01 XJR S
#1
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found a 01 XJR supercharged for 12k. 95k miles looks cherry. does the price sound right? what would be the possible situation on the tensioners? with that many miles possibly fixed already, made with the metal parts?
Vin is: SAJDA15B71MF25215. i read somewhere on here that you can check the vin number to know if it had the upgraded tensioners. does someone know how to check the numbers?
thanks in advance
Vin is: SAJDA15B71MF25215. i read somewhere on here that you can check the vin number to know if it had the upgraded tensioners. does someone know how to check the numbers?
thanks in advance
#2
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to give you a comparison, I paid 12 for an 02 XJ sport (the XJ8 but with XJR suspension and body cues) with 60K in March.
an 01 is going to need tensioners done, at best they are gen 2, still not all metal. My 02 needs them done.
someone else will have to comment, but I beleiev 01.5 is when they stopped using nikasil.
an 01 is going to need tensioners done, at best they are gen 2, still not all metal. My 02 needs them done.
someone else will have to comment, but I beleiev 01.5 is when they stopped using nikasil.
#3
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I just upgraded the secondary tensioners on my 01 XJR w/ 50K miles to 3rd gen metal ones. The original ones looked brand new, barely a scratch on the guides. I think the tensioner issues comes down to maintainance (read: 5k oil changes). Anyway, I paid 17 or 18k for my 01 XJR with 45k.
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Informative answers for sure, here's a little more specificity:
Engine # 00 08 18 **** is the end of Nikasil
Engine # 01 08 13 **** is the end of exploding second gererationsecondary tensioners
The engine numbers are date codes, year/month/day/hour/minute
VIN and vehicle build date can be used onlyas approximates, later 2000 in the first case andlater 2002 in the second as you have already read.
Engine number on 2001 models is stamped on a verticalrib on the left side of the cylinder block, viewed from underneath, roughly above the steering rack pinion housing.
I occasionally buy and sell late model Jaguars, and I watch the market vigilantly. Myfeeling is that 12K is high for an example with that many miles of service. Good hunting!
Engine # 00 08 18 **** is the end of Nikasil
Engine # 01 08 13 **** is the end of exploding second gererationsecondary tensioners
The engine numbers are date codes, year/month/day/hour/minute
VIN and vehicle build date can be used onlyas approximates, later 2000 in the first case andlater 2002 in the second as you have already read.
Engine number on 2001 models is stamped on a verticalrib on the left side of the cylinder block, viewed from underneath, roughly above the steering rack pinion housing.
I occasionally buy and sell late model Jaguars, and I watch the market vigilantly. Myfeeling is that 12K is high for an example with that many miles of service. Good hunting!
#5
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Dragon,
As luck would have it, a car just showed up on a VERY popular auction site tonight:
2001 XJR, 86K miles, Black/ oatmeal, inDestin, Florida, private owner, title clear, VIN is listed so you can run a Carfax.
I don't know the car, the owner, or what the outcome will be. Nor will I be a bidder. It just looked to me like a good comp to the one you are considering.
Bids open at $9,000., that could mean he'll sell for $9001. or that he's holding out for $15,000. Watch the auction, and you'll see what the rest of the country thinks it's worth.
Even if it doesn't make the hidden reserve, watch what bidders with at least a moderate amount of feedback are willing to offer, and the final serious bid will give you a yardstick to measure with. My guess is that it won't bring $12K, and might not make reserve at that price.
This is a buyer's market. So much so, it's a little scary.
As luck would have it, a car just showed up on a VERY popular auction site tonight:
2001 XJR, 86K miles, Black/ oatmeal, inDestin, Florida, private owner, title clear, VIN is listed so you can run a Carfax.
I don't know the car, the owner, or what the outcome will be. Nor will I be a bidder. It just looked to me like a good comp to the one you are considering.
Bids open at $9,000., that could mean he'll sell for $9001. or that he's holding out for $15,000. Watch the auction, and you'll see what the rest of the country thinks it's worth.
Even if it doesn't make the hidden reserve, watch what bidders with at least a moderate amount of feedback are willing to offer, and the final serious bid will give you a yardstick to measure with. My guess is that it won't bring $12K, and might not make reserve at that price.
This is a buyer's market. So much so, it's a little scary.
#6
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To me, there is a big difference between buying a car at an online auction and buying one in person. I would pay way less for an auction car since there is no way to be sure it'sa good buy. I feel that auctions don't show the true value of the car. These are prices being paid byfolks willing togamble money on cars that are not tested personally, they try to hold down theprice to cover their exposure. It may be popular but it doesn't make sense to me as a personal car purchase method.
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