1998 Jaguar XJR Engine issues
#22
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I’m with RJ and Randy, just condensation.
The cylinder #1 fuel injector you said wasn’t firing... did you ohm out the injector and/or did you check to see if there was power and ground present at the injector? This is usually performed with a noid light. I believe ground is what’s pulsed and power will be constant. Also checking for any corrosion inside the fuel injector and connector would be a starting point.
The cylinder #1 fuel injector you said wasn’t firing... did you ohm out the injector and/or did you check to see if there was power and ground present at the injector? This is usually performed with a noid light. I believe ground is what’s pulsed and power will be constant. Also checking for any corrosion inside the fuel injector and connector would be a starting point.
#24
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Well.... the good side is that the #1 injector is replaceable without pulling the charger and the intercoolers off. I can’t say I’ve ever had to replace any of those side feed injectors before. You’ve been dodging bullets left and right here so far. Let’s hope the test drive goes well for you.
#25
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Just replaced the injector in cylinder 1. Loads of smoke when running initially burning off the oil. Car now idles smoothly. cleared all the codes.
Took it out for a run for 10-15 miles and it will not rev above 3000 to 3500 rpm. No warning lights, check engine lights or restiricted performance message. Scanned using my new Icarsoft 3.0 - nothing shows up.
Also took off the cam covers to check the tensioners - they are plastic with no cracks (150k miles - is that a record?) Just ordered a timing chain kit and will replace them in the next few weeks
Took it out for a second drive - transmission became very noisy then no drive in forward or reverse. Came home on a AAA flat bed, only 4 miles away so not too bad! Transmission seems totally dead with no drive in any gear, infact reverse drifts forward
Will be looking to rebuild or get a good used transmission.
The joy of older cars!
Took it out for a run for 10-15 miles and it will not rev above 3000 to 3500 rpm. No warning lights, check engine lights or restiricted performance message. Scanned using my new Icarsoft 3.0 - nothing shows up.
Also took off the cam covers to check the tensioners - they are plastic with no cracks (150k miles - is that a record?) Just ordered a timing chain kit and will replace them in the next few weeks
Took it out for a second drive - transmission became very noisy then no drive in forward or reverse. Came home on a AAA flat bed, only 4 miles away so not too bad! Transmission seems totally dead with no drive in any gear, infact reverse drifts forward
Will be looking to rebuild or get a good used transmission.
The joy of older cars!
#26
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Just replaced the injector in cylinder 1. Loads of smoke when running initially burning off the oil. Car now idles smoothly. cleared all the codes.
Took it out for a run for 10-15 miles and it will not rev above 3000 to 3500 rpm. No warning lights, check engine lights or restiricted performance message. Scanned using my new Icarsoft 3.0 - nothing shows up.
Also took off the cam covers to check the tensioners - they are plastic with no cracks (150k miles - is that a record?) Just ordered a timing chain kit and will replace them in the next few weeks
Took it out for a second drive - transmission became very noisy then no drive in forward or reverse. Came home on a AAA flat bed, only 4 miles away so not too bad! Transmission seems totally dead with no drive in any gear, infact reverse drifts forward
Will be looking to rebuild or get a good used transmission.
The joy of older cars!
Took it out for a run for 10-15 miles and it will not rev above 3000 to 3500 rpm. No warning lights, check engine lights or restiricted performance message. Scanned using my new Icarsoft 3.0 - nothing shows up.
Also took off the cam covers to check the tensioners - they are plastic with no cracks (150k miles - is that a record?) Just ordered a timing chain kit and will replace them in the next few weeks
Took it out for a second drive - transmission became very noisy then no drive in forward or reverse. Came home on a AAA flat bed, only 4 miles away so not too bad! Transmission seems totally dead with no drive in any gear, infact reverse drifts forward
Will be looking to rebuild or get a good used transmission.
The joy of older cars!
Get used transmission low mileage usually from xk8
Few shop can do transmission rebuild properly
But before that drain fluid and add 2 bottle of anti slip Lucas and any cheap lt71141 fluid see if improve if no time to burn the wallet
#27
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@ stuizzy: Oh no. Your post started so positive and now that...
I bought my X308 with restricted performance, and yes - this was simply the knock sensor(s). My Scanner told me as much, but as there are differences in scanners, maybe you have a scanner, which simply does not highlight the problem at hand - which could be the knock sensor or something else.
