Plums,

I did put four gallons of gas in the tank...no worries there.

So, I should FIRST un-nut my Fuel Filter, from the Fuel Tank Line... Put a bucket underneath the Inlet Line (from the fuel tank TO the fuel filter).

SECOND connect the "jump" wire in the Trunk Fuse Box & close the trunk lid.

THIRD turn the ignition on and pump the gas pedal a few times...then, turn the ignition off.

FOURTH open the trunk lid and pull-out the "jump" wire... then look for fuel in the bucket underneath the car (under the fuel line / fuel filter inlet).

Yes?

W. Paul

 

No.

The pump will start up the moment you jump. No time to close the trunk and
no need to turn the key.

Undo the inlet nut a couple of turns so that it is loose enough
to let fuel flow past the nut. No need to remove it completely.

Put pan underneath to catch any fuel.

Watch for seepage before pumping so that you know what is
seepage and what is actual pumped fuel. Then jump the pump.

OUTSIDE!

The gurgling might only happen right when the pump starts up
after sitting. After it has run a few turns, it has filled itself and
will not gurgle anymore.

 

Plums,

I did put four gallons of fuel in the gas tank...no worries there.

So, can I safely do this, without the possibility of a spark, fire and blow?

Jack the car up... release the Fuel Filter on the Tank Fuel Line side & place a bucket underneath.

Open the trunk lid, place the "jump" wire in place, place a blanket over it and close the trunk lid.

Turn the key ignition to the on position and pump the gas pedal a few times...then, turn off the key ignition.

Go to trunk and remove "jump" wire out of Trunk Fuse Box.

Last, look for fuel in bucket underneath car, where the fuel line meets the Fuel Filter inlet.

I do not have a fire extinguisher here...can this truly spark, fire and blow?

W. Paul

 

Okay... I will do this tomorrow.

So, once I unscrew the inlet connection from the fuel tank TO the fuel filter...and I attach the "jump" wire... I should have fuel underneath the car inside the bucket. Correct?

W. Paul

 

Plums,

My apologies... I thought my earlier response didn't post and I sent it again.

I didn't see that this has become a Two Pager already.

Regards,

W. Paul

 

a) safety is solely your responsibility and risk ... full stop.

b) who said anything about completely undoing the filter nut?

c) why do you have this fascination with the ignition key when it
has been clearly stated that the fuel pump will be live as soon as
it is jumpered?

your best bet is to go back and re-read the earlier posts until
you are sure you completely understand what you are going
to do, the reason why, and the possible consequences.

 

Hey JaguarXJ8L, I ran across this old tech bulletin (looking for a vacuum chart) and thought you may want to check it out. What caught my eye was where it talks about backfiring. Perhaps Plums may know more of this and can enlighten us?
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...Flowcharts.pdf
...and another for hard or no starts....
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...rd%20Start.pdf

I was wondering if you may have blown off a line when it backfired?

 

Okay... I got the engine running. I had to clear-out the fuel-bank, remake new fuel lines in the rear of the car, as there were some small "kinks" in the lines...and I ran Rubber Lines out of the Gas Tank Bottom (with some extra-length for any future Fuel Pump issues). I changed the Fuel Pump from a Precise to an Adelphi...as the Adelphi connection lip had a nice nipple-lock to it, where the Precise Fuel Pump did not.

Now, when the car runs for 15 Minutes or so...in the trunk there appears a constant loud "Hummmmming" noise and the Check Engine Light comes on the dash...with an Amber Light and "Reduced Performance" phrase...then, the "Reduced Performance" phrase & the Amber Light will go away...with the Check Engine Light remaining. All the while, when driving the car in a 45 MPH Zone, the engine will only allow for intermittent 10mph-20mph speeds, with a Hesitating Engine.

Anyone ever run into these performance, audible and visual issues?

 

I would get a fuel pressure test gauge and test the pressure at the test port. Your symptoms MAY be from low fuel pressure. Lengthen the gauge hose so you can tape the gauge to the outside of the windscreen while driving the car.

I assume you changed your fuel pump without removing the tank from the car?

 

SparkNZap,

I actually pulled the tank out of the car...the previous owner did a Fuel Pump Replacement a couple of years ago, and I believe they began those "small kinks". When I caught a good view of those Fuel Lines, I just cut them and began rebuilding them. The previous owner did a job on the Evaporative Flange as well, so I bought one from American Auto Parts in Texas (good guys...good prices) (972) 579-7529...They dismantle crashed Jaguars and sell on Ebay...but, Juan will accept direct calls.

I will get on the Fuel Pressure Gauge tomorrow...Thanks for the advice.

Regards,

W. Paul

 

How did you make up the rubber lines to the quick connects? Several folks have had a hell of a time figuring that out. If you can show pictures it will help others if they are caught with the same problem.

What thing did you do that made the car run? As far as I can tell, you fixed small kinks and put in a new pump. Is that it? You must be getting pretty good at wrestling the tank in and out by now!

Also, what codes do you now have? The RP warning can come with or without a CEL, but a CEL, theoretically, means there IS a stored code.

Good luck.

 

I bought new Quick Connect Ends at AutoZone...Then DOUBLE Metal Screw Clamped the Rubber Hoses to the Short Quick Connect Ends & DOUBLE Metal Screw Clamped the other end of the Rubber Hoses to the 2 Metal Fuel Lines that lead to the Fuel Filter and lead to the Fuel Return Line.

LOL...I can now take out that Fuel Tank in 4.5 Minutes. If a NASCAR TEAM is interested, I could do it within a Pit Stop soon (Ha Ha).

I had a P1230 Code & a P1000 Code. From what I gathered, the P1230 Code = Fuel Pump Low Speed Malfunction...I assumed this was from the "kinked" fuel lines and those "kinked" fuel lines probably caused the original fuel pump to lose the rubber hose connection within the Fuel Tank.

Regards,

W. Paul

 

The code is actually for an open electrical circuit on the pump. No doubt that happened while you were troubleshooting.
BTW, I THINK the thing you asked about earlier in the picture is part of the air assist fuel induction used on the AJ27 engine.