UPDATE: So I got my TB back from ASI and I'm still experiencing the same issue, any thoughts guys? Could the TPS being out of adjustment cause this? I was sure I reset the computer but my radio stations are still present... I need help guys... Thank you :-)

 

Have you called ASI and asked them on how to proceed? I remember some other forum members had to adjust the TPS after they installed the rebuilt Throttle Body from ASI (by following ASI instuctions they received from calling them).

Jim Lombardi

 

I tried but I think there closed for the day... So the tps being out of adjustment would cause the fail safe mode?

 

Either out of adjustment, or they didn't replace the TPS. I agree with Jim; call ASI Monday morning and tell them the problem is still there.
Good Luck!

 

Some how it's not going into failsafe mode anymore..... It now idles like it's misfiring and in drive it is at about 1300 rpms. So yes I'm going to assume that it just needs adjustment. So does anyone know where I can buy the specialty tool? I've called Scottsdale Jaguar to ask about the tool if they even sell it also what the would charge just for the tps adjustment. Currently I'm awaiting a call back to see what they say but any other input would be helpful. Thanks for all the help :-)

 

What specialty tool? To adjust the TPS you just loosen the two screws and rotate slightly. Mine were just regular screws... but not sure if that's how it came from ASI, or if Maxbore replaced them.

To set the TPS, use a multimeter to get the correct values.
I'll see if I can find the thread with the values... I think it's in the XK section though?

edit: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...acement-77560/

 

Thx grandell, that will definitely come in handy! But yeah the 2 screws on the tps are some what of a tourx (sry spelling) type but it's definitely not tourx I'll have to get a pic and post them.

Edit pic added...

 

Sears sells this version of Torxx. Have seen the sets at Lowes and Home Depot as well.

 

My TB from ASI came with the Torx Plus screws (Torx with a pin in the center). If you can get the screws loose, just rotate the TPS, snug the screws, do a hard reset and try again. I didn't have or know about the procedure with the meter at the time I did mine but it seemed to run fine after I got it to idle normally.

 

How do I do a hard reset? I loosened the negative and held it to the positive terminal for 60 seconds and just left it unplugged for about 15min. Is that correct? I managed to loosen the 2 screws and moved the tps but it still goes into failsafe mode? I'll call asi tomorrow but I thought at least that would have went away and I would just have to adjust the tps for power and idle issues? Any advice guys? Thank you all :-)

 

Even Before you do a hard reset - you should use a code reader (scanner) to see what DTC trouble codes have been set, then erase them using that function in the code reader device.

Here is some information on a Hard Reset -

I have extracted parts of the infomation from a previous post by forum member Red October:
Disconnect the negative lead from the BATTERY terminal.
Touch the end of the negative lead to the battery positive lead.

Here is a photo that was provided by forum member SuperSport:

NOTICE: NOTHING CONNECTED TO NEGATIVE TERMINAL



Here are a couple of comments by SuperSport:

Remove Negative Battery Terminal from the Negative Battery Post (10mm Wrench)

Touch Negative Terminal End to Positive Terminal End and hold there for 15 'ish seconds (Positive Terminal will still be connected to Positive Battery Post)

Reconnect Negative Battery Terminal back to Negative Battery Post

On First Start after the Hard Reset, let the car idle for a minute or two without touching throttle. This allows the computers to recalculate the throttle position, etc... Also, the car may drive differently for an hour or so while it's relearning your driving habits.

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Next I am paraphasing Red October other comments:

Touching the disconnected negative lead end to the positive terminal will short-circuit the supply rails at the ECU's & modules to discharge the internal capacitors.

Also forum member Reverend Sam comment also helps to explain the hard reset:

When you touch the negative cable to the positive terminal on the battery, there is nothing at all hooked to the negative terminal. Any electricity stored in the electrical system drains out through the negative cable and into the chassis.

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Also here are forum member Brutal comments on hard reset:

The reason I and others say disc (disconnect) the negative (battery cable from the negative post) is 2 reasons
1) it usually the closest and easiest to access

2) there is usually little or nothing else hooked to it
The reason it works on the capacitors is THEY still have a complete circuit on the car so you are giving their positive terminal a path to ground to discharge them.

And since the ignition provides a mechanical link to circuits that are isolated.

You can/should also switch the key to the on position while the battery is unhooked and hard reboot again.

Then shut off the key and go back and reconnect the battery.....and no a hard reboot will not clear codes on ODBII.

While it MIGHT, turn off a check engine light(depending on WHAT, the stored codes are) they DO NOT go away.

There are codes that will only show when active/pending, and if you shut off the ignition they may not show even with Jaguars IDS(again it depends on the code/situation)

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Here is what I have found about how long to hold the negative battery cable to the positive battery cable:
anywhere between 15 to 30 seconds.

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One last comment on Hard Reset found on another website (jeeves and the jaguar.com)
A hard reset is done by touching one of the disconnected battery cables to the other one that is still attached to the battery for about 30 seconds.

This is like doing a full restart and your car will be forced to learn again - you can also temporarily remove stored problem codes this way.
It is normal after disconnecting the battery that you're RPMs will be high when restarting your car and your acceleration will be very brisk.

This is part of the learning process and on your next start up it should be at normal levels.

Jim Lombardi

 

Thx Jim Lombardi. OK so I'm doing it correctly. So I've also called ASI thus morning and they told me the same thing. I've adjusted the tps and performed the hard reset 3 times and it still goes into failsafe mode. I've contacted ASI and the tech who specializes in building the Jaguar throttle body's is going to call me back with further assistance. I didn't drive and go get my codes pulled because the whole failsafe, don't want to hurt anything. Has anybody else had similar issues after a rebuild?

