I want to post a great big THANKS to all of the contributors for advice for the XJ posts. I had a CAT marking her territory with leaks, rattling on start up and just generally being mean due to all of the neglect from the fellow I bought her from.
I spent countless hours reading and reviewing the information on the Forums for insight into what I was getting myself into. I wanted to be confident in the undertaking.
The information was priceless, and I gained a better understanding of my CAT. I also gained an appreciation for the term GORILLA mechanic. The following is my tale of woe and the eventual success due to all of the contributors of advice.
The first signs of problems were the Cam Cover oil leaks at the back lower bolts on both banks. No problem new gaskets!
The next problem occured while awaiting the gaskets. The upper radiator hose came off while driving. Ordered new Thermostat Housing Kit.
While awaiting parts arrival I read about the start up rattle, (which I had) all the time hoping once i pulled the Cam Covers I would not find the dreaded RED tensioners.
The parts finally arrived and the CAT was headed into the repair stall. I pulled off the Cam Covers and immediately discovered that some GORRILLA had used Silicone Sealant and a lot of muscle to stop previous oil leaks and causing CRACKS at every other bolt hole. (well new cam cover time).
I was happy to see the bright shiny metal CHAIN TENSIONERS, whew what a relief. That is until i checked the chains for tension and found the right bank chain slack (start up rattle solved). Back to ordering parts. I faithfully followed the TIE WRAP method instructions and the installation was a success until I went to torque everything down. I had read all of the cautions about not over tightening in the aluminum so set the old torque wrench at half of the recommended torque and tightened away. Unfortunately the nice click I heard wasn't the torque wrench telling everything was fine but it was the bolts breaking at 1/2 low torque value. BACK to ordering parts. I went to the dealer for new bolts and discovered that they list 2 differents ones for the engine. The parts guy asked do you want the 35MM or 40MM. I thought back to all of the advice I had read and 35 kept coming up so a went for the 35MM. Got back home and drilled out the broken ones and measured the holes and the tensioner thickness and found one hole at 40MM and one at 39mm. Glad I remembered the FORUMS advice 35MM.
I want to give a great big thanks to all of the people who have spent the time to offer their advice. I also want to thank the moderators who do a wonderful job of keeping all of this organized.
For those of you reading this and contemplating undertaking repairs to your CAT, I recommend GO FOR IT. There are some really awesome people here to help.
Thanks Vern

 

So what was the cause of the right bank chain being slack, given that the car evidently had the newer tensioners?

 

The inner spring has probably collapsed. I was able to compress it and extend it with my finger. The oil check valve wasn't holding either, probably causing the rattle on start up. When I pulled the pin on the new one the chain immediately went tight.
I spent a lot of time fixing the years of abuse from the previous owner.

 

I appreciate your topic , sorry to hear what you are dealing with . I wish you have many happy driving

 

Avern1 - glad to hear that you're cat issues are being resolved. This past weekend I was driving down the highway and noticed that my temp guage was at middle (normally below on highway drives), so I pulled over and took a look under the hood. I noticed that my upper radiator hose had moved and was coming off. That was weird because I had tightened the hose clamp only a month earlier. The housing is the plastic sort, and I just ordered the aluminum upgrade kit (minus thermostat) from Ebay ($52.20 free shipping).

As I've been told many time on this forum, "change your secondary tensioners", I will finally be doing that as the same time I put in the new thermostat housing. I've always had a light, but constant diesel tapping coming from what seems to be the middle rear of the engine, so it's time to take care of some issues - one at a time.

By the way Avern1, if you replaced your thermostat, what brand did you use when you installed your upgrade kit?

Keep 'em purring!

 

In addition to the oil leaks I was chasing I too had the upper radiator hose actually pop off. I bought the aluminum one from EBAY just like you did. I don't know if you are aware or not but the intake manifold has to come off to change the tower. When I was taking my apart I also found the the coolant pipe to the front was broken at the hose connection just like the thermostat housing. I bought the pipe from JAGBITS for somewhere around $60.00 which included all of the gaskets. They also have the correct O-Rings for the manifold for about $5.00 each.
The thermostat I got from the dealer. Somethings I just don't like to go aftermarket with. You were saying yours never gets to midway. I have never had mine read anything but at midway whether around town or on the highway. If the thermostat is correct it should hold the same temperature all of the time.
I went to JTIS and read their write-up and decided I could come up with an easier way to remove the intake manifold. Let me know if you need help.
I will warn you that there was one problem with my aluminum kit. After the car was all assembled and I began road testing the cap on the top was leaking. I examined the seating surface and it wasn't machined. The cast marks from the mold were still there. I got a block of wood and some 220 grit paper and and sanded it flat. I still did not trust the O-Ring in the cap to seal so I install my original cap that had a flat gasket.
I wish you good wrenching, and if I can be of help just ask.

Vernon Robinson
1997 XK8
1998 XJ8