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Morning.
Got it !
Needed a little more heat and I really had to bend back the clips more than I was comfortable doing, the heat helped... Then I put a tie wrap back on those 2 locking tabs so it would cool in or close to the original position.
Morning. Got it !Needed a little more heat and I really had to bend back more than I was comfortable doing the heat helped... Then I put a tie wrap back on those 2 locking tabs so it would cool in or close to the original position.
Just wondering Has anyone Flushed there transmission this way on there Jaguars??
This how i done it on my volvo and it does completely Flush the transmission.. 210K and still going.
I see the 2 transmission lines on the right side of the jag,.. I think it could work...
I've never worked on or even rode in a Volvo, so this is new to me.
I guess if your patient enough to do that process? But I'm curious what other responses may entail....
Be sure to keep Mint Sauce away from the fluid...lol
Hi there HH..
I Don't see why it wouldn't work... It's the only way I see of flushing the entire transmission.
Short of dropping the transmission.
my thinking is drain the pan replace the same amount i get out, do 1 flush then drop the pan and replace the filter and keep flushing until the fluid looks clean..
Just looking and things to do to this PITA.
Now I have to replace 2 of my 3 touque wrenches, I loan them to a good friend this passed winter so he could help his son out, I got them back last night, the 1/4 drive is broken ,Ratchet just spins.. The 3/8 drive isn't seem right at 20 lbs I can snapped a 15 mm bolt without it clicking. Like they say never loan out tools,cars,motorcycles,wife's they never come back the same...ugh....
Poor little Bob,aka Mint sauce. .
He may be a part of my food chain if things keep going like they are....
today's plan is to drop the oil pan, clean that up maybe hit it with a little paint.
draining through the transmission cooler is usually the way to go with most aisins that don’t have any replaceable filters.
only tricky thing is that the jag doesn’t have a dipstick like the volvo. you have to wait till the trans pan is about 90f or warm to the touch, undo the fill plug with the engine running and then pump some more until it drips out and put the plug back on.
Hi there XALTY.
I was thinkin about that. My thought was to temporarily use a nylon fitting easy enough to rethread to what I need and attached a hose to it and up to the top of the engine bay. Once I know it's at the correct level I'll only be replacing what pumps out.?
Sounds ok in my head...lol
Hey HH
Little Bob is like having a puppy in the park he gets a lot of attention when I walk him Thu wally world or Tractor Supply.
I tell anyone at the store that stop me from bringing him in he's a therapy lamb in training.
I get the FU look and I keep walking.
Hello Everyone , Hope everyone is staying Healthy.
Back on the car again...
New Question- when tighten the VVT and the Spocket Which do you Torque down 1st?
Also the Vacuum line from the Brake Booster to Intake Manifold the plastic locking ring fell apart i found replacements for different model jags
but not for the 2001 xj8 {x308} are they that different in size.?
Back on the car again... the Vacuum line from the Brake Booster to Intake Manifold the plastic locking ring fell apart i found replacements for different model jags but not for the 2001 xj8 {x308} are they that different in size.?
Isn't this the only vacuum line from the brake booster to the intake? (MNC5910BE)
yes that's the only line... but i only need the locking ring that fits to the bottom of the throttle body...I found kits for different models. just none for my car
dont know if there all the same size... It a 2 piece kit Brass insert and the Black plastic piece that locks the line in place.
That whole line is Big $$$.... i have no problem cementing in place it is a vacuum line....
Im still waiting on one heater hose ... order it on the 26th 2 day shipping and now im told by friday.... It kinda ok gives me a chance to rest my neck.
Yes Thats it!!
I contacted SNG waiting for a reply...
Ah, didn't pay much attention to it when I did mine as the vacuum line just slipped in there, I did actaully wonder how the hose was held/retained, but as it is a vacuum pipe I figured that as it was a reasonably snug fit it would be fine, and it has been.
I don't see the part listed on the microfishe of the throttle body, but it sounds like you have investigated further and at least found the part, or something resembling the part.
This is why it pays to ask...
Blackonyx. Wrote- 115 - 125 NM for both bolts. Maybe that's on his motor..?
Thanks CK. 1) Fit wedge tool (or screw driver) between primary timing inner guide (curved) and tensioner. Primary timing chain should be tight. 2) Position chain tensioning tool 303-532 to the exhaust camshaft 3)
This is why it pays to ask...Blackonyx. Wrote- 115 - 125 NM for both bolts. Maybe that's on his motor..?Thanks CK.
MrJ, yes, Blackonyx's motor is an earlier A26 motor with VVT, (variable valve timing) but not the CVVT (continuously variable valve timing) of the A27 motor, and so the VVT units are different and have different bolts, the later type (like yours) are hollow and must be torqued to the the lesser 62-66ftlbs. In fact the manual recommends a two stage torque sequence of initially 22-29ftlbs, then 62-66ftlbs.
03-26-2020, 09:42 AM
