May have spoke too soon on the bracket thread, might be best to do this instead. I dont mind the money.
my mods will be just exhaust, air intake, and if theres a better injector or ignition to put in id do that as well 1996 x300 AJ6, then have you remap me? anything else simple bolt on/light fab i should do first?

 

My revised bracket is the simplest modification for an AJ6 engine. I don't remap these engines, only AJ16 (X300 not XJ40)

 

I want to know how long does it take for ECU Calabration to be complete. I replace with a newer ECU today. Is there a number of drives, miles/ kilometers, or time to remap the ECU. How should I drive it for how long? I do drive hard at times. I took a trip in town and Expressway today. Put in Sport mode during testing. Before that I did recieve a load of Engine codes. After driving in sport Mode, stopped at a light. The "Engine Check" indicator flashed then solid again. I Got on express way to next exit. Drove home. Checked codes I found 7. Reminded me of day one with my car! I written all the codes down, 20 minutes later started the car again, let idle in Park for 6 minutes. Moved though gears, placed in Park. While Idle in park, settle currently at 1,900 to 2,100 RPMs. While Idle in Drive settles at 1,100RPMs. I have manually not adjusted anything Throttle/Idle. While my 1st drive the RPM settled at 900 while in drive. While driving it coasted at whatever Speed I had was going it was about 1,300 to 1,500 rpm cruising. Stuck until pressure on Brake pedal. I need help! Thank you for your support.

 

The calibration is "complete" when the car leaves the factory. The ECU cannot be "remapped" without taking it apart and replacing the plug in "integrated circuits". What I think you are describing are the adaption functions in the engine ECU software. Over time, the ECU "learns" the voltage when the throttle is closed and the closed loop fueling corrections required to keep the engine running at the correct air:fuel ratio. The throttle will adapt as soon as the ignition is turned on. The fueling needs multiple periods of idling and steady state cruising speed to adapt. A few minutes of each, maybe 10 times each.

The idle speed in drive is meant to be about 100rpm lower in drive than in neutral. The idle speed varies with coolant temperature. When the engine is fully warm, the neutral idle speed should be about 600-650rpm. Your high idle speed could be caused by an air leak, a throttle mechanical stuck slightly open, or the ECU "learning" a closed throttle voltage which is actually lower than the true closed throttle voltage. In this situation, the engine ECU will not try to control the idle speed, and the speed will tend to be higher than the intended speed. If you are sure there is no air leak and the throttle is not mechanically stuck open, then you need someone to perform a "throttle adaption" using diagnostic equipment.

 

So, on the Idle RPM. When at light in Drive, at idles about 650-700 that what you meant? When in neutral or park eggos to 850-1000RPM. I have been dealing with an air leak at the exhaust Manifild/ Down Pipe Connection for some time now. I sealed that up hopefully finally today with some more JB Weld Extreme Heat. When I went driving earlier today, it was felt better than usual. Since I recently installed a new ECU. I'm getting codes that I did not before. Most of the codes are about emissions. One is about the Carbon Canister. So, one more part to be replaced. After that, from fixing the exhaust leak, I should have no more engine codes. The Random Misfire I think has been from persistent exhaust leak.

 

This might have been asked before, but is it possible to take an XJ6 ECU and remap it to XJR specification, or does it have stay supercharged to supercharged?

 

i am so happy i found this old post, i had to make new account just to write here.

i have an 3,2 x300 which i started using again now and i am doing some changes.
first one is straight pipe replacing intermediate and back mufflers.
replaced already air filter with a KN.

so the question here is, is it possible to provide a remapped chip (i can install my self) in order to make the car running happier;
i also have been thinking if pops and bangs are possible.

at second stage, i am curious if is possible to fit a stock supercharger from an R model or an aftermarket, on my 3,2 humble engine and if by fitting a supercharger a remapped chip can make things work even if it wont be as efficient as a full xjr motor.

i would really appreciate a guideline here.

thanks in advance

 

andys bracket is installed too already. if that makes any change to the mapping idea.

