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Crunching noise coming from rear tire after changing rotors, calipers, brake pads, and struts.
There Also seems to be a metal on metal sounds that happens consistently at low to medium speeds, it isn’t a constant sound but you can hear the scrape for a second when the tire makes a full rotation
There is something not correctly done there, ...stopping the video almost as soon as it starts you can see a very bad wear pattern emerging where it should be clean and smooth. The noise is cringe as well.
There is something not correctly done there, ...stopping the video almost as soon as it starts you can see a very bad wear pattern emerging where it should be clean and smooth. The noise is cringe as well.
Your rotor...
This is mine with about 40k on them....
I had noticed the uneven wear too and don’t know why it is doing that. My only clue is that the brake pads are loose or something of the sort, because when I was first installing them the brake pad that clips into the caliper piston would push out with very little force, and the other break pad just seems to be sitting very loosely but I was thinking that when the caliper compresses it would set it into place.
Is it normal for the brake pads to be loose or should they be firmly in place before installing onto rotor?
Check with whom you purchased your pads from. I originally bought from a national brand parts store and they gave me pads for Brembo calipers, mine are standard Jag, and those were way too thick. But it was all their system showed for mine, ...I had to go elsewhere. Check your rotors as well.
Pads should sit cleanly in the guides but snug, they need to move in and out without resistance. Like MS, I question lug tightness, but also check the wheel bearings, double check your work for bolt tightness and such. Did you change your brake fluid and if not, when was the last time it was done?
Check with whom you purchased your pads from. I originally bought from a national brand parts store and they gave me pads for Brembo calipers, mine are standard Jag, and those were way too thick. But it was all their system showed for mine, ...I had to go elsewhere. Check your rotors as well.
Pads should sit cleanly in the guides but snug, they need to move in and out without resistance. Like MS, I question lug tightness, but also check the wheel bearings, double check your work for bolt tightness and such. Did you change your brake fluid and if not, when was the last time it was done?
I had bought Brembo brake pads for the Jaguar calipers.
The pad seems to be able to move probably about a quarter of an inch freely, is that normal?
I hit all the Lug nuts with an impact again and one of them was loose so the rest probably were getting there. I think the aftermarket lug nuts aren’t gettin in deep enough so im going to purchase stock ones somewhere.
After tightening lug nuts the crunching noise did seem to go away but the uneven brake wear is still there.(I will get better pictures when I get back home)
I did not change brake fluid I just added to it when bleeding them since I had to replace calipers aswell. The fluid came out clean so i assume previous owner had done that at some point.
Aftermarket lug nuts generally aren't correct depth wise or recess and there are a couple variants from Jaguar with the variety of wheels available. You have the same Pentas I do so you should have 3/8" from the top of the nut to the top of the inner most part of the lug well. It dishes, so that was the easiest measuring point.
Do not use an impact on your lugs or you can expect to take off a stud. You can bring them snug with it, but torque them properly to 65-75 ft lbs for alloy wheels thereafter. If you use an impact on the proper jag lugs, they will begin to de-laminate because the finish cap is just a finish cover (not removable).
When you say you have a 1/4" of play, how do you mean, between the caliper and shoe before you pumped the cylinders back up or on your end guides? Your end guides should be fitting square in the holder. Do you have your old pads for comparison? It doesn't matter the part, you always do a comparison check before install.
Welsh Jaguar sells oem lugnuts at a decent price. I recommend them, but call them to order as their website had the wrong nuts listed for the X308 when I ordered mine.
Always use some kind hand tool to torq the wheels. Ipact gun will either put them too tight or leave them loose. It depeds in so many things wich way it is. Check the nuts with the old one. Put them against eatch other by the cones and you'll see is there any differences.
It is not un common to have weird wear patterns in discs after first couple of brakings. Pads aren't that straight. Then caliper sliding pins aren't bearings so there is always play. This is why there is so called brake in perioid.
If you are sure that there is no stuff between pads and discs and pads are correct way around. I'd say just drive it casually.
Do not use an impact on your lugs or you can expect to take off a stud. You can bring them snug with it, but torque them properly to 65-75 ft lbs for alloy wheels thereafter. If you use an impact on the proper jag lugs, they will begin to de-laminate because the finish cap is just a finish cover (not removable).
When you say you have a 1/4" of play, how do you mean, between the caliper and shoe before you pumped the cylinders back up or on your end guides? Your end guides should be fitting square in the holder. Do you have your old pads for comparison? It doesn't matter the part, you always do a comparison check before install.
Ah ok didn’t know that I’ll def grab a torque wrench when I get the new lug nuts in
As for the brake pads where I circled in red is where I feel like has too much and compared to yours I’m certain there’s too much. I can’t get a picture of mine at the moment since I’m out of state but I will get a picture asap.
06-19-2024, 08:19 PM
1998 Jaguar XJR Crunching Brake/Suspension sound?