When you swap the timing chains (and check in my thread how I did it), note that I am sure that you have VVT - which I do not have. There is this special took for loosening and tightening the sprockets on the cams - I just got away without, but if you have VVT, you should get this tool.
Reg. your transmission: Start with removing the filler plug (...and that is a challenge in itself...:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-flush-265900/
If ATF comes dripping out, then this following idea of mine is void,
But if it does not come dripping out there is a tiny shimmer of hope...: Your issue is that you have no gears at all. I experience that once, when I did something pretty stupid:
I wanted to change the engine oil (on an X-Type). I drained the oil (and as I just did an oil-change very recently, I did not change the oil filter). I then filled about 6 Liter of new engine oil back in... When my wife then wanted to drive the car, it would not budge... (no gears). I then quickly discovered the "problem at hand"...: I did everything in "auto mode", i.e. I did that so often before that I did think I had to switch on my brain..: What I did: I opened the wrong drain plug! I drained the ATF, and then I filled in the engine oil (into the correct filler)... - which meant: I only had about 50% of the ATF (as an ATF drain does not empty the ATF completely), and I had about 12L of engine oil in the engine... - good one...![Wink](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
ANYWAY: This means: If your are very low on ATF, you will not have gears. I would fill up your transmission with ATF first and see, if that does the trick. If it does, do a proper full flush as I did it in my link. Note, there there are also those people, who think that a full ATF flush could damage your transmission. And just in case they are right, make sure to catch the old ATF in a clean tub so that you do have the later option to swap the brand new ATF again for the old ATF...
PS: Note that the car needs to be jacked up leveled (in a save way) with the engine running when you fill in the last bit of ATF to get to the correct level. But I would think that this is not really necessary (the engine running)at the first step, which I recommend above (filling up the ATF to see, if the gears are coming back at all). But then again: maybe it is...
I bought my X308 with restricted performance, and yes - this was simply the knock sensor(s). My Scanner told me as much, but as there are differences in scanners, maybe you have a scanner, which simply does not highlight the problem at hand - which could be the knock sensor or something else.
When you swap the timing chains (and check in my thread how I did it), note that I am sure that you have VVT - which I do not have. There is this special took for loosening and tightening the sprockets on the cams - I just got away without, but if you have VVT, you should get this tool.
Reg. your transmission: Start with removing the filler plug (...and that is a challenge in itself...:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-flush-265900/
If ATF comes dripping out, then this following idea of mine is void,
But if it does not come dripping out there is a tiny shimmer of hope...: Your issue is that you have no gears at all. I experience that once, when I did something pretty stupid:
I wanted to change the engine oil (on an X-Type). I drained the oil (and as I just did an oil-change very recently, I did not change the oil filter). I then filled about 6 Liter of new engine oil back in... When my wife then wanted to drive the car, it would not budge... (no gears). I then quickly discovered the "problem at hand"...: I did everything in "auto mode", i.e. I did that so often before that I did think I had to switch on my brain..: What I did: I opened the wrong drain plug! I drained the ATF, and then I filled in the engine oil (into the correct filler)... - which meant: I only had about 50% of the ATF (as an ATF drain does not empty the ATF completely), and I had about 12L of engine oil in the engine... - good one...
![Wink](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
ANYWAY: This means: If your are very low on ATF, you will not have gears. I would fill up your transmission with ATF first and see, if that does the trick. If it does, do a proper full flush as I did it in my link. Note, there there are also those people, who think that a full ATF flush could damage your transmission. And just in case they are right, make sure to catch the old ATF in a clean tub so that you do have the later option to swap the brand new ATF again for the old ATF...
PS: Note that the car needs to be jacked up leveled (in a save way) with the engine running when you fill in the last bit of ATF to get to the correct level. But I would think that this is not really necessary (the engine running)at the first step, which I recommend above (filling up the ATF to see, if the gears are coming back at all). But then again: maybe it is...
Last edited by Peter_of_Australia; 10-17-2023 at 05:31 PM. Reason: added PS note
#28
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Mobile1, his is an XJR which takes the Mercedes 722.6 transmission and not the ZF5HP24 transmission from a naturally aspirated car.