 

Ok so I've been in communication with Will @ASI and he's been helping me. I've adjusted the TPS about 8 - 10 different positions always with a reset in between but still goes into failsafe mode within a few seconds of turning her on. I limped to O'Rileys to get my codes and I got a P0122, P0222, P1224, and P1229. I've left a VM with Will and am awaiting his call back. This is so frustrating :-( Any other advice of suggestions? Thanks guys! :-)

 

Shendricks - I feel your pain! Are you saying that you get Failsafe just by starting the car before you even drive it?

These are related, if you find the major issue the others disappear, usually. It seems to me that these all somehow relate to the TB: Connections, TPS, etc.

P0122 is Throttle Position Sensor voltage low. TPS to ECM circuit open, TPS failure.

P1229 - Electronic throttle control circuit.
Probably the usual suspects either a crack in the breather pipe, dirty MAF sensor or dirty contacts on the throttle body connectors.

P1224 - Manufacturer Contrl Fuel Air Metering

Have you not plugged something back in?

The P1224 is interesting possible causes include:
-Throttle adaptations not performed after battery disconnect - (after trying a hard reset let the car do it's adaptations and idle for 10 minutes).

-TPS disconnected or faulty - check the connections again on the TB

-TPS to ECM open circuit/high resistance.

-Throttle motor power relay failure...
etc etc...

There are two other connectors at the throttle body - Throttle Position Motor and Pedal Position Sensor... probably wouldn't hurt to clean these connectors again too, just in case. ALSO: make sure your throttle cable is not adjusted too tight and holding the throttle plate partially open.

If you feel you have checked all of this more than once, I'd push back on ASI.

__________________

 

Spoke with Will @ ASI and we've came to a conclusion to send my TB back in and he's personally going to take care of it. It's sad that I have to wait more but they're really nice and definitely stand by their word. I'll let you guys know how it works out when I get it back. Thank you everyone for all the great assistance. This forum rocks! ;-)

 

OK guys got my throttle body back yesterday and installed it today. I reset the computer and made sure everything was buttoned up. I go and start her up and she idled perfect for about 10 minutes. I turn her off and then back on and within seconds I get the same old failsafe mode...... Sooooo sad. I'm so lost on what to do now. Will from ASI seemed confident that this time it would work great. Im not sure what to do, any help would be great. Thanks

 

WD-40 is a great temporary lubricant (like LPS-2, etc)...not so much, in my experience, as a deoxidizer or contact cleaner. Not criticizing, Sean.

If you want to clean contacts, you need something that will cut through the oxides that form (especially, it seems, on wiring in cars) when you have 1) active metals that form resistive oxides such as tin or copper, and 2) dissimilar metal (or alloys) contact and acidic atmosphere conditions.

I think, harking back to experience with BL- and other wiring looms of the Isles, what you end up with is multiple types of metal in close contact to each other: copper wires with tin plated spade lugs connected to brass connections. Yikes. Good example is the early 2-fuse block that was used in a number of 60s British cars...copper wire with a male spade steel riveted to a tin fuse holder. YIKES. High resistance + 12V = melting and letting the Lucas Patented Smoke out of the wires. Dissimilar metal corrosion can do strange things.

New cars are just as prone; hence the watertight (or resistant) connector bodies, dielectric grease, etc. All in an attempt to keep the electrolytic action of acidic moisture from causing a reaction between contact surfaces...for a time. The earliest models of these cars are now 16 years old. Nothing lasts forever. Add heat/cooling cycles, and it's a wonder they work at all. The engine compartment is not a friendly environment.

So, what I've found, when faced with this, is try the simple things first (clean, tighten, relubricate, reconnect, test) before hacking wires and recrimping on new connectors (hint: the crimp tools you buy for $5. (or 5 pounds) can't do the right job that the hydraulic press tools did at the factory; good tools cost money, but it's money well spent).

So...unplug the connector. Check for off-color. Clean the surface (there are tools, not that expensive, that are specifically made to clean and dress flat and round contacts), spray a good deoxidizer such as Deoxit on to flush and clean, ensure the contacts are tight, apply a LIGHT coat of dielectric grease, reconnect.

99% of the time...that will resolve the issue.

The other 1%? That's an issue for another time. (Having built wiring harnesses for everything from satellites to aircraft to radio stations to cars, there's a lot of techniques that cross between the professions...).

Just my $.02.

 

I have not had ACS with or without limb mode, since I changed the orginal plastic vacum tube, that is connected under throttle body. It goes both valve cover and evaporator valve also. I cutted it near connectors and put rubber hoses instead. I donīt know how these are arranged on XJR, but vacum leak could be one broblem.
(I was also low with gearbox oil).
One day You will get it right.
Regards Eero

 

Thank you for the feedback! @ bdboyle I was unable to find deoxit at the parts store so I used crc electric connector cleaner. Did that last night and am going to try and get her running this afternoon. @ FinJag, I'll replace the breather hose as well and see if that works. Thank you everyone I really appreciate it! Update will follow.....

 

FinJag, or anyone else do you have any pics of the hose that was replaced? I also cleaned the connections to no avail still not working but the contacts seem dull looking so not sure if there sill oxidized. Could I use a wire brush or maybe fine sandpaper? Thx guys for all the help.