The normally aspirated engine just has the # 1 pump and the main power fuse is after the relay and not before . note the control circuit fuse under the rear seat foot area .

You can place your finger on the relay and feel the relay click once to turn on then click a 2nd time after 5 seconds to turn back off . This is commanded by the key in the on position before start position . The relay will click a 3rd time back on after the ECU sees engine rotation by the Crankshaft sensor . This is a crash / safety design that can throw you off in troubleshooting .

Just because the relay clicks as it's getting it's command the relays power contacts can be bad , you can swap with like numbered relays .

4 volts is not enough .

You can remove the B+ battery terminal and place a heavy jumper wire with common blade terminal ends so not to arc the relay sockets in it's holder . Then reconnect the battery . This will be hot at all times so it will drain your battery . This bypasses all the relay control circuits and turns the pump on .

The Engine ECU will not work with less then 11.5 volts and this is where the fuel pump relay control comes from .

Any questions . just ask and someone will assist you .

A note of caution is that some relays are marked 30 / 87 ( or 86 ? ) and others are marked 3 / 5 as the larger power sockets . To double check your on the correct sockets you want the Brown / Blue wire for the # 1 pump . Your fuse / relay box is different then mine so it may be hard to verify the wire color .

 

Thanks Penelope it is the fuel pump. Bypassed the relay and still nothing. Will pull the tank tomorrow. I also might be getting this Jaguar. It’s 1 year older and the interior is in better condition. Also it still has the original phone in it. It’s been disconnected but all of the parts at there. I’ll get pictures of the car tomorrow. Also since I’m rebuilding the 1999 engine could I just drop it in the 98? Cause this 98 is just in better condition. I’m not going to part out the 99 just swap engine/transmission. Looks like I’ve been bitten by this jag bug.

 

The connector can overheat as the pump fails and did you check the fuse Crankshaft after the relay , pump ground wire on the side of the battery ? The relay is recommended to be replaced as new when changing the pump .

The AJ26 and 27 engine is not as simple as dropping one in and others would be better advice on the mater . The 26 may have already been swapped with a 27 as the 26 has no steel piston sleeves and had compression issues .

There are post on tips and shortcuts on pump replacement .

Do the xmission Transgo pressure regulator mod .

 

I checked all of the fuses in the car. The only one blown was the license plate bulb fuse a 5A. Other than that nothing else was blown.

 

OK. So the fuel pump is in. Not fun BTW. Now I have another problem. The car starts and runs for a second then shuts off. My brother says it goes into start mode but doesn’t go into run mode. It just shuts off like when you turn the car off. I didn’t have my code reader. So I don’t know if it has codes or not. I’ll check other threads that describe this problem. But any help is greatly appreciated. I also dread the day my other xj8 needs a fuel pump.

 

So apparently the 98 Jags needs the air cleaner hose on or it will not run. Good to know. And I’ll be getting this car for free because this car is from a divorce and the wife only wanted the car out of spite and just gave it to me and my brother. Just need the guy to pay the registration. And I need to get it smogged.

 

Feel for the # 1 fuel pump relay to click 3 times in the start sequence starting with key out . on - off - on . The 3rd click back on is after the ECU sees engine rotation through the Crankshaft sensor .

 

The Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAFS) is mounted in the air cleaner hose. The MAFS tells the Engine Control Module (ECM) how much air is being inhaled by the engine so it can adjust fueling accordingly.

Cheers,

Don

 

The weird thing is I had the whole air cleaner disconnected including the maf on my 99 and it started and ran just fine. On the 98 the maf was still connected but the tube going to the throttle body was removed and the car started and ran for a second then shut off.

 

Off the top of my head, I think the explanation would be that with the MAF disconnected, the ECM falls back to a default fuel map and can keep the engine running, if not optimally.

With the MAF connected but no air being inhaled through it, the ECM is receiving an implausible signal (O grams/second air flow) and reduces fueling to the maximum degree, enleaning the AFR to the point the engine dies because there isn't enough fuel in the mixture to support combustion.

Cheers,

Don