 

Don’t force injection a NA car, the compression ratio is too high for engine to live long.
See this post https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-limit-241367/

 

Jagboi64 - Yes I can repogramme an engine ECU from 4.0L naturally aspirated spec to XJR spec. I've done it many times.

Elizabeth_straight - If you already have my bracket fitted, then you have most of the benefit of remapping the ECU, at a much lower cost. I would not recommend trying to install a supercharger on a 3.2L or 4.0L naturally aspirated engine. The block is not machined for the supercharger mounted bracket and the compression of the naturally aspirated engine is really too higher for any form of pressure charger.

 

Hello,
I have a xj6 sport 4.0 and want to put the xjr engine in it. From what I have read, I only have to change the fuel pump, maf and ecu when I put the xjr sc motor. Is that correct?
mine has manual trans.
thank you for your time!

 

do I need also the complete engine bay wires? Or with mine should it work?
I found a LNA1410TB. Does it have inmo or is it plug&play?
thanks

 

You will also need the water-air charger cooler system in the front of the cooling pack. The harness is slightly different between naturally aspirated and supercharged engines due to different component locations on the engine, but a naturally aspirated engine harness could be modified to work by extending any leads that are too short, if the harness didn't come with the SC engine. If the harness came with the XJR engine, then it would be better to use the XJR harness. The engine ECU is "partly "plug&play". You may need to swap the oxygen sensors the other way around, if there were orientated the other way round on the car from which the donor ECU was removed. You may also need someone to perform a closed throttle adaptation, using suitable diagnostic equipment, in order to learn the closed throttle voltage on the throttle potentiometer of the replacement engine.

 

Current transmission and different transmission crossmember can handle it ?

The TPS sensor on the donor engine my not match to ECU obtained from wherever

You can't just plug and play a TPS sensor unless you are very lucky and you get a good " match " with the ECU , it will most likely need calibrating

 

Any Jaguar specialist who has Jaguar diagnostic equipment or an aftermarket system like Auto logic, will be able to perform a "throttle adaption" and "oxygen sensor orientation". This will match the hardware of the new engine to the the ECU, if you didn't already buy them together. Please also note that the single fuel pump from a naturally aspirated X300 will not supply sufficient fuel for an XJR6 engine. An XJR vehicle has twin fuel pumps, with the second pump only operating above 4000rpm

 

I have recently programmed an engine ECU for a European specification automatic XJR6 with a revised ignition map. This is the latest addition to my range of reprogrammed Jaguar AJ16 engine ECUs, which also includes manual specification XJR6 and manual specification naturally aspirated 4.0L engines. These ECUs are available with the engine immobiliser function disabled, making them ideal for anyone installing one of these engines into a non-X300 vehicle.

 

That is music to my ears... As soon as I find a donor car, I'll be looking for you!

 

my jag is from california and my ecu stopped working. Do you have an available ecu or can I send you mine to repair? I bought a few of them and they never worked. Can you help please

 

I'm afraid that I don't repair ECUs, I only reprogramme them. What makes you think the ECU has failed, especially if you have tried fitting other ECUs. If they don't work either, then it seems more likely that the problem is with the car. X300s were prone to water ingress down the main engine harness. This can lead to corrosion in the connectors to the engine ECU. I would recommend checking the condition of these connectors. Also, crank position sensor can fail at around 100,000miles, and this will result in the engine cranking but not starting. In this situation the rev counter does not register when the engine is cranking, at typically 200rpm.

 

The X300 ECU is powered by 2 relays , right engine bay fuse box relay ( ignition positive relay RH # 9 ) and a larger ECU controlled relay ( RH # 5 ) that is controlled by the ECU and brings power back into the ECU

You can swap the right engine bay relay for the left ( LH # 7 ) .....................( only controls the horn ) and the ECU relay for a headlight or fog light of the same part # , there are several of the same part #

The CKPS can fail in different ways that the single signal is used and not give a CEL code