1999 Daimler Super V8; S/C problems /questions
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ericjansen (11-02-2017)
#23
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I am in uncharted territory here, so I might oversea something, but my guts say it is dumping boost too, all of it.
So you say the boost valve can come loose, if so, will it be stuck closed, or always open?
And I had a quick look at removing the cover, am I right it can be done in situ, just dump coolant and remove some parts to get to it?
#24
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I'd forgotten there was a tsb on the earlier outlet ducts seals, the updated version have a sealing lip to stop leaks. It could require this #3
As Andy pointed out it's a good thing to check the rotors and valve, but also the gasket, as these can leak also #10
The boost valve is spring loaded if disconnected the butterfly stays open. Don't think I've seen a bypass actuator fail, so it could well be disconnected.
As Andy pointed out it's a good thing to check the rotors and valve, but also the gasket, as these can leak also #10
The boost valve is spring loaded if disconnected the butterfly stays open. Don't think I've seen a bypass actuator fail, so it could well be disconnected.
Last edited by Sean B; 11-02-2017 at 04:13 PM.
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ericjansen (11-02-2017)
#25
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sean is right ! if the butterfly leaver has come a drift from the diaphragm or the diaphragm has failed then indeed there will be no boost .
but as you stated the lever is moving , im wondering if the butterfly is even still attached to the shaft that it screws to ?
there is no need to drain any coolant for this job . as the charge cooler bleeder is the highest point .
and you will only lose about 20-30 ml's of coolant .
so just whip it off and inspect away .
do not turn the key on at any point with the charge cooler bleed pipe off ,
as the IC pump will quickly push coolant out and possibly spill in to the blower .
but as you stated the lever is moving , im wondering if the butterfly is even still attached to the shaft that it screws to ?
there is no need to drain any coolant for this job . as the charge cooler bleeder is the highest point .
and you will only lose about 20-30 ml's of coolant .
so just whip it off and inspect away .
do not turn the key on at any point with the charge cooler bleed pipe off ,
as the IC pump will quickly push coolant out and possibly spill in to the blower .
Last edited by Datsports; 11-02-2017 at 11:24 PM.
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ericjansen (11-02-2017)
#26
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OK, maybe up to something, who knows ..can only thank you all for the advice.
As mentioned, not my car, but I will see the owner this weekend, and discuss the the next step with him.
I guess he will agree, as there is literally no one having a clue here, he was about to buy a new engine already
As mentioned, not my car, but I will see the owner this weekend, and discuss the the next step with him.
I guess he will agree, as there is literally no one having a clue here, he was about to buy a new engine already
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#27
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Update: Spent yesterday afternoon with the owner courting several possible repair shops, and decided we will work with UK guy and his American/Taiwanese business partner, doing a lot of road cars like Mustangs and the like.
Will bring the car in for a final check next week, but basically I am sourcing a rebuilt S/C (plus a million other parts ..).
I saw several companies in the UK and in the US offering replacements, but any suggestion is welcome, and if anyone has a left-over in the garage, let me know, I might be interested
.
Will bring the car in for a final check next week, but basically I am sourcing a rebuilt S/C (plus a million other parts ..).
I saw several companies in the UK and in the US offering replacements, but any suggestion is welcome, and if anyone has a left-over in the garage, let me know, I might be interested
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