Hi all,

I just purchased an EXCELLENT example of a 100K mi 1998 xj8 with an a-drum issue. Started to drive her home in limp mode and got about 16 miles before I got a low oil pressure light paired with a pop and engine off. I have a line on an AJ27 for a low price- can I just swap the intake cam, timing cover, flex plate on the long block and drop it in? (understanding that I need to change out all of the rest of the parts- intake etc.)

The cost of the donor motor will dictate I use it instead of seeking out an AJ26.

Thanks in advance!
I should add that I have searched, but did not find a post explaining the MINIMUM changeover required to swap and AJ26 with an AJ27.

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-thread-61113/

 

This is great info- however it is for a 4.2L swap from an AJ26 SC- is there info for an AJ26 to AJ27 NA? I am hoping that I do not have to remove the heads to do the swap...

On a side note, I took off a valve cover and lo and behold there was a level of sludge I have never before seen... the engine was doomed to die whoever drove it next. I will be sure to look inside next time before I purchase my next one.

I seriously have never seen that much muck in an engine.

 

The entire VVT system needs to be swapped on the front of the engine.
If the VVT unit will bolt to the right intake cam you can leave it there to save resetting the valve lash.
The left cam needs to be swapped because of the single sensor lobe so the valve lash will need to reset.

As you state the flex plate needs to be swapped and the engine oil temp sensor can be ignored. There are EXTRA things on the AJ27 so just put both engines side-by-side and make the AJ26 look like it fits!!

bob gauff

 

Thanks Bob- can I use the new sump/oil pump etc? And one more Q- do I have to change out the timing cover?

I plan on taking pics of the process for anyone else who may try this.

 

If you follow Bob's lead you'll find the vvt's come out of the tops of the cam covers on the 27, you'll need to change the timing cover as well as the vvt's/cam covers 26.

The oil pump/bedplate/sump/pickup depends on the 27's spec - as the primary chains on the later ones are different (morse style)

 

Perfect- thanks Sean!

I am looking at August for this project- if all goes well I am hoping to line up all of my parts and do it over a three day weekend. (Pull Engine and Tranny Friday, replace A-drum and swap parts on the engine Saturday then drop it in Sunday.)

 

If you actually meet that schedule you will be one speed-demon of a mechanic!

 

Thanks Alvin!

My son (15) and replaced both heads in a 2003 Land rover Disco in 13 hours flat start to finish and that was our first time working on a Land Rover. If all goes according to plan I should be able to do it in three FULL days. I am not including the prep work which should give me the edge on time. (line up tools needed, print out how to, label parts bags)

 

You, sir are an optimist. You can get your hands and arms into the Disco engine compartment, and other than the coils, you can get to the sensors and connectors. Not so, the Jag.

 

Thanks for the sobering insight Spark- I will "retool" my timeline and plan for two weekends (three day on the first) to complete. Probably a better idea anyway since I may (will?) run across the need for parts that break during the process and that is hard on a Sunday.. I DO have most of a 1998 XJR motor still sitting in my garage (including peripherals) so that may help a little.

 

Is it possible to remove the engine and leave the A/C and power steering pump hoses all connected?

I would prefer not to disturb those systems when R&Ring the motor/trans.

 

you'll have more issues trying to keep complete and undamaged as both have coolers, best to recharge and fill with new fluid once back together.

 

Thanks Sean, that makes sense-

 

Ok, Engine and trans are all but ready to be removed- the transmission support was frozen onto the transmission, but with a little persuasion and heat, it relented- that took two hours. Other than that fiasco the total time is about 6 hours. I still need to remove the oil tubes from the engine, but after that it should come right out. Still trying to figure out how I am going to tilt it to bring the transmission out from the tunnel, I was thinking a tie-down that I can adjust? Looking forward to getting this thing switched out next weekend (hopefully) and maybe even started and running by next Sunday. (I plan to do some more work over the week)

 

It's best to have the car on stands x4 - then you'll have enough clearance to put a trolley jack under the transmission, as you jack the engine up on the crane/hoist, you can help the gearbox along on the jack
Once the engine is up and clear of the front crossmember, lift the back of the trans leveling the whole thing and pull the engine crane forward and clear of the car.

Sounds simple and it is if you've got a flat hard floor...

 

Thanks Sean,

In your pic it looks like the engine and trans are balanced on the hook eyes of the head, since the rope seems to have slack- is it?

 

The slack is because the back of the trans is resting on the cross-member - the car was scrap.

If you look at the rope, it supports the rear of the engine and trans at an angle that lets you role it out.

Undo the the trans cross-member and prop bolts (with the gearbox supported by a trolley jack)

Next is let the engine mount bolts go, check all hoses and electrical connections are free and start lifting, the engine will rotate back because of the weight of the trans so lower the trolley jack, you can do this is stages.

You'll have to pull the engine up quite high to clear the front cross-member, so dropping the front end off the stands even letting the air out of tires could help with clearance.

Once the engine is up and clear of the bodyshell you can lift the trans over the front, it's a 2 man job so make sure you lad and you've had a good hearty breakfast!

 

Ok, after 4 hours Sunday and two today, the engine and trans are out and split.

I will be removing the bellhousing on the Trans tomorrow to see about the A-drum, and then removing the parts needed for the later engine swap.

I DO have an extra intake cam from a 1998 XJR- Can I use it on the newer engine (it has the single fin at the end of the cam) so that I can keep the 98 motor together?

(I am looking into SLOWLY rebuilding it and eventually dropping it back in at a later date (a year or so) I think I can get the removal down to about 5-6 hours if I just unhook the main connector instead of each one. If I left the transmission in situ it would be easier.

And My son and I did have a hearty breakfast- the work went smoothly, patience and a slow pace made for a successful removal.

 

Transmission- removed the bell housing and took out the A-Drum sure enough, it is missing a piece from the lip about 2-3 inches long and about 5mm wide. I can't seem to find the debris though. No other damage that I can find either other than the area the A drum lip spins against- it shows some distortion ( I presume from the debris being ground down into it)- bearings look good as well. I am going to replace the A drum, gasket and (maybe)replace the TC seal then call it a win.