1998 Jaguar XJ8
#1
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Hello, new here and have a XJ8, so far I've put a new tranny and some motor mounts and some engine work. Now it has a ticking noise like the timing chain and when i redid the motor mounts and tranny the guy said he saw plastic pieces in the oil pan. If i need a new chain which kit(everything) is the best to get? Also have oil in the tube vent that goes into the valvecover from the intake, its cracked BTW? Im also losing coolant, thermostat?. And one last thing
my computer keeps sayin trunk open, battery not charging, etc how can i fix that? Thanks
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#2
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Welcome to the wonderful world of Jaguar . . . and to the forum!
Let's see:
Cam timing chain noise is better described as 'rattle' rather than 'ticking'. Might be the VVT's which is the source of a common 'ticking' complaint. Heavier weight oil or an oil additive such as RESTORE is the usual solution.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...writeup-54805/
The 2000 - 2002 Lincoln LS used the Jaguar engine, as did the Thunderbird. The Ford/Lincoln parts counter has proved to be the best source of parts. Here are the parts numbers:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/j...34/#post330655
Oil in the full load breather tube is a sign of compression blowby and there is not much to be done except maybe the RESTORE suggestion above. A compression test will tell the tale. Do check the part load breather tube on the other valve cover. It tends to close up. Clean with a 3/32nd inch drill bit held in a pair of vice grips.
Cracked filter to throttle body duct is a common problem that can be fixed with electrical tape tightly wrapped around a carefully cleaned duct. I have put many miles on Volvo's and the previous Jaguar with that fix. A new duct is about $200.
Replacing the thermostat is a great place to start with a new used car but a rented pressure tester is the best way to look for a leak.
The trunk latch has a micro switch that is probably that issue.
Battery not charging is job for a free charging system test at a local auto parts store unless you are familiar with using a volt meter. With the engine running the battery voltage should be a little over 14 volts. If not, probably the alternator.
Cleaning up all the little problems is a fun part of owning these cars, at least for me. Enjoy.
Let's see:
Cam timing chain noise is better described as 'rattle' rather than 'ticking'. Might be the VVT's which is the source of a common 'ticking' complaint. Heavier weight oil or an oil additive such as RESTORE is the usual solution.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...writeup-54805/
The 2000 - 2002 Lincoln LS used the Jaguar engine, as did the Thunderbird. The Ford/Lincoln parts counter has proved to be the best source of parts. Here are the parts numbers:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/j...34/#post330655
Oil in the full load breather tube is a sign of compression blowby and there is not much to be done except maybe the RESTORE suggestion above. A compression test will tell the tale. Do check the part load breather tube on the other valve cover. It tends to close up. Clean with a 3/32nd inch drill bit held in a pair of vice grips.
Cracked filter to throttle body duct is a common problem that can be fixed with electrical tape tightly wrapped around a carefully cleaned duct. I have put many miles on Volvo's and the previous Jaguar with that fix. A new duct is about $200.
Replacing the thermostat is a great place to start with a new used car but a rented pressure tester is the best way to look for a leak.
The trunk latch has a micro switch that is probably that issue.
Battery not charging is job for a free charging system test at a local auto parts store unless you are familiar with using a volt meter. With the engine running the battery voltage should be a little over 14 volts. If not, probably the alternator.
Cleaning up all the little problems is a fun part of owning these cars, at least for me. Enjoy.
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Jomax (06-17-2011)
#3
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Jomax:
the key here is that you have plastic in the oil pan; That comes from ONLY one place. I would not crank it again until I got the tensioners checked and or changed. With the noise and the pieces, you almost certainly have one or more chain tensioners failing. If the timing chain jumops due to the tensioner failure (which is fairly likely if the failed tensioner is a secondary tensioner), then the chance of bending valves and requiring rebuildng the head is very luikely. And if you have to pay someone to do that, it usually costs about the value of the car to repair. The price to repair the secondary tensioners is much less.
the key here is that you have plastic in the oil pan; That comes from ONLY one place. I would not crank it again until I got the tensioners checked and or changed. With the noise and the pieces, you almost certainly have one or more chain tensioners failing. If the timing chain jumops due to the tensioner failure (which is fairly likely if the failed tensioner is a secondary tensioner), then the chance of bending valves and requiring rebuildng the head is very luikely. And if you have to pay someone to do that, it usually costs about the value of the car to repair. The price to repair the secondary tensioners is much less.
