With all due respect to your electrician, I would be inclined to agree with the view expressed earlier, that these modules are not soldering iron friendly.
Was it not the case that your problem was the coil wires were swapped between 5 and 6? Great spot from sparkenzapp, but not unprecedented, and would suggest you didn't need any of the amplifiers that your electrician fitted. Collateral damage to the ecu could explain why you have a selection of new warning lights after you resumed 6 cylinder operation.

 

I would tend to agree, but I would not be as bold as say that it is impossible that the fellow soldered in 18 transistors (amplifiers) without screwing up the board. What I really would like to know, assuming any of the transistors were bad, is "how did they get bad?"

Edit**
I just looked at the TCU and it is fried. I would say that either this car got hit by lightning , or, more likely, got voltage reversal due to the battery or jumper cables being hooked up wrong! I am now tending to believe he has identified an electrical wizard!

 

Dear countyjag thank you for the answer. I had the same warning light before when i had it on 4 cyl working. Now im very happy that i have all the 6. I will kindly ask the professionality of this electrician one more time in order to reasure myself that he knows his stuff. Thank you for the advise

 

Dear sparkenzal i think i red earlier somebody mentioned exactly those transistors tend to get bad with time. Correct me if im wrong. Keeping in mind the milage and the age of that beast i supposed he was right saying they are bad and suggested to change all 6 injectors. As for the coils i noticed strange things when i Ohmed the cables of exactly those 2 cylinders (the frequency was correct when car was off and then strange things started to happen with the motor running compared with the 1-4th cyls.
i hope that this guy knows what he is doing... will keep you posted!!
Thanks alot

 

Something has been hot there! I will be interested in your man's comments!

 

No, there is no history reported of bad transistors on an X-300 ECU. In fact, as xjrengineer stated, valid problems reported on an ECU are pretty much non existent and limited to corroded connector pins.

I still suspect reverse polarity happened at some time. Do you know the car's history?

 

I suppose this is what happened also. I just know it was driven by a famous spanish actor Hector Cantolla (the Terminators spanish double voice ) and it has the service book all in Jaguar. Then last 4 years we dont know i actuallt bought it from his gardener after being like 2years on a parking lot out on the street. Thanks go the weather in south of spain is great and i had to change some minor issues from the hot sun. And thats its story
im dying to see what the electritian guy will tell me tomorrow.

 

Dear all,
I got the TCM on sat morning. My electrician said there was the transistor blown, the black one right besides the yellow that is covered with dust (see the pic above). I plugged it in and all perfect
Thanks and appreciation for the help given!!!


During the weekend i was so happy with my ride that i took the Karcher at home and I got a light engine wash. After that the car does everything but crank. Any ideas will be welcome.


PS: i will put a separate post for my proper transmission mount upgrade soon

 

Heh, heh. Remove all of the coils and dry out the spark plug boots. Check the connector on the CKPS (Crank Sensor) and dry it out. Some folks have reported a failed CKPS after a bath.

I think Hector let someone try and jump start with car with reversed cables! Keep track of that "electrician". He seems like a wizard to me.

 

Its not even cranking. Just the little click from the key and nothing from the motor. Doesnt it seems like a starter problem to you?

 

No! In order:
1. Weak Battery (careful how you connect the charger cables
2. High Current Power connectors at 4 places under the hood.
3. Battery Ground Connection
4. Engine Ground Strap
5. Battery cables
6. Starter

But, then again, your car has been an unusual case, so far!

 

Thanks sparkenzap. So far i found those issues:
1. Disconnected ground behind front left headlight - the nut broke so i made a new ground connection with the chassis



2. Xtreme corrosion on the lower right wire of white connector behind the front right headlight - took it our and connected it together then taped it good. Also got the white connector upwards as on the picture since i red it is a problematic one ones it get wet from underneeth:



3. Back at the ECM i found abit of oily water on pin 24 - Engine Position Sensor 12v Supply. Blowed and cleaned it good both the connector and the red low power connector P1105:



No good luck so far tomorrow I was thinking to follow the P1105/024 to see where it leads me:



From you list i dont understand point 2. Could you be so kind to explain which 4 u mean?
Thanks a lot

 

The high power bulkhead connectors on firewall- high uop near the hood latches, and the two connectors on the fuse boxes are known to become loose and corrode.

 

Thank you for the explanation. Number 4: engine ground strap i suppose is the one that goes from the starter to the chassis?

 

And my "engine wont crank" condition was due to a bad BPM.

To further, installed new BPM, engine now cranks, but doesn't fire (and tach needle resting at zero). Replaced CKPS, engine now fires up and runs.

 

Ok guys this is what i found so far. Thanks to sparkenzap i chekced the 4 high current power connectors and i found serious corrosion on both at the firewall as a direct result from the pressure wash since the lefthandside was still wet 6 days after
Left handside:

Right handside:

Now they shine more than ever
I inspected the left handside fuse box and found a bit of corrosion. All cleaned and shiny:

I have checked the battery cables neg and pos and all functions good also fired 12v at the wire of the starter and it moves the whole engine without problem.
so far no luck...
I will double check all fuses and relays tomorrow and then im out of ideas

I red in here http://easyautodiagnostics.com/misc-...on-car-tests-2 about the Ignition Switch and the Neutral Safety Switch any ideas how can i check those?*

 

Dear cardercay,
Thanks for the reply. I had my car running fine just before the engine pressure bath. Do you think i could have got the BLM and CKPS bad from the water?

 

And the party is over. I found the responsable switch for the no ignition problem. I have the following symptoms:
When i put the gear stick to P it does not start , however when i pull it just a bit downwards then it does fire perfectly. When i turn off the key then the beeping starts as the gear box is not on Park position.
Does somebody knows the reference of this:



Wd40 did not help. I suppose i need a new one

 

It is actually part number #29 in the picture that is your problem. The P in park must be lit up red for the car to start. Part #29 is what tells the ECM that the car is in park and lights up the gears. You can adjust it by loosening the 2 screws on the side. It is not difficult to adjust, but it is very fiddly.