The biggest disadvantage to just cranking with WOT is that it takes a while to get the oil distributed, unnecessary use of the starter.

 

Exactly! It takes a fairly long cranking to distribute the oil over the cylinder walls and rings, if you don't put any oil in there manually. So the rings are running up and down, and starving for lubrication. That can't be good, can it? By adding the oil manually, you have way shorter cranking to do (much easier on the starter and the battery!), and as Snyder says,.....compression is up right away. Another thing,.....when this is happening (the "wash" remedy), the engine is COLD, the oil down there is COLD, and it didn't reach all the parts yet (that's why is always a good idea not to take off right away with a cold engine, but wait untill it comes off the "choke"). By injecting the oil, compression is up immediately, install the plugs, and she WILL fire! Let her idle untill she comes off of the higher RPMs, and take off.

But we all have our own ways of doing things,...all kinds of things. I do it this way because it satisfies my logic, but I am not forcing it on anyone. Whatever makes one comfortable,....most of us live in the "free world".

 

Westway- I would like to point out that if your mechanic had just done the oil deal first thing Monday am you would be driving it right now. Not like he has to worry about damaging your car by putting oil in it... Looking forward to your update!

 

I am with everybody who says avoid excess friction by adding oil but the whole procedure takes time. What if you are stuck somewhere? (Rhetorical question).

Bigger question I have is are there other brands of engines that do this? I have never heard of it before. I have also heard that with most modern design engines (1936 and up) the oil "galleries" don't drain when the engine is not running. So cranking the engine does not mean getting the oil all the way from the sump to the lower cylinder walls.

We did a lot of restorations on the old Cadillac V-8's of the 30s and 40s and we actually made a tool to insert into the distributor shaft. We hooked it up to a drilll and would run it a while before putting the distributor back in and starting the engine. Of course those engines were totally dry after we rebuilt them.

Also, when we would find old cars that had not been run for a while, we would change the fluids, put light weight oil in the spark plug holes, put spark plugs with new points, etc. in and then pull the car in gear (even worked with automatic transmissions) behind another car. At about 30-35 mph friction would build on cylinder walls and rings causing them to expand, compression would go up and one by one you could hear each cylinder come back on line.

First time one of the old timers showed me this my teeth nearly fell out of my mouth! I remember we did it on a 1950 Cranbrook that had not run in 25 years.

 

I believe it is due to the Nikasil bores and the ECU programming and or the injectors. My car has the newer style intake manifold with air injection. This may have been to help avert this issue. There is also a TSB for the 98 and 99 MYs, I believe, that calls for a reflash to avoid over fueling. The Nikasil apparently is so slippery oil won't even stick to it.

 

Yep to the re-flash

Yep the air assist on the AJ27 is to aid this and fuel efficiency.

The 4.2 AJ cylinder block has oil jets directed onto the piston backs and liners to keep oil there..

Nikasil is slippy, they also put teflon onto the piston skirts.

Check the black patches on these skirts...

 

Hmm. 3 days no response- any update Westway?

 

Just bumping this for an update...