Stuizzy, I would look for a used transmission from a later year car as an 01’-03’. I’m not entirely sure on the cutoff year but, I seem to recall the earlier version which is what you have, has a more prone to fail Mercedes transmission and I know the later ones had been updated. There’s nothing else that you need from the donor car other than the transmission itself. When you do it, replace the rear main seal and the cap seal under a 17mm Allen plug about 3” above it.
Stuizzy, I would look for a used transmission from a later year car as an 01’-03’. I’m not entirely sure on the cutoff year but, I seem to recall the earlier version which is what you have, has a more prone to fail Mercedes transmission and I know the later ones had been updated. There’s nothing else that you need from the donor car other than the transmission itself. When you do it, replace the rear main seal and the cap seal under a 17mm Allen plug about 3” above it.
#29
#30
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Mobile1, his is an XJR which takes the Mercedes 722.6 transmission and not the ZF5HP24 transmission from a naturally aspirated car.
Stuizzy, I would look for a used transmission from a later year car as an 01’-03’. I’m not entirely sure on the cutoff year but, I seem to recall the earlier version which is what you have, has a more prone to fail Mercedes transmission and I know the later ones had been updated. There’s nothing else that you need from the donor car other than the transmission itself. When you do it, replace the rear main seal and the cap seal under a 17mm Allen plug about 3” above it.
Stuizzy, I would look for a used transmission from a later year car as an 01’-03’. I’m not entirely sure on the cutoff year but, I seem to recall the earlier version which is what you have, has a more prone to fail Mercedes transmission and I know the later ones had been updated. There’s nothing else that you need from the donor car other than the transmission itself. When you do it, replace the rear main seal and the cap seal under a 17mm Allen plug about 3” above it.
I saw gearbox fault because of low fluid many times but that was on the 5hp transmission usually if the fluid low the transmission will act like dead I saw that on 2003 mustang too
#31
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With regard to the transmission, I had done a complete drain and refill with a new filter. This is an early x308 so the torque converter has a drain plug. Once drained I refilled and used the dipstick (from eBay) to get the correct level.
When I removed the pan there were some metal chips, plus the old fluid was black. I may have been optimistic that new fluid would fix the issues. It did run for a few miles before dying
When I removed the pan there were some metal chips, plus the old fluid was black. I may have been optimistic that new fluid would fix the issues. It did run for a few miles before dying
#32
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What's the mileage on your XJR?
Maybe your transmissions problem is one of these cases, which I mentioned before (when I suggested that you keep the old ATF in case there are problems with the new ATF) - one of those cases, some people mention from time to time, even though I cannot fully understand it:
In their opinion it is a bad idea to do an ATF change on a transmission, if the ATF in there is very old and has never been changed before. I cannot explain that issue, but there are threads about that issue. Luckily all my Jags have a max. of 160k km on the clock, which in my opinion is a mileage, when it is definitely time to change the ATF, and it is just not too late yet to do an ATF change...
PS: Meanwhile I scrolled back to the beginning of this thread and saw that your mileage is 150k miles = 241k km... - so yes, if those guys are right that after a certain mileage without doing an ATF change it is simply too late to do one, then this could have been your problem...
Maybe your transmissions problem is one of these cases, which I mentioned before (when I suggested that you keep the old ATF in case there are problems with the new ATF) - one of those cases, some people mention from time to time, even though I cannot fully understand it:
In their opinion it is a bad idea to do an ATF change on a transmission, if the ATF in there is very old and has never been changed before. I cannot explain that issue, but there are threads about that issue. Luckily all my Jags have a max. of 160k km on the clock, which in my opinion is a mileage, when it is definitely time to change the ATF, and it is just not too late yet to do an ATF change...
PS: Meanwhile I scrolled back to the beginning of this thread and saw that your mileage is 150k miles = 241k km... - so yes, if those guys are right that after a certain mileage without doing an ATF change it is simply too late to do one, then this could have been your problem...
Last edited by Peter_of_Australia; 10-18-2023 at 05:30 AM. Reason: added PS
#33
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Just replaced the injector in cylinder 1. Loads of smoke when running initially burning off the oil. Car now idles smoothly. cleared all the codes.
Took it out for a run for 10-15 miles and it will not rev above 3000 to 3500 rpm. No warning lights, check engine lights or restiricted performance message. Scanned using my new Icarsoft 3.0 - nothing shows up.
