anymore, we used to take the top off to expose it and wind it around 1 more time to increase tension. Remember to clean the throttle when at operarting temp or youll have hell starting it with carb cleaner in the intake
#7
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#10
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
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yES BUT WE'RE talking common well known issues and that spring and dirty throttle blades are the big culprits, even when they were still under warranty. also a vacuum leak will kick and p0171, p0174 lean engine condition since the 02s will read lean and the engine will have to add fuel to comphensate. This is how it knows lean or rich by the adaptive fueling in comparison to programmed parameters in the ecu. It will go either +/- 25% added or subtracted fuel to maintain correct air to fuel ratios as read by the 02 sensors.
#11
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