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Jomax (06-17-2011)
#4
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Welcome to the wonderful world of Jaguar . . . and to the forum!
Let's see:
Cam timing chain noise is better described as 'rattle' rather than 'ticking'. Might be the VVT's which is the source of a common 'ticking' complaint. Heavier weight oil or an oil additive such as RESTORE is the usual solution.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...writeup-54805/
The 2000 - 2002 Lincoln LS used the Jaguar engine, as did the Thunderbird. The Ford/Lincoln parts counter has proved to be the best source of parts. Here are the parts numbers:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/j...34/#post330655
Oil in the full load breather tube is a sign of compression blowby and there is not much to be done except maybe the RESTORE suggestion above. A compression test will tell the tale. Do check the part load breather tube on the other valve cover. It tends to close up. Clean with a 3/32nd inch drill bit held in a pair of vice grips.
Cracked filter to throttle body duct is a common problem that can be fixed with electrical tape tightly wrapped around a carefully cleaned duct. I have put many miles on Volvo's and the previous Jaguar with that fix. A new duct is about $200.
Replacing the thermostat is a great place to start with a new used car but a rented pressure tester is the best way to look for a leak.
The trunk latch has a micro switch that is probably that issue.
Battery not charging is job for a free charging system test at a local auto parts store unless you are familiar with using a volt meter. With the engine running the battery voltage should be a little over 14 volts. If not, probably the alternator.
Cleaning up all the little problems is a fun part of owning these cars, at least for me. Enjoy.
Let's see:
Cam timing chain noise is better described as 'rattle' rather than 'ticking'. Might be the VVT's which is the source of a common 'ticking' complaint. Heavier weight oil or an oil additive such as RESTORE is the usual solution.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...writeup-54805/
The 2000 - 2002 Lincoln LS used the Jaguar engine, as did the Thunderbird. The Ford/Lincoln parts counter has proved to be the best source of parts. Here are the parts numbers:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/j...34/#post330655
Oil in the full load breather tube is a sign of compression blowby and there is not much to be done except maybe the RESTORE suggestion above. A compression test will tell the tale. Do check the part load breather tube on the other valve cover. It tends to close up. Clean with a 3/32nd inch drill bit held in a pair of vice grips.
Cracked filter to throttle body duct is a common problem that can be fixed with electrical tape tightly wrapped around a carefully cleaned duct. I have put many miles on Volvo's and the previous Jaguar with that fix. A new duct is about $200.
Replacing the thermostat is a great place to start with a new used car but a rented pressure tester is the best way to look for a leak.
The trunk latch has a micro switch that is probably that issue.
Battery not charging is job for a free charging system test at a local auto parts store unless you are familiar with using a volt meter. With the engine running the battery voltage should be a little over 14 volts. If not, probably the alternator.
Cleaning up all the little problems is a fun part of owning these cars, at least for me. Enjoy.
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#5
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Jomax:
the key here is that you have plastic in the oil pan; That comes from ONLY one place. I would not crank it again until I got the tensioners checked and or changed. With the noise and the pieces, you almost certainly have one or more chain tensioners failing. If the timing chain jumops due to the tensioner failure (which is fairly likely if the failed tensioner is a secondary tensioner), then the chance of bending valves and requiring rebuildng the head is very luikely. And if you have to pay someone to do that, it usually costs about the value of the car to repair. The price to repair the secondary tensioners is much less.
the key here is that you have plastic in the oil pan; That comes from ONLY one place. I would not crank it again until I got the tensioners checked and or changed. With the noise and the pieces, you almost certainly have one or more chain tensioners failing. If the timing chain jumops due to the tensioner failure (which is fairly likely if the failed tensioner is a secondary tensioner), then the chance of bending valves and requiring rebuildng the head is very luikely. And if you have to pay someone to do that, it usually costs about the value of the car to repair. The price to repair the secondary tensioners is much less.