Also took off the cam covers to check the tensioners - they are plastic with no cracks (150k miles - is that a record?) Just ordered a timing chain kit and will replace them in the next few weeks
Took it out for a second drive - transmission became very noisy then no drive in forward or reverse. Came home on a AAA flat bed, only 4 miles away so not too bad! Transmission seems totally dead with no drive in any gear, infact reverse drifts forward
Will be looking to rebuild or get a good used transmission.
The joy of older cars!
Took it out for a run for 10-15 miles and it will not rev above 3000 to 3500 rpm. No warning lights, check engine lights or restiricted performance message. Scanned using my new Icarsoft 3.0 - nothing shows up.
Also took off the cam covers to check the tensioners - they are plastic with no cracks (150k miles - is that a record?) Just ordered a timing chain kit and will replace them in the next few weeks
Took it out for a second drive - transmission became very noisy then no drive in forward or reverse. Came home on a AAA flat bed, only 4 miles away so not too bad! Transmission seems totally dead with no drive in any gear, infact reverse drifts forward
Will be looking to rebuild or get a good used transmission.
The joy of older cars!
When the AMG trans is noisy it could be low on fluid - pumps clack. Get some of the correct red fluid in and locate a Mercedes Benz trans dipstick so you can check the level, ($10 on Amazon) dipstick is located under the hood opposite side to the engine dipstick and towards the bulkhead.
Maybe a filter and gasket and see how it performs then, generally bomb proof transmissions, worth a go before changing?
#35
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What's the mileage on your XJR?
Maybe your transmissions problem is one of these cases, which I mentioned before (when I suggested that you keep the old ATF in case there are problems with the new ATF) - one of those cases, some people mention from time to time, even though I cannot fully understand it:
In their opinion it is a bad idea to do an ATF change on a transmission, if the ATF in there is very old and has never been changed before. I cannot explain that issue, but there are threads about that issue. Luckily all my Jags have a max. of 160k km on the clock, which in my opinion is a mileage, when it is definitely time to change the ATF, and it is just not too late yet to do an ATF change...
PS: Meanwhile I scrolled back to the beginning of this thread and saw that your mileage is 150k miles = 241k km... - so yes, if those guys are right that after a certain mileage without doing an ATF change it is simply too late to do one, then this could have been your problem...
Maybe your transmissions problem is one of these cases, which I mentioned before (when I suggested that you keep the old ATF in case there are problems with the new ATF) - one of those cases, some people mention from time to time, even though I cannot fully understand it:
In their opinion it is a bad idea to do an ATF change on a transmission, if the ATF in there is very old and has never been changed before. I cannot explain that issue, but there are threads about that issue. Luckily all my Jags have a max. of 160k km on the clock, which in my opinion is a mileage, when it is definitely time to change the ATF, and it is just not too late yet to do an ATF change...
PS: Meanwhile I scrolled back to the beginning of this thread and saw that your mileage is 150k miles = 241k km... - so yes, if those guys are right that after a certain mileage without doing an ATF change it is simply too late to do one, then this could have been your problem...
but now days we have 100k x308 who knows how they drived it ! That's why its wiser to do 1 drain and refill that would be enough then every now n then check the level add fluid if needed believe it or not my 150k miles transmission was saved with very high viscosity fluid now it's been a year yes I drive it weekend but it works
#36
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Nice to see someone else from the area. I live in Kingston, work in Albany and go to Clifton Park here and there to meet with a vendor.
#37
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This is in regards to the transmission for sale. See post #15.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/market/259372
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/market/259372
#38
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I have a 105k mile 2001 XJR transmission from my parts car for my LS swap. Listed here and on eBay. eBay has videos of car driving. I recently shipped an engine to NY for $450. Guessing transmission about half that.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/market/261898
https://www.ebay.com/itm/255679273677
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/market/261898
https://www.ebay.com/itm/255679273677
#39
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have a 105k mile 2001 XJR transmission from my parts car for my LS swap. Listed here and on eBay. eBay has videos of car driving. I recently shipped an engine to NY for $450. Guessing transmission about half that.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/market/261898
https://www.ebay.com/itm/255679273677
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/market/261898
https://www.ebay.com/itm/255679273677
#40
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Thanks for the nudge to stuizy. I'm not trying to turn some large profit, just recoup funds for my project and free up room in my garage. Pretty much everything I've sold on eBay has been listed at the bottom of other's prices for the same part. I've got a perfect rating but figure have to list lower if competing with some business with thousands of sales. It's been kept inside since removed.