XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 ) 1997 - 2003

1998 XJ8 Jag with issues

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  #1  
Old 09-24-2013 | 04:21 PM
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Default 1998 XJ8 Jag with issues

Bought a 1998 xj8, love the looks but boy is it becomming a nightmare. Ran great but then the trouble started. Battery started going dead,draw on battery for sure.

Put a test light on battery and cable and pulled every fuse in car to make it go out with no luck.

Yes I took the bulbs out of trunk light and had doors closed when pulling fuses on the heal boards. The only thing that happened was on the left hand heal board the f-9 10 amp fuse dimmed the test light and also the f-18 5 amp fuse also dimmed the test light when I pulled it out. I am baffled.

The first fuse is labled head unit???? and the next was instrament pack???? I don't know what they are.

Now I have been charging the battery and starting my car to keep it running but all of a sudden with a full battery I turn the key and it does nothing , no clicking or anything. could a starter short out and draw the battery?

About to blow my brains out because this is the only car that survived hurricane Sandy and ran great. Any suggestions would be great or where to find a good Jag mechanic in Manahawkin NJ.

Thank you in advance.

By the way I can not even find the starter if anyone knows where it is that would help so I can see if it is getting power to it when I turn the key.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Rob
 

Last edited by JimC64; 09-24-2013 at 08:22 PM. Reason: PLEASE CREATE LINE BREAKS!!
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Old 09-24-2013 | 04:50 PM
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sounds like you have your hands full and are asking yourself why did i buy this thing in the first place? but don't fret to much we have all been there at one point or another. My first question is do you have the car's owners manual?......or possibly a down loaded shop manual....From what you described.....and if you keep on having to charge the battery....your loosing juice somewhere....or you may have fried the battery.....possible on the starter/regulator......the first thing i would do before you possibly make any potential electrical problems worse is to put back everything the way it was...initially...

than get that battery tested.....at auto zone/or advanced auto....you need to have a properly working topped off battery.....my suspicion is that battery is no good...or failing....i went through a similar adventure this summer....my battery was no good....i paid 150...for a top of the line battery...with plenty of cranking capacity.....best investment i made.....electrical problems i was having....re opening closing windows etc. were solved.....try replacing the battery first...see what if any problems remain....than get to a mechanic....
 
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Old 09-24-2013 | 05:18 PM
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I agree with replacing the battery first -- then at least you know what you're starting with.
 
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Old 09-24-2013 | 05:26 PM
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Hi the starter motor is on the left hand side of the engine as you open the bonnet
 
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Old 09-24-2013 | 07:35 PM
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If you disconnect the bulkhead connector that will isolate the draw as well.
 
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Old 09-27-2013 | 03:25 PM
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Default Thanks guys

I have a draw for sure,test light stays on between the negative cable and battery,also load texted the bat after charging it up and it was fine. Need to test the cells next to see if the battery is shorted out. I even tried jumping it with my truck and nothing. Thank you for all your responses. I will keep scraching my head. Car looks cool sitting there though.lol
 
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Old 09-27-2013 | 03:27 PM
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Can you tell me more about this bulkhead connector?
 
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Old 09-27-2013 | 05:24 PM
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A while back, I found a great Youtube on searching for an errant draw on the battery: you might find it (it also may be in a sticky in the Ranger Rover Sport Forum). Bottom line: you need to put your meter in the window and start pulling fuses until you find the circuit causing the issue then disconnect each item on that circuit until it is located. A PITA for sure.

Years ago, I stuck my young son in the trunk of my 2500 BMW and told him to bang on the trunk when the light goes out: the switch had worn a groove in the plastic leaving the light on and a couple of expensive dead batteries in its wake. But you have already pulled that lamp.
 
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Old 09-30-2013 | 04:56 PM
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Cool Thanks

Thanks Jim, this is a tough one. Pulled every fuse with my wife in the trunk and the two fuses I mentioned in my original pot dimmed a little which really confused me. I may have to put a battery swith on the battery to turn it off at night. The strange thing is it won't turn over at all and it always ran well. I still need to lay my eyes on the starter, can not find it.
 
  #10  
Old 09-30-2013 | 04:58 PM
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Thanks and I will look for you tube video....
 
  #11  
Old 09-30-2013 | 06:51 PM
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Rob, did you find the bulkhead connection? If it has gone bad, it could very well be your problem…as it was mine, seemingly overnight.
 
  #12  
Old 10-01-2013 | 10:56 AM
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Default Bulkhead connector

Hi Crosbo, I have no idea what a bulkhead connector is,think I need a repair manual for this car, again I work on fords.
 
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Old 10-01-2013 | 11:41 AM
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Look on the passenger side engine compartment about 12 inches from the firewall. Facing the front of the motor there is a thick wire going to a stud. It will most likely have a rubber boot over it. That is the bulkhead connector. Occasionally via corrosion or becoming loose this connector will begin to stop functioning correctly and many have reported resolving issues by taking it apart, sanding/cleaning it and putting it back together. It is definitely on the "to do" list so you might as well take care of it during the troubleshooting process.
 
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Old 10-01-2013 | 11:42 AM
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Incidentally, the wire goes to the starter so your type of symptoms would point there first.
 
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Old 10-01-2013 | 12:37 PM
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Correct, passenger (right) side, about 12" from the firewall. If you remove the plastic cover with the shallow cubby storage, you will see the backside of the connection. A loose or corroded connection can lead to overheating of the connection and failure of the battery to properly recharge.

Mine came loose and subsequently the battery was not charging correctly, and during starting the poor connection was also overheating. The overheating led to hot connections that melted the firewall plastic that it was passing thru. I had to rebuild and insulate the connection. Once done, the problem that seemed to appear overnight, was solved.

Good luck.
 
  #16  
Old 10-04-2013 | 11:31 AM
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Thumbs up Bulkhead connector

Thank you Dsnyder and Crosbo, this info sounds promising, it did stop over night. Sunday I will get back to this problem. The draw on the battery part, from all the reading I have done maybe there is always a slight draw on the battery and this old battery can not handle it although it took a load test well for a 2007 battery, did not go to weak. Thanks guys back to the hunt for wires. Will let you know.
 
  #17  
Old 10-04-2013 | 01:30 PM
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Wait, you are working with a 6 year old battery? Replace it.
 
  #18  
Old 10-07-2013 | 02:55 PM
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Red face Battery

Originally Posted by dsnyder586
Wait, you are working with a 6 year old battery? Replace it.
Yes I just realized thatafter taking the bracket off, I am getting one tomorrow or as soon as i can. Just don't understand why the battery is testing OK. But u r right I need to start with a fresh one even if that is not the problem, it is sure to screw up very shortly. Bee patiet with me guys, I don't have alot of time to work on it due to rebuiling my home from hurricane Sandy but any chance I get I wil be out there and I will let everyone know what I find. Very thankfull for all the great advice, feel I have a great head start on this and don't feel as discouraged. Thanks Guys....
 
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Old 10-07-2013 | 03:42 PM
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Also, How about some pics?

I *may* be parting a 1998 XJ8 soon and would be willing to send you parts for the cost of shipping to swap around. I'll post something as soon as I know if I am going to buy the salvage.
 
  #20  
Old 10-12-2013 | 01:03 PM
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I am not sure how to put pictures on here.....I will try to figure it out.
 


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