#6
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I would hope that the $2800 was for both parts and labor for the primary and secondary tensioners guides and chains. Otherwise run away fast.
Most folks just replace the secondary tensioners and not even the chains. The higher heat of the head apparently contributes to the much higher failure rate of the upper tensioners. And the chains rarely fail except due to the tensioner chain slipper breaking off and getting caught in the chain/sprocket.
Who replaced the alternator? What is the battery voltage with the engine off and the headlights on? What is the battery voltage with the engine running?
The best prices I have found for the tensioners/chains/bolts is the internet parts counters of various Ford/Lincoln dealers. Felpro has the gasket set for the Lincoln LS/Thunderbird for less than $40, half, or less, the cost of any Jaguar parts source.
The trunk can wait until you get everything else sorted.
Most folks just replace the secondary tensioners and not even the chains. The higher heat of the head apparently contributes to the much higher failure rate of the upper tensioners. And the chains rarely fail except due to the tensioner chain slipper breaking off and getting caught in the chain/sprocket.
Who replaced the alternator? What is the battery voltage with the engine off and the headlights on? What is the battery voltage with the engine running?
The best prices I have found for the tensioners/chains/bolts is the internet parts counters of various Ford/Lincoln dealers. Felpro has the gasket set for the Lincoln LS/Thunderbird for less than $40, half, or less, the cost of any Jaguar parts source.
The trunk can wait until you get everything else sorted.
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Jomax (06-18-2011)
#7
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I remeber a report a long time ago of a problem with a particuler brand or batch of replacement alternators that all showed a charging fault indication to the car, although they charged fine. It apparently had to do with a certain replacement internal voltage regulator that did not properly report the fault to the Jaguarr electronics.
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#8
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I would hope that the $2800 was for both parts and labor for the primary and secondary tensioners guides and chains. Otherwise run away fast.
Most folks just replace the secondary tensioners and not even the chains. The higher heat of the head apparently contributes to the much higher failure rate of the upper tensioners. And the chains rarely fail except due to the tensioner chain slipper breaking off and getting caught in the chain/sprocket.
Who replaced the alternator? What is the battery voltage with the engine off and the headlights on? What is the battery voltage with the engine running?
The best prices I have found for the tensioners/chains/bolts is the internet parts counters of various Ford/Lincoln dealers. Felpro has the gasket set for the Lincoln LS/Thunderbird for less than $40, half, or less, the cost of any Jaguar parts source.
The trunk can wait until you get everything else sorted.
Most folks just replace the secondary tensioners and not even the chains. The higher heat of the head apparently contributes to the much higher failure rate of the upper tensioners. And the chains rarely fail except due to the tensioner chain slipper breaking off and getting caught in the chain/sprocket.
Who replaced the alternator? What is the battery voltage with the engine off and the headlights on? What is the battery voltage with the engine running?
The best prices I have found for the tensioners/chains/bolts is the internet parts counters of various Ford/Lincoln dealers. Felpro has the gasket set for the Lincoln LS/Thunderbird for less than $40, half, or less, the cost of any Jaguar parts source.
The trunk can wait until you get everything else sorted.
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for the timing chains is it worth changing everything so i don't have to do it later? Or is it just a waste of money?
#10
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Jomax:
Your V-8 is an AJ26, which I BELIEVE has a different valve cover gasket kit from the AJ 27 that testpoint was referring to. The tensioners are the same for the three engines, but you will need slightly shorter mounting bolts. I don't remember if the Lincoln os different bore, stroke, or just a rounding error. there is a post from avos that has that somewhere, as I remember.
Your V-8 is an AJ26, which I BELIEVE has a different valve cover gasket kit from the AJ 27 that testpoint was referring to. The tensioners are the same for the three engines, but you will need slightly shorter mounting bolts. I don't remember if the Lincoln os different bore, stroke, or just a rounding error. there is a post from avos that has that somewhere, as I remember.
Last edited by sparkenzap; 06-18-2011 at 09:24 AM.
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Jomax (06-18-2011)
#11
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Sorry 'bout that!
Sparkenzap is correct that the Felpro gasket set will not fit the '98 engine.
Unless you have some symptom of primary chain issues doing the entire set is probably more than you need. While I have not done any statical analysis of failures posted on the forum, primary problems are rare while secondary tensioners issues are common.
Of course, if you are going through the car as a long term restoration project then by all means do all at the same time.
Did you reset the OBDII code (check engine) for the charging after replacing the alternator?
Sparkenzap is correct that the Felpro gasket set will not fit the '98 engine.
Unless you have some symptom of primary chain issues doing the entire set is probably more than you need. While I have not done any statical analysis of failures posted on the forum, primary problems are rare while secondary tensioners issues are common.
Of course, if you are going through the car as a long term restoration project then by all means do all at the same time.
Did you reset the OBDII code (check engine) for the charging after replacing the alternator?
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Jomax (06-18-2011)
#12
#13
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There are usually 'kits' listed on eBay but not at the moment. I think the list of parts linked above has everything you need. Just take it to you friendly Ford dealer.
[edit] The link above only had the secondary tensioners and bolts. See the attachment in the next post for the complete list. You can't add an attachment in edit mode.
[edit] The link above only had the secondary tensioners and bolts. See the attachment in the next post for the complete list. You can't add an attachment in edit mode.
Last edited by test point; 06-18-2011 at 05:26 PM.
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Jomax (06-18-2011)
#15
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#16
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I did the same thing on my daughter's 03 S-type 3.0L...and we've been living with the "batt" light. Actually tried another one from AutoZone about 8 mo. later (lifetime warranty - and I became convinced the pulley wasn't positioned properly when in fact the crank damper was delaminating) and it also has the steady batt light. I'm hoping to get by a wrecking yard and get a real alt. sometime this summer before she goes back to school.
#18
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Like discussed earlier, the AJ26 engine used in the '97 - '98 MY's used a different valve cover gasket than the '99 on AJ27. You will have to buy that from a Jaguar parts supplier. I am unsure about the front cover gasket so you might buy that with the valve cover one. Otherwise the hard parts fit.
Again, note that the quantities of the primary tensioners is wrong. You only need one left and one right.
Again, note that the quantities of the primary tensioners is wrong. You only need one left and one right.
Last edited by test point; 06-19-2011 at 04:45 AM.
#19
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Like discussed earlier, the AJ26 engine used in the '97 - '98 MY's used a different valve cover gasket than the '99 on AJ27. You will have to buy that from a Jaguar parts supplier. I am unsure about the front cover gasket so you might buy that with the valve cover one. Otherwise the hard parts fit.
Again, note that the quantities of the primary tensioners is wrong. You only need one left and one right.
Again, note that the quantities of the primary tensioners is wrong. You only need one left and one right.
#20
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Im confused.. found the timing chain covers gaskets inner and outer
Timing Cover Gasket Outer for the - XJ8, XK8 | eBay
Timing Cover Gasket Inner for the - Jaguar 4.0L V8 | eBay
But it says it fits 98 thru 2002???? In the PDL you gave me Test, are those included and the valve cover gaskets?? Thanks, hope im not being too annoying
Timing Cover Gasket Outer for the - XJ8, XK8 | eBay
Timing Cover Gasket Inner for the - Jaguar 4.0L V8 | eBay
But it says it fits 98 thru 2002???? In the PDL you gave me Test, are those included and the valve cover gaskets?? Thanks, hope im not being too annoying
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